Larry J

Need new seals for the 3 spd transmission - I asked for help with a source on the Olds technical forum but thought I would include a plea for same here. As always any pointers in the right direction is appreciated. Thanks - Larry Jones

I am looking for a source for a transmission seal kit for a 38 Olds 3 spd transmission. Any help directing me to a source would be much appreciated. The old transmission looks pretty good inside but the seals are all shot. Thanks in advance - Larry Jones

My 38 Olds tank was in pretty sad shape and I couldn't find a replacement so I had gas tank renu repair it. Check out their web site at gastankrenu.com. Not cheap but it sure looks solid sitting on a shelf in my garage. It was a little over $400 to have it done.

Don - Check out the Technical forum under "Source for Phosphoric Acid (Rust Removal) and look for ply33's post. He has a link to electrolysis rust removal on a trailer frame. Pretty interesting. I found an article titled "Electrolytic Rust Removal" by Ted Kinsey under the Tech Tips at stovebolt.com that was very helpful. I used a plastic tub as shown in the picture and cut at 48" piece of black pipe in half to use as an electrode. I cut 2 pieces of 2x4 12 inches long with two notches in one long side to use as a cradle for the pieces of pipe. So in the bottom of the plastic tub I had the 2x4s with the pipe laid in the notches and ran a wire between them. I then ran a wire from the pipe out over the edge of the tub to connect the positive cable from my battery charger. I then filled the tub with 20 gallons of water and added a tablespoon of soda ash per gallon ( I used soda ash from a swimming pool supply house but I think you could probably use baking soda if push comes to shove). Then I suspended the rusty piece over the pipe electrodes (not touching) and attached a wire to it to run over the edge of the tub to be connected to the negative cable on my battery charger. Put the charger on low and let it sit. "Cleaning time for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left overnight." (from Tech Tip article). I'm sure that some of the other guys here have had experience with the process and could offer some tips but my first try worked pretty well. Good luck.

Saw post by ply33 re electrolysis rust removal in the Technical forum so I thought I would try it. Made a tank yesterday and soaked the two piece drive shaft. Worked pretty well - still have some clean up to do and paint but the heavy rust is gone. Pretty easy but man that water gets nasty. Here are couple of pics - one showing the drive shaft pre-soak and then after.

West - the side mount you see in the pic is damaged and is going to take some body work to be "right." If I can dig the other side out of the garage this weekend I will post a pic of it and see what comments I get. My wife's uncle bought the car in 1942 in Oklahoma from an Osage indian who supposedly bought it new. It has really been an experience so far. My goal was to take it to the Olds homecoming in Lansing in 5 years - 3 years left - I might make it. Thanks for the comment.

Sayhonkman - I found a reproduction body manual online and just started removing the bolts that I could. I took a lot of digital pics along the way and grouped small pieces/nuts and bolts in baggies with labels as to what they were. Many bolts/nuts were rusted to the point where they were not removable without damaging them. Some I cleaned up with the wire wheel and others have to be replaced (more replaced than not). Once I got the body loose from the frame I used a home made A-frame (made out of recycled oilfield pipe) and a chain hoist to lift the body off the frame. Then I just rolled the chassis out from under it and lowered the body onto a set of wheel dollies so I could move it around. Hope this helps - just take lots of pics buecasue if you are like me - months later you will be scratching your head saying where did this come from or where does that go. Good luck

Glad to be back in the good old USA from vacation. Found the hand brake cables I need and better yet I found the cable brackets in my garage. That clean up project that is rapidly becoming a necessity. Anyway, here are some pics of the cables in the brackets - before and after. I think I just have three major things to accomplish before the chassis is ready for the body - the steering box, the drive shaft, and engine/transmission. Went to see Crosby, Stills, and Nash in Kansas City - those guys are looking pretty ragged - The average age of the crowd had to be mid to late 50's - Oh yeah - that's my age........

Took the day off to do some work on the Olds. I cleaned up and painted the parking brake cable transfer bar and the front cable. Got the front cable installed and am working on the two rear cables. The rear two cables were shot so I found one on ebay that purportedly was for the car but after receipt I am doubtful. I may have to break down and just buy two new ones. Does anyone know of a supplier other than Kanter for brake cables? Also spent a good part of the day looking for the rear cable brackets - in the garage somewhere but its like a needle in a haystack. I am going to have to find a picture of the brackets.

Here is a pic of the Olds the day I pulled it out of the weeds. Lots of work ahead. Checked with SUR&R on the fuel tank sending unit and they don't have one for this car but assure me that they can rebuild mine despite its very poor condition. I may give them a shot at it.

Looks like a good solid car that will make a sweet ride. I'm cutting my teeth on a 38 Olds and yours is in much better shape starting out. Good luck with the project.

