arnulfo de l.a.
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Posts posted by arnulfo de l.a.
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Larry you might want to give Ruben a call the man whose number i gave you. He may have a good original one that just needs rodding out. If. You do go that route make sure you tell him you want a refund if you are told by radiator shop that its not salvageable. Personally i don't think that the aftermarket ones work as good as a original.
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Daves small HEI. Uses the original distributor and works flawlessly. Price on par or less than the aftermarket Hei’s and most importantly HE STANDS BEHIND HIS WORK .
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Based on the tangs shown on the switch, it looks like you may be able to open up the switch and fix it yourself. Just be VERY CAREFUL when prying back the tangs. DO NOT leverage with whatever tool you use against the plastic. They tend to break easily.Oxidation and old grease are the main culprits that cause these switches to malfunction. A good cleaning and its good as new. Not a very difficult task.
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16 hours ago, Ckerch said:
One of the old washer/seal (whatever it is called) is still in decent shape and is 1/8 inch thick. When I looked on McMaster Carr the smallest sheet at that thickness was 6X6 for $104....ouch! There are some Peek washers out there that I might look at it if shipping isn't crazy.
Like Tom suggested, I going to try find a felt type washer or something close to that as another option.
From what I can find, this part is only used on GEN 1 because I think they changed the center link ball joints ends. I believe in 1966, GM went with a rubber boot and zerk fitting like that used on the tie rods. That might be way I can't locate the replacement part
Carl
Yea not cheap. Its amazing stuff, will last a lifetime.
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Get some PEEK and make your own. I think you can get sheets of it in various thickness from McMASTER CARR
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37 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:
In one respect, on the main bearings, you might put the bearings in, fully seat them, dry them of oil, then install the main caps dry with the Plastigauge. Then remove the caps and check the width of the squish of the Plastigauge for the bearing clearance. You can do all of the mains this way, then remove the crank and lube all of the bearings and install them for good.
On those lubed main bearings, then rotate the crank to bring the rod journals up for installation. Dry both bearings, install the rod caps, remove the rod cap and check for squish, then oil everything and put it back together on that journal. Repeat with the other rod pairs. When done, re-check for ease of turning.
It might be a bit geeky, but doing this totally dry might result in just a hair wider clearances, but still well within specs. But whether the block or rod size bearings are oiled or not, still a good way to measure things other than use an inside micrometer and a normal micrometer (and related math, as in prior times).
Enjoy!
NTX5467
What is considered more accurate plastigage or micrometer? What do professional engine builders use?
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15 hours ago, JZRIV said:
Would not use rope. The "One-piece" rear main seal in this link is what I would use. https://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml
Also if you haven't already, plastigage your rod and main bearings and record readings for a baseline. Yes it will take time but if you have have a problem when engine is started, you'll have confidence bearing clearances are not the issue.
Should this be done before or after seal install or both before and after?
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10 minutes ago, gungeey said:
People tend to have their own way. Again, at mock up, I put an oil smear on upper bearing (the block side), the cap side stays dry for the plastigage.
Then the crank is removed, assembly lube applied and crank again installed. I use the engine crane to cradle the crank into the block, too. No banging.
That is one good looking crank! Is it new or refurbished? The groove in the mains is new to me. Looks like a good idea.
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NXT! Thank you for all the VALUABLE info you provide. Much appreciated!
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3 hours ago, EmTee said:
Check the push rods in your engine and buy the corresponding lifters. I believe early engines lubricated the valvetrain via the rocker shaft. At some point a change was made and oil was sent up from the lifters through hollow push rods.
I believe buick started oiling through the push rods when the 455 came out in 1971. The solid push rods are the correct ones for your 430 assuming you are using the original rockers.
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Manual is no longer available
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9 hours ago, RivNut said:
I don’t know if you’re trying to degree your OE cams to compare them to aftermarket cams, but if you are, then you need to realize that the nailhead cams are measured at 0.002 rather than 0.005 or 0.050.
Here’s a chart that shows the 401/425 cams. This is a reprint of the information that Denny Manner supplied tot the ROA for printing in the Riview some time ago. It is reprinted in the Team Buick website.
