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Franklin31

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Posts posted by Franklin31

    Waiting on a Title for my Franklin

    in Franklin

    Posted

    Hope it is not coming from Ga. They don't have titles for old cars there unless the owner requests one--I had to wait 6 months after buying a 34 Plymouth PE coupe 40 years ago; but finally got it. and the car has been in my basement since 40 years ago--Why do I do such as that !! good luck.

    RUBBER MATT

    in Franklin

    Posted

    If you have a front floor matt for "1935-36 Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth" I would be interested; have one in a 1931 Franklin and it is almost perfect--has been in it probably for 50-60 years; I thought it was original but found those cast markings on it.

    Dipstick query

    in Franklin

    Posted

    May be one for asking this trivial query, BUT, my dipstick (151) on the exterior of the crankcase is a continuation of the stick: 1/4" diameter and 2" long. I have seen thicker ones in photos as if they have wood or bakelite around them to be thicker and longer. What should this be on a 1931; it doesn't look exactly correct as it is. Sorry, haven't been to a Trek. Tks~~~ Richard

    Need a rear axle seal for series 14

    in Franklin

    Posted

    More data from Club Q&A ( you are a member aren't you) "

    QUESTION/ANSWER LATE SERIES 13, 14, 15 REAR WHEEL BEARINGS AND SEALSArnie,

    Timken cup 332, and Timken cone 347 are the correct rear axle wheel bearings used from sometime in late 1929 Series 135-137, Series 14, 15, 16 (not sure about later than that). Two bearings per side and they are getting VERY expensive, so take good care of them !!!!!

    Those wheel bearings (and the other rear axle bearings), are still available, but getting tough to find. They are not stocked in regional warehouses, so many auto parts stores don't have them listed in their computers. They may tell you they don't exist because they don't want to do alot of digging. They do exist, but you may have to look in the yellow pages for a bearing supply house, transmission repair shop, or try RockAuto Parts Catalog .

    All the rear axle seals are still available too. Here are the numbers.

    Late series 13 - 15.

    Outer wheel bearing seal, Chicago Rawhide CR 24881 or, National #472029

    Inner wheel bearing seal, Chicago Rawhide CR15214, or National #473440

    Pinion flange seal, CR13430

    Paul Fitz"

    Need a rear axle seal for series 14

    in Franklin

    Posted

    FYI: here is info from Club tech Q&A; next type the numbers into ebay or Google search. "

    Dear Tom:I am not sure when the change was made to the double roller bearing on the Franklin rear axle, but sometime during the Series l5 perhaps. I know that the later, double roller set-up used an grease/oil seal just inboard of the inside roller brg, but the earlier single roller type has a felt seal that is near the differential and is impossible to replace without dismantling the differential--a large job and unnecessary if I can fit a seal to the axle tube just inside of the roller brg. I thnk that the slight amount of welding bead that obstructs the axle tube just inside of the machined outer wheel brg. housing ( the part that is welded to the axle tube) can be safely ground away without seriously weakening the joint. The i.d. of the tube is very close to 1.933 or about 1 l5/16ths" and the o.d. of the axle shaft is l.523"--within the range of a 1 1/2" i.d. oil seal. The alternative is to fit a new felt seal into the deep groove in the wheel brg "cone" retainer--the part that retains the outer race or "cone" of the roller brg. Much of the felt seal's housing would have to be machined away in order to fit a conventional oil seal and I'm not entirely sure there is enough material if the piece is machined to the required 3" o.d. of a 2 1/2 i.d. x 3" o.d. seal. I could probably fit an o-ring into the groove that originally held the felt seal. However, to really have a good seal, I think the oil seal should be inboard of the roller brg., as in the case of modern automotive practice. One final thought: fitting a vent to the differential's sheet metal cover to relieve the inevitable pressure build-up as the axle warms up during operation. Obviously, this should be at the top and "looped" so as to prevent the ingress of water, etc. All of this effort is to keep gear oil and wheel brg. grease off of those new brake linings. With all due respect to Franklin's engineering dept., I believetha the original method an be improved upon. Aura Vincit and happy holidays!