Believe me - she is a saint for putting up with me for 36 years. And if it takes 10 years to finish it so be it - her bark is worse than her bite. Thanks for the tip on SUR&R Elmo39 - I will try them.

Thanks - I saved the old lines when I removed them to use as patterns - worked out pretty well I think. I have the gas line formed as well but am not ready install the tank. I had the gas tank redone, which was a basket case, by a Gas Tank Renu franchisee in Iowa City, Iowa, but have not located a working sending unit. I bought one for a later model GM product and am considering taking parts from the original and trying to make the two into one that works. A project for another day as I will be out of town all this next week. I have a parts car as well - unfortunately, the same parts on both cars seem to always be in similar shape.

If she knew how much money I am spending she would shoot me - even after 36 years of marriage. Her exact words were "if its not done in five years it is going to the dump." She has mellowed some after seeing it without all of the rust. I finished forming the last of the new brake lines today and filled the master cylinder. Numerous leaks but I got them all tightened up and now have brakes.

By the way - I had a 1950 DeSoto for a while when I was in high school. It wasn't a woody but but the fluid drive was kind of neat and it was huge inside. We could load a ton of people in it to go to the drive in. My dad paid $50 for it and we (my brother and I) drove it for several years. Dad finally sold it for $25.

No - the Ghia is not mine. I was fortunate to find a good body guy who is cutting out the rusted floor pans/body panels and welding in new pans and patch panels. The pic was taken in his shop. I am working out of my garage and don't have the equipment to deal with the massive rust issues. Kemps Rod and Custom in Michigan made the floor pans and patch panels for me. The engine is an 8. I am having hardened valve seats put in it so unleaded gasoline won't be a problem. One neat thing about the car is that it has dual side mount spare tires. I think 38 was the last year they were available. Here is a pic of the rolling chassis pre sandblast and epoxy coat. If I can dig up a pic of the car the day I pulled it out of the weeds I will post it as well.

Here is my first attempt at a restoration - just starting the process with this 38. It sat in my wife's uncle's backyard for at least 35 years and it has its share of rust issues. He bought it in 1942. Anyway it had been an education to this point. I am at the point where I need to fill the brake master cylinder and bleed them - hoping that they will hold pressure. The straight eight is in the process of being rebuilt by a friend of a friend. My wife gave me five years to complete it and I am two years into that. I hope that the pics uploaded......

OK - mission accomplished. I removed the lifter closest to the oil pump gear and still no real movement of the camshaft. So I started at the front removing valves and lifters. When I got to the 11th one back (an exhaust valve lifter) the camshaft came out. Now off to the rebuilder to be reground. Good that things were pretty low tech in 1938.

Sorry for the delay in responding - I have been out of town. I appreciate all of the comments and took a closer look at the inside of the engine. Even though I have opened the valves and wired up the lifters I think that my problem is the oil pump gear on the camshaft not clearing the closest lifter. I ordered a valve spring compresser, which should be here on Thursday. My project for the loang weekend is to remove the valves and lifters. I think that will solve my probem as there does not appear to be any kind of retainer or set screw. Thanks again - Larry

Nope - I have removed both the oil pump and distributor as well as the fuel pump. I can't see anything hanging up from the inside.

I am rebuilding a 1938 Olds Touring Sedan and have the 257 stright 8 engine apart. I have removed the head and opened all of the valves with a piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing. I have also wired up the lifters and removed the oil pan. As far as I can tell from the service manual the camshaft should just slide out but it will not. I can get the shaft to move forward about 1/8 inch but no more than that. I have also tried knocking it out from the back side without any success. Any thoughts or trick of the trade? Thanks in advance for any advice. LJ

Actually - as fate would have it - we just got back from Tulsa where we were visiting with my wife's uncle and I mentioned that I had found two wheels. He said "I think I have come of those wheels out in the shed." We looked and he had three of them along with some old Buick wheels of unknown vintage. One is is pretty sad shape but two should clean up with a trip to the sandblaster.

49rocket - that is great news. I think I just need the two. I am doing my first restoration and the car has dual side mounts. I have six but two are so badly rusted that they are not servicable. The remaining four have been sandblasted and painted. Can't wait to get tires on them. This old car sat out in the weather for the past 40 years - I keep telling myself it is the process.

I am looking for 2 servicable steel wheels for my 38 touring sedan resto project. They are 16 x 4.5 - 5/5. If anyone could point me toward a source it would be appreciated.

This is my first restoration and I will be the first to admit that I may be in over my head (two more bolts to get out before I can remove the body from the chasis - both rusted tight). I think that I need to buy some stock in a penetrating oil company. Anyway, can anyone help me with a source of floor and trunk pans or rocker panels for my 38' or should I just count on having them fabricated? I think I could patch the floor pans myself with some trial and error but it would be preferable to replace the pans and toe boards. Thanks in advance. LJ