38ShortopConv.
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Posts posted by 38ShortopConv.
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37/38 LZ glove box lid clips. The Grand Kids turned up.
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Sorry Im not up with that technology yet. May be someone else will. No suitable camera. I may get the grandkids round to sort it .
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If its any thing like my 38 Zephyr the lid has a spring clip at bottom center to keep it shut, should be same on passenger side. The spring/clips are horseshoe shaped 1/2" wide and tricky to clip in.
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Click is probable in speedo. I would start by unscrewing cable at outlet side of Columbia change/over unit on firewall. Drive it, If click is still there, lube input cable and unit. Drive it. Lube and reconnect outlet cable, Drive, if click is back or still there disconnect cable at back speedo. Drive. You could raise back wheels to do all this test driving. Careful!
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Im no expert on K model V12s but it is just 2 six cylinder engines tied together like the humble LZ V12. or one 6 cylinder engine as far as valve timing goes. Bring number one cylinder up to compression TDC Both valves should be shut.- Valves on rear cylinder, same bank with piston at TDC. should be rocking open. Timing gear marks should be lined up with each other at this stage I would guess.
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Where is Scotty watching the Ford T go by?
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Best to fit PCV valve, prevents any backfires into valley valve chamber. Some carbs. have a vacuum connection, don't need base below carburetor.
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Re edit. Post,, 4400 ohms on secondary and 1240 ohms on primary from memory sounds about average readings .Could still short to ground when hot due to poor insulation. May need new coils. Condensers could short to ground when hot if faulty. The original condensers can leak "insulation oil " if over tightened. Could replace with modern" pig tail" condensers. From 22 Mf.
Re 2nd Post Back, 30 .5 degrees dwell on strong side. Left side points produce spark to front 3 left side and back 3 right side. Right side points do front three right side and back 3 left side. New double rotor and 2 new caps could help.
Early Ford V8 club in Europe may be able to retime your distributor. Enough from me. -
So it sounds like you need to get your distributer timed and synchronized. Call Gerry Richmond. Dwell angle should be 36 Degrees both sides. 30.5 Degrees could overheat an old coil and cause a weak spark. May need a new coil as well. Points need timing and synchronizing on LZ engines as they run a 7 - 1/2 degree lead - lag spark from one bank to other to compensate the 75 Degree block. [ it should be 60 Degrees]. Send distributor away to be timed and synchronized, call Gerry. He has new coils too.
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Looking at everything else you have done and If all connections are tight I would go for a new set of Champion H10 plugs a distributor reset by someone who knows what they are doing along with a new coil, rotor and side terminal plates from Jerry Richman. Also plug wires inside steel conduits need to have good insulation, no cracks. Another source of trouble can be at the ignition switch, check for loose terminal knurled nuts, and worn contacts inside ign. switch. If it still fusses after that the trouble is somewhere else.
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I presume you mean centralizing the clutch plate between flywheel and pressure plate, so gearbox splined input shaft, fits thru splines and into flywheel bearing.
I use an old g/box input shaft. . -
Just my two/pence worth, before you drop the back axle assembly to remove torque tube to inspect for wear on every thing I would pump some grease into u/joint, center bearing and both rear wheel bearing nipples inside front of rear brake backing plates. Also retorque axle taper hub nuts and check overdrive fluid level. This is easier than removing torque tube. Do road test then if vibration persists, drop back end out.
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Hi Chuck, Im a 38 LZ person but as its 18 hours since you asked Ill jump in.
The 37 dash layout looks sensible to me. The odometer trip knob on my 38 is fixed in a slot under dash panel on left or right of center consul. Assume 37 is similar.
Look for a slot under there in the dash metalwork, there may be one each side, the second one would be for clock setting cable.
The experts should jump in now.
.How about a complete pic of whole car, maybe its a Street rod, hence the silence.
Enjoy the project,
Roy -
Im no expert but I have seen them refered to as a "Harmonic" balancer. Smooth out any ripples / vibrations flowing along the crankshaft !?
