vintchry
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Posts posted by vintchry
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Isn't it amazing what one can accomplish when it is worked on every day or nearly every day! Nice work Barry, and well presented. Rob
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It also looks like a wrecker body, some were pretty dressed up, tho the tailgate is not normal. Would make a great looking truck done. Rob
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How complicated a piece is it? What vehicle is it off? Northfield Forming, Canal Fulton, OH 330-854-6003 is very good a moulding source. They can fabricate as original, but I am certain it depends on the level of complexity required. Their products are used on many National winners and CCCA cars. Rob
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Don't forget that alot of the buyers are dealers, so yes there are good deals to find, if you know what you are looking at and willing to gamble on what you are buying.Rob
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You had asked about the door rubbers. Seems to me you have 2 door bumpers on each side, some push in and are a block on the outside and others slide in with a chamfered nut inserted in the rubber, there would be a hole in the center of the bumper for a screw and that screw is visible in the door jamb. Steele has both of these styles as does AMS (the old Mitchell Motor Parts) There may also be a strip of rubber at the bottom of your door, behind the door panel that seals the lower edge when shut. Rob
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10wt non detergent oil is the recommended replacement. If yours is working (you can pull up to a stop, press the brake and not have to push in the clutch) then leave it alone. There is a fill on the RH side of the bell housing. Pull the plug on the housing and rotate the convertor until the plug for the convertor shows up. open the plug and see if you have fluid at that point. If it is low, rotate the convertor to the 3 o'clock position. If fluid comes out, leave it alone. Only add enough fluid to allow that to happen. The convertor will turn on its own free of the engine. It is not recommended to replace fluid for the sake of replacement, only if the unit was replaced, or if you have a leak. That (leak) is another issue that you would have to deal with. Rob
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We have found that Glyptol works well, but on cast surfaces only. Glyptol does not seem to adhere to metal surfaces (ie valve covers) or maybe we just had a bad experience, but suggest keeping the glyptol only on cast surfaces. C49 suggested a plated surface, if one has that readily available in their area that is a great suggestion. I will admit I am not crazy about powdercoating internally. Just a feeling, have not tried it on valve covers internally, any thoughts on this or results seen from doing this. Rob
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Mark, Check out part number 40-0070-32 Cushions in the Steele Catalog. I think this is what you need. Tom is right - they are pricey, but very expensive to reproduce and Tim is also right about the fact they are not all the same. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net
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29-30 Chrysler 75, 77. Typical of these is the 2 pc rumble lid, golf bag door is common on bothe models. I agree with auburnseeker, definitely a sport coupe which would have fabric on the top down to the beltline. A dash photo would be nice, as there is probably a Fedco plate on it and would reveal more correct info. Now if you jump into Hupp of the same period there are similarities, but the 2 pc rumble lid is mainly Chrysler.
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Typically the Cutout sticks and drains the battery. Slao make sure you have the correct ground and heavy enough battery cables, single 0 or double 0 would be best. Most truck shops can make those for you.
Rob
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Robert.
Do you have other 31 CD pieces? Which series 32 did you have? Rob
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Curt, What dp you want for all of the extra's? Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net
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I just received a group of mostly mechanical parts for 33 Chrysler CO 6's. Glad to help on what I can. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net
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Actually, the 72 headlamp is larger and has a reflector in the top of the back to show high beam, same shape but larger. Some (72 Sport Roadster) are brass shells and plated, most sedans are steel and painted. Nice bits, just not in need at the present. Rob
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I like West's answer, but I chickened out on my response. Great idea, can we copy for our event? Rob
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According to the Chrysler Master Parts book, CU and CV each had their own steering units, CA and CB use the same. Rob, hattiesgarage@comcast.net
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I am also working on a 33 Conv Sdn, but mine is a CT (8 cyl), Your rear body section appears to have been grafted on. Looking at the rear fenders versus the original fronts, they appear to be a later 30's something. Maybe I have bad eyes, but this does not appear to be original coach building, but later add on. Look at the rear of the top on the Euro coach built photo, the top goes below the belt line tapering to the rear panel, where as his appears to be the original configuration as Chrysler built it. Wonderful car, definitely worth rebuilding and given the option of going back to original or fabricating something more "European" as the owner wishes. I have had difficulty downloading photos on this sight, but if Portugal wishes to contact me I would be happy to supply photos and possibly patterns and castings as needed.
Rob
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You may find that the synthetic dot 3-4 from Napa will work fine. The problem with silicone is that it will NOT swell the rubber cups and this is actually part of the sealing process. I have used the synthetic fluid and found that it does not take away the paint or discolor if removed in a timely fashion. It certainly will remove paint but not like traditional brake fluid. Some folks have used the silicone and have great success, I unfortunately am not one of them and have found this alternative to work well and produce results that are needed and not remove paint like the standard fluid does.
Rob
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Terry, Liberty Lenses were an aftermarket replacement lens and typically not OE on anything. Rim size and opening (thru the headlight door or rim) are the needed dimensions. Again typically late teens thru early twenties. I have seen them on HCS, Reo and Studebaker, but do not know if they were OEM for those marques. Nice accessory lens for those applications.
Rob
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The front axle looks amazingly like the one on a 26 G70 chassis that I still have here. Frame with axles and some brake hardware available for someone looking to build a speedster. Engine block still there, steering column and linkage, front and rear springs, front axle, rear axle housing.
Rob
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Tracy, Check with George at OlCar Bearing Co. 910.693.3324 Southern Pines NC, Great resource for both seals and bearings especially for earlier cars. Call and leave a message, he always calls back.
Rob
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Tim,
I am working on getting copies of a mat my dad used to sell. They were originally made from reclaimed rubber and did not have a long life span. That said they looked very appropriate for any flat floor automobile. PM me your email and I will forward photos to see if this would be of interest to you.
Rob
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There is a sedan for sale in Hemmings this month. Rob
Car on trailer concers?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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If you want to tow it backward on your open trailer that is almost OK, be sure to get the weight forward and on the tongue of the trailer. NEVER wrap a vehicle on an open trailer, unles it is boat shrink wrap, nothing holds up to the wind whip. You shouldn't be towing a 70MPH anyway, are you aware that trailer tires are rated for 65MPH? and that is if they are new. I will admit it took me a while to accept a lower speed limit towing, but it is much better and safer for all if we ratchet down our tow speeds. IMO, Rob