38ShortopConv.
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Posts posted by 38ShortopConv.
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Original L/Z carbs. ran around # 52 main jet size. Most carb problems are quite often ignition.
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If you take spark plugs out motor may rotate when you swing evenly on 2 opposite fan blades. Peep in side of pan with torch.
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Great Caddyshack, well that's the easy bit, now to get it back up.
Hi Beltfed, just got my Columbia going again after 23 years, thanks for speedo drive photos by right rear wheel, had the mount made and welded to axle housing as per original. -
Use a scissor jack to lower wishbone, remove steering arm one end, jiggle and twist pan, turn crank to clear rear interference, its tricky, be aware of oil level float. Raise front of car. Play safe.
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I would replace the condensers first, they are cheaper too.
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Mayby if you jack up the rear chassis[frame] and take some weight off the spring, the axle torque tube and trans will drop down and back.
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I had my 38 tank out back in 1996, cant really remember how, think it must tilt at one end or lift up, say right hand[passenger side] then angle on tank allows you to slide tank to right giving you clearance to lever left end out or vice versa. I got mine out and back in somehow. .
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From memory my 38 rear spring sits almost flat with about a 6 inch top to bottom arch with shackles at 45 degrees. I have my spring out at the moment, considering refitting the Columbia 2 speed again after 15 years under the workshop bench. Are you sure your car body weight is not held up by another stand. Your spring may have been rearched higher and a couple more leaves added. My spring measures 44 3/4 inches across eye to eye and has 14 leaves.
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I guess I should say thanks guys but as far as I can tell, nobody got it right. I talked to Jim Durall, a very knowledgable man on the Columbia, then climbed under the car and found the hole in a most interesting spot. I'll never tell as this must be a closely guarded secret. I will give you a hint. The original from factory speedometer drive cable doesn't go through the firewall.
Beltfed, thanks for the pics and info on speedo drive from rear wheel via PM. The short speedo cable on my 38 LZ travels from the top torque tube connection thru the left frame cross member then runs forward on main left rail then pops up thru a hole into drivers side quarter panel area emerging in the dash area above steering colunm them onto speedo. I ran the vent drain hose out thru the floor shift lever gearbox hole. The vent firewall hole has a nice rubber bush in it. All very tidy.
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Hi Beltfed,
Yes you are a lucky guy with the speedo cable at the rear wheel. You have to get some breaks tho! I have to use the speed changer system with my 38 Columbia back axle, that's ok.
I dont have the fitting on the axle housing to screw the cable into.[ or a hole] Can you tell me is this fitting welded to the axle housing or bolted on like the torque tube speedo cable fitting?
Can you take a picture or two for me and some measurements and post them on here?. I may be able to make one up.
I do have the axle speedo gear, the pinion shaft gear and the double threaded fitting that holds the speedo cable to the pinion shaft and the pinion shaft into the axle gear mesh.
I am also missing a horseshoe shaped retaining clip which helps hold the pinion shaft in place and is fixed to the axle housing with a small slotted head screw.
May be you can help me out with these shapes and sizes?
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Its anyones guess, see if you can figure which side, top or bottom of the motor the noise is coming from then I would remove valley cover, and check for broken valve spring or piece of guide encaged in spring bouncing around or broken horse shoe retainer allowing guide to float about. Could be top off piston or loose rod bearing. I wouldnt run it too much more before opening it up.
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My gosh Keith, if my car looked that good I'd sleep in it. I did some checking and believe my car is a later production '38. I know the car is no where near a judging level, but what would the judges say about the handles if everything else was 'up to snuff'? Anyone?
And sorry for the pic upside down. I take pictures with an iPad and am left handed. Didn't know that if you take a picture left handed, when viewed on the iPad it looks correct. When posted it is inverted. Technology...it's going to get all of us old folks. Just imagine...turn signals instead of sticking your arm out the window!
Beltfed, I think your white dash etc. with chrome handles looks quite smart and refreshing, even upside down. Its your car, drive and enjoy, maybe change after a few thousand miles, you may find it grows on you.
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There are core plugs pressed into each end of the crank rod journals would you believe, they have been known to fall out! reducing oil pressure, you could check those while you are under there. 1940 onward the crank changed. Allan Whelihan parts vender could supply you with a " High Volume " oil pump.
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The ball wishbone will pull down easier if take some weight off the front spring by jacking up the frame at the bumper irons and let the front axle hang down a bit. take care.
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You may have to lever and block the wishbone - ball down about a foot, use a small bottle or scissor jack. Have a look inside pan with torch[flashlight] crankshaft web / journal can catch pan, also pull up and tie oil float. You can turn crank at front pulley, may need to remove spark plugs. Good luck.
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You don't need to remove the wishbone from the front axle but you may have to lever and block it down from the ball end to give clearance to the pan, also you may need to turn crank around to avoid interference and drop steering tie rod. Good luck.
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Good to know
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What did you use for perch bolts?
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They are out! The 12 ton press didn't do it, the 20 ton press didn't do it, the 40 ton press got one with a lot of heat. The other one was so tight it flatten the threads, so it was drill out on a somewhat large drill press. After we drilled out the section of threads that were trashed, using tons of heat, several BFH's, large punches, more heat, Kroil oil, we got the thing pushed out far enough to see the straight section of the bolt. We cut the top taper off and drove it out the bottom.
Please don't call me if you need to do this job! I don't ever want to take on this job again. Four men, six hours, a large machine shop, and two bolts!
Why did you need to take them out?
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Beltfed. Early 38 LZ. had the wide stud pattern drums and 3 fins, not sure about the spirals, don't think so, havnt had mine off for about 15 yrs. then the narrow studs ran for the rest of the yr. If the spiral hubs measure up use em, they may be off 37 LZ, as a lot of the running gear was Ford V8 on the 36/37 Zephyrs.
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John Mc My 38 LZ temp gauge reads cold with the ign. sw. off. As the engine warms up the temp gauge reads hotter. I have seen 39 Ford temp. gauges read hot when the ign. is off!!! When the ign. sw is turned on the gauge reads cold then slowly reads hotter as the engine warms up, I think this system has two senders , one in each head wired in series. These senders could be different to the single sender circuit. You may have one of those in your single sender system giving you a false reading.
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beautyful car...
Yes it is. Thank you.
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LOOK AT THE SMILIN' GRILL AND BUMPER IT'S A HAPPY CAR!
You'd be smiling too if you had a "BODY" like mine: (well-balanced, flowing lines of the era). $95K and I'm yours.
Lincoln Continental v12 missing when hot
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Ballast resistors on a Lincoln Zephyr are mounted behind the dash on the bulkhead on a heat resistant insulator, there are two of them, one for each coil, this position avoids them overheating from the block temperature build up. The hotter the resistor the higher the resistance to current flow resulting in lower voltage at the coil. ' Ohms Law. ' Here endith the lesson.