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Good advise. from 19tom40.
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Good advise. from 19tom40.
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Hi Chuck, Yerr I kinda know where you are coming from. The street rodders do it to the Ford side valve V8s.
Looking at my LZ. bellhousing there does not appear to be enough access to the main oil gallery to drill and tap to fit the oil plug in and divert the oil flow thru. a full flow filter then back into the oil gallery to the main bearings.
Others may chime in.
Roy -
I think those Pertronix 12volt catalog kits for Lincoln Zephyrs is for modern day 2000 Lincoln Zephyrs [new Ford Motor Company built Lincoln cars] completely different, wont fit our 1930-40 Lincoln Zephyrs.
I have just finished building a 12 volt electronic ignition system for our V-12 LZs using small Hall Effect sensors, on test bench now, see how it turns out!
Roy -
You probably have a broken strand on the inner cable, catching on the outer sheath or a break in the sheath causing a snag. I would take complete cable /sheath assembly out and take it to a old speedo repair shop or similar place and get a complete new inner and outer cable assembly built possibly using your old end fittings. Then see what happens! The problem may be inside the OD. unit, oh dear.
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Is this lead Factory lead or repair lead? may be both. Just curious.
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Could be close to normal! But you need to have good head gaskets w/pumps and hoses to start with and a clean radiator.
If you start with a full radiator and give the motor a good drive 10 miles highway speed and stop it will have lost some fluid even drop some coolant on the spot and find its happy level .
Mine settles half way up top outlet holes. On a hot day mine will run 3/4 to hot on temp. gauge. I run thermostats and zero pressure cap. Used to run 4 Lb. cap and higher with recycle bottle but still ended up with same fluid level. I gave up on antifreeze, some of that stuff seems to track thru all sorts of non gaps, keep it in the garage when frosty. I use soluble oil, very small amount, 24 to 1? ratio, get right grade? engineers cutting oil, they are not all the same. The block stays clean the aluminum heads and pump bushes love it, no squealing bushes. I drain my coolant if Im not using car for several weeks, no weeping gaskets, no rusty water. I can drive all day and finish up with the same level I started with. -
LZ. V12 ignition timing is slightly complex as the engine has an uneven pulse between the left and right bank.
The right bank leads by 7- 1/2 degrees and the left bank lags by 7-1/2 degrees, a pull me / push you pulse to compensate for the 75 degree angle of the block. Block should be 60 degrees or 90".
This is why Jack Fleming wrote in "Tech. Tips" Vol. 27 # 5 Sept/Oct. 1994 in TWOTZ that the Ign. timing of No. 4 cyl. [right bank] should be 22-1/2 degrees after No. 1 cyl.[ left bank] and the firing of next cyl. No 9 [ left bank] should be 37-1/2 degrees after No. 4 cyl. and so on. It makes an interesting read.For best results the distributor timing should be set on a workshop Stroboscope or small bench degree disk by an experienced operator.
This method sets ignition timing and scycronises the left and right banks together perfectly.
But its fun trying it yourself! -
Yes, the two large spring loaded flanges are designed to slip around the main shaft boss to smooth out any minor vibrations.
Can be a trap if you have timing marks on flanges! -
Thanks, my harmonic balancer on V12 is doing fine, was just curious, thought the Chevy balancer may have been from a 1930s 6 cyl. Chevy. All good.
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Yes, it seems its just a matter of matching your axle length and number of spur gear teeth with a Ford axle from the thirties. The broken axle that came out of my 38 LZ. and the one I replaced it with both had FORD stamped on them but no part number visible.
Stainless steel "beltline" moulding
in Lincoln - Buy/Sell
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Larry, could be interested. I suppose they are for a sedan? Have sold my sedan, still have conv. coupe, hood mouldings would fit conv? Do you have nose spear, in center above grille? Mine has top attachment leg missing! Do you have a spare mud pan? covers clutch /brake pedals. I did call but got answer phone. Roy