Thats exactly what im trying to do but with a 430 and 455 cam. Thanks for posting the nailhead chart!
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Thanks John!
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Great info John ! I just finished up degreeing a camshaft from a 430 buick engine. It is the original camshaft . Trying to figure out amount of advance ,if any, the cam has. With the info you provided im assuming i can subtract CL from LSA to get advance value.First I need to figure out what the LSA is. Still learning ! Thanks
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15 hours ago, XframeFX said:
"Straight Up". So, that's it. Degree'ing a camshaft will tell you if it has built-in advance or not.
Do you have the Cam-Card for 'said' camshaft? it may or may not indicate advance. If it doesn't, look at .050" data. Are Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) and CL to to intake the same? If so, likely 0° advance but some Cam-Cards are inconsistent and no way of knowing without doing the degree procedure.
No other way to tell unless you have before/after "in-the-seat-of-your-pants" feel. I have a DynaSlow. No seat in my pants feel, regardless.
John lobe separation angel ( LSA ) is measured in camshaft degrees and cannot be changed. Its ground into the cam. Intake centerline angel( CL ) is measured in crankshaft degrees relative to the crankshaft being at top dead center. Intake centerline angel can be changed by removing the camshaft and rotating for either more advance or retard.
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Follow instructions ? What instructions did you send ? The answer is NONE. You put a second hand vacuum advance, a poorly hacked advance stop, a module that did not work with twelve volts knowing full well that i wanted to eliminate the resistor and points. On top of all that you installed the rotor wrong which i corrected. Never once did you ever mention that the module would require 9v. Had you articulated that I would have made it known to you that would not be satisfactory. I paid you $390 for a job that was junk right out the box. But putting all that aside , the worst part besides your shoddy work is that YOU DO NOT STAND BEHIND YOUR WORK. Had you offered to make it right I would be telling everyone that you are a straight shooter and someone solid to do business with. It is best for you not to respond to anything I may post in regards to anything i may be giving away or any services that I may be seeking. If you insist on doing so know that I will out you for the thief that you are.
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Are you trying to be funny? After you ripped me off for over $350 on the shoddy distributor conversion ? You need to sober up or get off the drugs
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ONLY if you own a 1968 and dont have one. NOT for resale. First “ill take it “ gets it
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21 hours ago, Bloo said:
Not install a one wire alternator. The idiot light is another wire.
One wire alternators are a heavily compromised design intended for tractors where no one would care about their shortcomings. I don't consider internal regulated GM alternators of any sort an upgrade, but if you must, then buy a standard GM 10si or 12si internally regulated alternator instead of the "one wire alternator" and hook the idiot light wire up to the idiot light pin on the new alternator. Done. You'll have to extend the wire probably, it is at the regulator location now if you have an external regulator, and would need to reach the alternator.
Like the rest of the car, the electrical systems in our rivi were well built . The wire sizes used through out have plenty of circular mil area for the tasks at hand. The original alternators are superior to any big box parts store hands down regardless of the advertised amp capacity. You dont need 100 amps unless you are running some type of outrageous sound system. For a trouble free electrical system the entire system needs to be up to par. That does not mean all new wiring, connectors ,etc. It means no frayed wires, no loose connections, no oxidation at connection points, clean light sockets , accessible relay contact points cleaned. If all those potential issues are addressed you will have a perfectly functioning electrical system. ANY weak points in the system will tax ANY alternator,relays and voltage regulator.
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12 hours ago, RivNut said:
Until I sold it, I had 3” trim rings on the Buick Rally wheels that I had on my 94 Roadmaster Estate wagon. (Sold the car, kept the rings - to be used again!)
Not saying you cant get a 3” ring on the wheels. You wont have that same deep look that the additional 1” widening gives as illustrated in the pic of the black rivi. If you could find the original post to the black gs you will see that the owner of the car stated that he had the wheels widened by 1” .