    Ed Joy, Coeur d'Alene, IdahoANSWER: rear wheel bearing seal arrangement for Series 14 using a single TimkinEd -

    I have always machined the outer wheel bearing retainer for a lip seal and done away with the felt seal. My reasoning has always been that with the double rollers well packed with modern grease, it would be difficult for gear lube to penetrate the rollers and if it could, or did, the outer drum seal would stop it. I have used a Chicago Rawhide seal #24881 ( 2.500 shaft, 3.189 bore, .438 width, heavy duty lip) This seal requires machining of the bearing retainer felt groove away and out to 3.189" There is enough meat to accomplish this safely. On my own 153 and on Richard Harry's 153, there have been zero leakage problems in almost 30,000 miles combined. I have had my rear drums off recently as well - no leaks, all doing fine.

    I also have a seal number that I have marked as an outer axle housing seal, but I believe it fits the '32 - '34 Airman. It is CR#15230 and fits the 1.500" axle shaft surface. I think the O.D. is too big for your housing, however. Maybe this is a V/12 seal? I have to start taking better notes as my 'experiences' turn into distant memories.

    I've usually put inner seals on the Ser. 14 and earlier - next to the differential. This seal is a CR 13433 and keeps everything out of the axle housings. As you say, they're a pain to install. We do it when we have the differential out for a gear swap, or overhaul.

    You are correct in your awareness of the need for a vent. I have used lots of variations...."

    Help wanted taking sidedraft pistons off

    in Franklin

    Posted · Edited by Franklin31
    photo (see edit history)

    post-51030-143142062461_thumb.jpgHave to go into the engine again {don't ask--lol}; anyway, want to take the pistons off the rod ends by taking out the piston pin. I am perplexed on how to remove, bend, etc the locking tab to put a 9/16 socket on the pinch bolt( this with rods on crank ). Haven't made any progress thus far. It is bad enough working up on the inside piston at TDC but working thru a mirror is even worse; I always move the opposite way. The locking tab is not readily bendable--fairly thick. It may rotate so as to turn the bolt some?? Whoever has done this please give me some encouragement. Maybe it is impossible without taking the rods out; prefer not to go that far. Plan to put Chevy 216 CI rings on the original pistons and turning the ring grooves deeper. Don't want to go the new piston, etc method. Anyone having done this type of ring job comment. Tks Richard

    post-51030-143142111947_thumb.jpg

    To add seatbelts or not?

    in Franklin

    Posted

    'Funny' thing about glass: in my '31, all the 1/4" side windows are marked "safety glass", but no marking on the windshield nor separations??; PLATE???? No marking on rear window; but a couple of small separations(bubbles) exist. Don't think they had 1/4" glass but slightly thinner(7'32"?).

    How to Find Who Was Original Owner?

    in Franklin

    Posted · Edited by Franklin31 (see edit history)

    Bill, you are probably the only one on here that has 210 page book written about the restoration of their car--with all the photos, what was done etc. It was driven from AZ. to NY for the Trek. You probably bought it from Lloyd Wilson in Anderson, SC. I would like for you to find out how Charles put an alternator on your car. I look at that book and read some at least twice per week to give me inspiration in my 31 project. You CERTAINLY need that book. Name 'Practical Car Restoration' A guidebook with lessons from a 1930 Franklin Rebuild. McFarland & Co. publishers, www.mcfarlandpub.com Charles' address is: 2809 Rawhide Dr

    Kingman, AZ 86401 would think that Lloyd would have his cell phone since Charles drove it from Caz to SC for him.::::::: here is the book>>>>> McFarland - a leading independent publisher of academic and nonfiction books

    You can read 1/4-1/2 of the book free here>>>>> Practical Car Restoration: A Guidebook With Lessons from a 1930 Franklin Rebuild: III Charles R.Wilmarth: 9780786425112: Amazon.com: Books

    post-51030-14314195221_thumb.jpg

    Radials, 1931 Transcontinent

    in Franklin

    Posted

    What concerns me is the 30.9" diameter and the skinny tread at 4.5"; compare that to 33.4" & 5.6" for Firestone 700x19; haven't calculated but that is probably 500+ RPM difference. Looks like they could make a radial at 32.25" & 5" that is generally 650x19--now that would be excellent & worth $100 diff. But the 700 won't go in fender wells nor in an original tire cover. Alas--alas

    Radials, 1931 Transcontinent

    in Franklin

    Posted

    Thinking that way also but wonder if there is another vendor to consider; Cokers $300 price seems high, but bias is $200. Sure is expensive. I have old tubes in cracked tires that have not leaked any in about 10 years and wonder if they can be used in radials; used to have to get thicker radial tubes? Have you run 'Slime' in tubes??

    Believe Tom has been running Michelin Radials in his.

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