Lapham3
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Posts posted by Lapham3
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Too bad about the damage, but stuff happens especially with aged engines. I've seen the most failures with pistons. I'm not a 'numbers' guy, so I'd use your other engine or another one to build-sleeving is an expensive proposition-good luck, Dan Mpls. Mn.
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I've been using Rockauto when possible for some time with good pricing and short delivery time-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Hi Ted-here in boat country, I've seen a few of the various Buick engines as Gray Marine used them. A number of the heavy, wood Century boats utilized the 401. A boat engine doesn't get to 'coast' so pretty much heavy loads are their operating environment
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I tend to change fuel hoses occasionally and have been ok with the ethanol-FWIW, the fuel injection hoses I've tried have little to no 'give' and have been hard to get on
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I've always liked the 400 as they all have been very reliable for me in many cars over 45 years. I've also sold quite a few over the years to Dynaflow guys for conversion. Nobody has asked me yet if I had a Dynaflow to sell them-
Dan Mpls. Mn. -
Hi there Scott Roberts-you may want to further research using bronze valve guides with the nailhead- do a search at V8Buick.com in the nailhead area for such discussion-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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I've read a number of nailhead articles over the years and his errors are less than most-and keeping track of all the running changes that the manufacturers made thru the model year doesn't make it easier- Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Walked thru French Lake Auto Parts(FLAP)-Annandale Mn. today. They recently added these-one without the drivetrain the other mostly all complete. Both sitting a long time, but there are parts to be had. Northern cars, so probably not so much body parts of use, tho. They are near the 'pad' close to the main building. To those familiar, the rest of the yard is undergoing more rehab as tree cutting, leveling and gravel brought in -mid 60's on Buicks are north of previous locations, with 50's- to mid 60's as they were moved last year. Looks like the later Buicks will shortly be moved with Cads/Olds already moved to the redone area- Dan Mpls. Mn
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Airbrush-I need to this also on mine. About 15 years ago, I had them replaced at a shop and they are now shot again. I had another '66 that I parted that had a decent exhaust system, but find that these mufflers are a few inches shorter. So, you might want to do some measuring and shopping some manufacturer's info to see what matches up-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Some years ago a couple of us looked at a Wildcat for sale here in Minneapolis. The seller was the production manager of a commercial plating company and told us that most of their actual work was similar to that of a painter=extensive prep-required before the plating steps could begin=thus most of the cost. If a guy had the valve covers 'ready' for dip, the cost would be lower. Of course, some are all about extracting the most $ while others bill according to the actual work! Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Mike-your story about the combat vet and rear echelon fella reminds me of what my dad said once before he passed. Of his 'knot' of 8-10 pals he grew up with, while most all served, it happened that he was the only one at 'the point of the spear-New Guinea and Phillipines-'42-45. The combat was not continous, but was very tough and very poor climate and lack of water/supplies. He came home as a sick, skinny, worn out guy. He visited Legion and VFW posts a few times and was pretty angered hearing some of the 'war stories' told at the bar=he could tell almost right away the 'pretenders'. When I got my poor lottery number and was likely heading for Vietnam, while mom wanted me to head for Canada, he mentioned that jungle combat was very tough-especially for a Minnesota boy and to maybe come up with something else as a way to serve. So I enlisted and did 4 years as a 'cold warrior' working US based B-52 bomb/nav avionics and avoided the shorter army service. Dan Mpls. Mn
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Yes, saw the postings on the valve covers thread and see the fuss. He goofed, but I might have too, as he probably had his thoughts a bit scattered lately. Heck, I've never cared for those full length things much anyway and have pulled them out of my cars-or cut them apart. I know, it's the principal of the thing- and a guy that called dibs (I haven't heard that in probably 50 years!)is spun up, but good grief-it's small spuds
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Agree with Darrell, excepting the need to reuse some of the drained oil. ATF is a lube and friction modifier, but has no detergent qualities. Also, there will be plenty of undrained ATF left in the convertor so the 'shock' of complete ATF r+r is not there as with the flush proceedure. Nice to service that 29-30 year old transmission-good luck Dan Mpls. Mn.