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On 1/3/2024 at 3:57 PM, RivNut said:
Here’s a picture f the car to which I referred. 3 inch stainless trim rings and the 66 - 70 center caps. These wheels are painted the 65 color.
This could be done with the 895 wheels you found and some 1/4” spacers.
You would need to widen the wheel by 1” to get that deep look. A shalllower ring will fit without widening but will not look as deep.
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John! Thanks for that man, great job. I respect your improvising skills, very impressive.Surprised to see no overlap. Should make for a smooth idling engine. Wonder if your thumping issue is being caused by a weak cylinder or possibly an out of balance rotating assembly. I have also wondered if torque converters are balanced. When they are full of fluid that makes for alot of rotating mass. Could it be that the fluid acts as a dynamic balancer?Hope you get it figured out.
NXT, the pistons sat .040 in the hole and he used a .050 compressed gasket for a total of .090 in the hole. Horrible quench ! Should be between .035- .045 max. He also bored it .030 over and the damage from detonation would take a minimum of another .030 for a total of .060 overbore. Even if a sonic test showed the cylinder walls were good to go that big, ( which is a crap shoot due to core shift ) i dont feel comfortable With that much overbore. The only other option would be to resleeve. Not too big on that idea because it would require the decks to be machined and the numbers would be removed. Being its the numbers matching engine to the 68 rivi gs I am not crazy about that idea either. So for now the block will sit in the corner of my garage. Yes I did keep the lifters and push rods separated by cylinder and intake / exhaust valves. I have not yet disassembled the heads to the 455. Want to cc the combustion chambers first.When I do take the heads apart I will also separate from the keepers to the valves.
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4 hours ago, EmTee said:
Hmmm, are you using that camshaft just because you had it available, or is it supposed to be good for some particular reason (e.g., low RPM torque)? Normally I wouldn't consider installation of a smog-era cam in a pre-1970 high compression engine.
I agree on the smog cams not being up to par for a presmog engine. This is the original cam to the 1973 455 . The original 68 gs engine was ruined due to severe detonation. The person that rebuilt it back in the 80’s left an enormous amount of deck clearance . So i sourced a 455 to replace it. One of the reasons i am considering using the original cam is because the cam and lifters are already broken in and in excellent condition.Also i am not looking to build a high performance engine. Ability to run on pump gas and reliability are what is most important to me. I hope to take are few 5k trips on it. I am not dead set on using the cam. I am degreeing the cam so i can make comparisons of whats available in the aftermarket in case i decide to go new. I will make a final decision when the time comes where i have to decide . Im in the beginning stages of the build right now, disassembly ,measuring ,cleaning then off to the machine shop for a sonic test, rebore , assuming the sonic checks out, and a clean up and squaring of the block and head deck surfaces.
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7 hours ago, OldGerman said:
Puh, nice task. I will try to measure the angle I can wiggle the cam sprocket both directions with the crankshaft fixed in TDC position.
Unfortunately, I don‘t have a degree wheel for accurate measurement.
No sir! Sorry for the misunderstanding. No need to go through all the trouble for such an accurate measurement . I was referring to how much movement you got when you moved it side to side with your hand
4 hours ago, XframeFX said:I incremented my tiny harmonic balancer and degree'd my original camshaft. A dry run but turned out being a final. Highly recommend doing this.
Very cool! Care to share some numbers? I would be most interested lobe seperation angle , intake open , intake close and whatever else you would like to share. I am in the process of degreeing the original camshaft to a 1973 455 i am working on for installation into a 1968 rivi gs. Thanks
Check your intake manifold bolts
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Was doing some routine engine cleaning on my 65 and noticed one of the intake manifold bolts was loose. Checked the rest with a socket/ ratchet set and it turns out they were all loose. They took about 3/4 of a turn each to cinch down. Checked the dual carbs and sure enough they were loose too . They took about 1/4 turn each to cinch down. Fired it up , got it up to temp, then turned the brass idle / air bypass screw in about half a turn and leaned out the air mixture adjustment screws about half a turn each. Idles much smoother when at a stop where as before she was a little rough when idling at a stop.Hoping to get a little better milage now too.