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All Original?


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Just thought I'd throw this out. How much would you add to a sticker price (especially the Reattas) if it had "all original" in the sale pitch. This is not to put down the car or anything. But say you picked one up for $5500 (88), how much would you think to add on a car that had over 100k like most do now.

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I don't think "all original" adds anything (unless it is super low mileage), but I think any modifications that are un-original would subtract from the value.<BR>HOWEVER, it depends on what the buyer is looking for. If the buyer wants a stock Reatta that looks like the day it was made,<BR>then they want all original and it might make it sell faster. In that case things like aftermarket wheels (without the original ones available), rear deck wings, and vastly modified sound systems would take a lot of value away. On the other hand, if someone just wants a fun, classy, good looking ride and isn't worried about the modifications (or might do them themselves) then the "normal" going price would probably work.<BR>It all depends on the buyer's intentions for the car. In other words, what has been done to the car might attract a different audience.

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What does ALL ORIGINAL mean to you? From the "get-go" it is probably an incorrect statement. The battery has probably been replaced (we hope the oil has) and almost anything with over 50K will have new tires.<P>I have looked at lots of "PERFECT" cars that were pretty sorry. Talk is cheap and it pays to ask questions and get pictures.<P>I have owned a total of 7 Reattas, and each time I prepared to sell one, I made a complete video of the car. I state the exact condition of the car and even point out any flaws that I know about. This way there are no supprises for either party.

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I have seen very few all original car. They are usually trailer babies with very low mileage. Yes they have original tire, original window stickers and in one case the original plastic wrapping on the interior seats that protected them from the factory.<P>Batteries do wear out and are replaced with exact originals. A 100,000 mile all original would in my estimate not be possible. Just my 2cts. Perhaps best describe as unmodified or unmolested?<P>At 100,000 miles, does an unmolested car make it worth more? Perhaps marginally, but an enthusiast looking for an "as original" would certainly be interested in a low mileage car. <P>For me wider low profile tires would be a plus for me as would be aftermarket transmission coolers and premium speakers.

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I thank you all for your replies. Just wanted to hit on something else too. Not only about general upkeep by the customer, but also on failure rates of some of the equipment. The things that are often overlooked. <BR>I've worked on a number of G-body's with the near ever-present driver's door sag because of the hinges. So far on my Reatta I've replaced a majority of the bulbs (mid mount brake light actually melted its socket), door-jamb switch, gas struts for trunk, hood, (soon glovebox), cruise control servo, ac compressor and line, some relays, coil pack, injector, alternator, headlight switch pod, thermostat, headlight bellcrank, low level sensor for wiper tank, water pump, tape deck, and hopefully the whole ABS unit soon. Now I'm not including average replacement items like brake pads, tires, or wiperfluid. You also have to consider things that will brake during the replacement of some items. The water pump I replaced for instance, after torquing the bolts to correct value and runing for 10 miles, the pump ate into the block. So I threw a new reman. engine in. I don't know, I'm probably just rambling, but it gets frustrating when something brakes (no problem), but when you go to fix it the Hollander Interchange lists the same high end GMs that people haven't junked yet(at least in most MD yards). I love the car and how it runs, she's not fast but she turns heads. I'm just wondering when others would call it quits. I hope when I'm finished she's better than stock ever was.<p>[ 02-05-2002: Message edited by: rsgrad ]

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Engine had not been running right after I had replaced the coil pack, noticed it developed a taste for oil, suspected it was burning some as I had to keep oiling it between changes at 3k. The water pump was the last straw, after I had installed it, engine got louder. The impeller ran up against the block and started to grove it. The new water pump had failed. Figured the best way was to start over, as the engine had 124000 and ran like crap. Only thing left on the car to fix is the ABS and this should be the end of the journey for the repair phase and then on to fun.

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