JonW

Here's a photo of my '79 Mark V. It is all original and in pristine condition. It had 21,000 miles on it when I bought it. It now has 28,000 miles. I drive my cars.

I had the Mark V up on the lift today polishing the wheels. I noticed the white walls were a little grungy, but I didn't want to get it down from the lift to take it outside to scrub the white walls. Plus, it was raining. So I looked at my wash bay supplies and decided to try a few things. Most of them did not work well, but the one that really surprised me was 303 All-Surface Interior Cleaner. I used it and a terry cloth towel to scrub the white walls, and I was blown away by the results. This really isn't marketed as a white wall tire cleaner, and I didn't use a brush, just a terry cloth towel. What a nice surprise!

I'm looking for a set of 215/75-14 narrow (3/8") white wall tires for my 1972 Grand Prix. I gave up on Coker years ago after getting a set of square tires. I've used Diamondback for years and have had good luck except for the recent set of white walls I bought from them. I understand they've had trouble lately with tire balance, which is the problem I'm having. Does anyone know of a good source for quality narrow white wall tires?>

I’m heading down to TX for a car show and am having brake issues on my ‘69 Toronado. My brake lights are stuck on. The fluid in the master cylinder is full. The brakes work fine and they are not applied when the pedal is released. But the brake pedal is sitting low enough that it activates the brake light switch. I can pull up on the brake pedal and the lights go off. When I let go of the brake pedal, it falls down a couple inches or so. There is no resistance, it just flops down. Any thoughts?

Almost all of my cars were originally equipped with bias ply tires. Now most of them are running radials. I'm assuming that a radial tire requires more air pressure than a bias ply. Is there a rule of thumb on how to calcuate the correct PSI of a radial tire based on the bias ply PSI found on the door jamb sticker?

It turns out it was a bad washer on the drain plug. I had no idea it could cause that much of a leak. It was an easy fix, though.

My '63 LeSabre has a 401 nailhead in it. It has always had a minor oil leak, even after being rebuilt. Part of being an old car. While we were on the road, I had the oil changed at a Buick dealership. When we got home, I noticed a massive oil leak. I checked the oil level and it was right at or just a hair above the full line. It has sat since, and when I pulled it out today, there was a lot of oil in the drip pan. I'm taking it to a trusted shop tomorrow. My first thought is to remove the oil filter, dump it out, and drain the oil. Then go back from scratch with the proper amount. Maybe we'll see what the oil leak is when it's on the rack. After dumping the filter and draining the oil, how much should be put in?

I'm looking for a set of good exhaust manifolds for an Olds 371. Anyone have a set they want to sell?

I recently acquired this gorgeous Grand Prix from the original owner. The car is all original and only has 37,000 miles on it. It's a model J, with the optional 455 motor. Only about 5% of model Js were produced with the 455. I had been looking for this kind of Grand Prix for a while, and two non-negotiable items were that it had to have vinyl bucket seats and could not have a vinyl top. Vinyl tops were very popular back then, which made the search harder. I was very pleased to find this outstanding example. The photos were taken for my insurance company when I first got it. It looks even better now that I've detailed it! This one is definitely a keeper.

When I search for the Berryman's B12, all I find is a fuel system cleaner. Is that what you used?

It's the down shift that's the issue. The up shift is fine. My guy says he checked the modulator, back lash for the differential, about everything he could check. His opinion is that the converter is making the switch too abruptly, and he doesn't know how to fix that. I know he's a competent mechanic, but this sort of thing is not his specialty. I'm going to look into the Berryman's.

I have a 1966 LeSabre sport coupe with the 340/2-speed drive train. When I am coasting to a stop, the downshift to 1st gear is very hard. It just slams into 1st. The 1/2 up shift is fine and the car runs well. My mechanic is competent, but he is not an expert on switch pitch converters. Any thoughts?

The guy that works on my cars called. I had complained to him about the transmission slamming down into first gear when rolling to a stop. He says it's the converter, which is a switch pitch. He wants to replace it with a TH 350. I would like to keep the drivetrain stock, and not spend the money. Do I have any options for the existing converter?

Can someone tell me what the coolant capacity is of a 1960 Catalina with a 389, standard cooling, no a/c? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I want to totally flush and drain my cooling system. Thanks!

Can someone tell me where the ID numbers for the carb and rear end are located on a 1970 Buick GS?

I've added vintage air, cruise control and disc brakes. The generator has been converted to an alternator (but still looks like a generator). Other than that, it is stock. I really haven't taken many pictures of it, I've been so busy. But here are a couple. This is one of the dash taken by the seller I bought the car from. The other one is one that I took at the same car show. My wife found this baby seat for me on eBay. It fits with the car perfectly.

Here's a photo of my 1960 Catalina that I took at a car show yesterday. It amazed me the amount of attention it got and how many photos were taken. It has 49,000 actual miles on it and has mostly original paint and original interior except for the front seat having the lower cushion recovered. The car drives out amazingly well and is a pleasure to drive.

My 1970 Buick GS has factory air. The selector switch (selects a/c, heat, defrost, etc) is inop. I bought a replacement switch and it also was inop. I guess the vacuum membrane in them deteriorates over time. I don't drive the car in the winter, so I don't need heat or defrost. Is there a way to lock the system in a/c mode so that air comes out the dash vents?

When my 1960 Pontiac Catalina with 398 2 bbl cold starts, it fires up right away, but the longer it idles, the higher the high idle goes. It must go to 3000 RPM or more, and it won't kick off until the engine warms up. In the photo below, is the screw indicated with the arrow the high idle speed screw? Which screw is the regular idle adjustment screw?

I'm looking for a set of trim rings for OEM Road Wheels on a 1970 Chrysler 300. Must be very nice. Please message me if you have any info.

Anyone have photos of a correct trunk for a '66 LeSabre? I'm particularly interested in what spatter paint to use and how the trunk mat fits around the jack hold-down spring. TIA.

Here are a couple of photos of my 1973 Pontiac GTO that I acquired almost two years ago. I bought it from the original owner who special-ordered it new. Except for the gauges that he installed, it is an original car. It still had the original tires on it when I received it. I replaced them with correct repro tires. The best part? It only has 7070 actual miles on it. It has so many options that it has two window stickers, yet did not come with air conditioning or power steering. Of the 4806 GTOs built in '73, this is one of only about 1000 with a 4-speed transmission. The color scheme is also unusual. Needless to say, I'm very proud to be the caretaker of this exceptional automobile.

I have a 1949 Olds sedan delivery. As the photo shows, it is green with yellow wheels. Are the yellow wheels correct? I would have thought they would have been either black or body color.

I don't have any history on the car at all.

I’m assuming you’re talking about the longitudinal frame rails. Are the rails that run off the frame to the rocker panels off limits?