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In the 60's Buick offered chrome steel nailhead valve covers as part of a 'dress up' kit from the parts dept=they do look nice and I'm surprised somebody around here hasn't grabbed up a bunch of the OE painted and chromed them up for resale- Dan Mpls. Mn.
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That's right-we are 'popular' these days! Thanks me- Sgt Dan- BSA USAF MNANG Oh-can't count the boy scouts, but I get it confused some with my Air Guard service at the ending of Vietnam war days-not at all the world of the guard/reserves today-they're the major components of the triad now
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Sorry to hear, Bill. Yes, the engine can come out after the radiator/fan come off and the trans can be unbolted without a lift-of course, you have to get underneath for some of that and exhaust-mounts,ect. I figure you know the origin of the 'cloud' as to coolant or oil. If 100k original, probably has engine needs, but I'd also troubleshoot as much as possible before pulling-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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I am mostly a Pontiac guy and my dad and gramps went for Buicks. I had a '65 Pont GP-421-afb-2.73 gears. Dad had a gold '67 Cat 2dr 3.07 gears. The Buicks had the better 12" brakes-the smaller Pont brakes/rear end looked more like something from Chev-but my GP would leave the cat at any speed. Dad and I would trade back and forth some and I managed to take out #7 rod bearing on the 430=not a happy deal and well understood these days with the original 430 design 'issues' Anyway, in 1971 the wife tried to take down a telephone pole with the GP and I never found a replacement with condition/price that I would go with-and the Wildcats kept finding me in better condition/price. I much prefer the nailhead but do have a '67- much like dad's. I think the fastback styling appears most distinctive on the '67-8, but comparison shows it the same angle as the '65-6 2dr cats
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It might be the dual quad bracket for that price. Most 'out there' are the '66 car bracket tho-they will clear the alum covers, but not a perfect fit for 2x4 Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Base interior with non-tilt wheel and crank windows..otherwise lots of options. Paint appears decent and a nice job done underhood. Pics of car's bottom would have been good to see. Probably aquirred from an estate for not too much and the painting and detailing trying to flip for larger $ than likely to get-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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I've done a number of these and just use plain old 'rubber cement' (in the bottle with the brush cap)=does just fine for years and years-good luck Dan Mpls. Mn.
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James-I think a fair amount of these parts survive as others were in the 'gonna do some that day' mindset-for a goodly number, that day hasn't happened yet! Still, getting those guys to part with the goodies will be hard and the $ required will be high-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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When I am first dealing with greasing on a car that I don't know the history, I'll slowly keep pumping in 'regular' grease until either water/old grease comes out-then driving and frequent regreasing of small amounts to keep fresh grease in the contact areas. I lift the car to take load off the necessary joints to get the grease 'all around'. I had an otherwise very good auto instructor back 1970 time frame say that more crap is introduced thru a dirty zerk than is helped by fresh grease and maintained that he never greased his cars and had no great part failure=hard to believe to me and I didn't follow his advice! I've also seen synthetic grease kinda seperate and be runny. Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Most '63 Rivs had the 3.23 gears as this was apparently the 'standard' ratio with Dynaflow cars. '64 to around '67-9 with the 400 trans had 3.07 and later still often ran 2.78 -2.56 gears. There are plenty of exceptions to this as option boxes were checked upon ordering-Dan Mpls. Mn.
Dan Mpls. Mn.
Nailhead rebuilder in Oklahoma / North Texas - 1965 Riviera 401
in Buick Riviera
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Rusty-it can depend a lot as to how the car will be used going forward=racing, ect vs lighter duty cruising, ect. I've pulled down quite a few 401/425 nails and have found broken piston skirts a few times-may or may not have caused other damage,- a rocking/slapping piston and noise that causes an old Buick to be parked. If you're going to tear down the engine to do rings, I would carefully evaluate and measure all. I've been a some surprised with finding a bit much bore wear on even fairly low mile engines=too much often to get by with just rings. Sticky valves are not uncommon, and also stuck on a sitting engine that need to be freed up to turn it over. Good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn