Lapham3
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Posts posted by Lapham3
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Al this goofyness reminds me of a time 40 years ago when I took my '71 LeMans into a 'muffler shop' for R+R of the dual exhaust. When I came back to pick up the car saw that the shop had installed 2" on one side and 2 1/4"=the owner thought that was all fine and dandy. I thought different. Finally he agreed to order up the 2 1/4" that he didn't have initially and it all got done right a few days later.
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Got my issue yesterday and reading the story of this Montana yard now crushed out and closed. Pete indicates their past rep for higher pricing and I'd agree and add that it seemed to me to be WAY higher pricing. They are now added to the long list of yards gone away in recent years. I don't think any can continue unless their business includes a healthy late model inventory-the specialty 'old car' customers are too few to pay the bills. As the pics show the crushed cars and their scrap value, it does seem to me represent a rather large gap between the yards past parts prices and that scrap value tho-probably more to the story. Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Good info. I have a '73 Catalina with the variable ratio with the smaller steering wheel sure do make for more enjoyable driving. Seems they were first available about '69? I think adding that gear would be a plus for our earlier cars-Dan Mpls. Mn.
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A 12 point socket -or a 12 point open end will manage it, too
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I generally hit FLAP a couple times/year. There are always new arrivals to see. Floyd's sons run the operation in recent years, but he's been around. The guys 'at the counter' often price a bit high. I hope it's good weather for everybody and the ground dries up some more. In past years they have done an August shutdown to do improvements.
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I also have a mix of points and various 'electronic'. Seems to me there are/were several generations of the Pertronix. I recall installing a couple years ago that were magnet triggered and the distributers needed end play to be pretty correct otherwise the magnets could get 'scrubbed off'. Speaking of Lucas-the wife's old MG finally got the Crane unit a couple years ago-the 'prince of darkness' took many years to do his thing with her electrics. Dan Mpls. Mn.
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We had the first wildcat from new '67-73 and it always had this smell/aroma. The one I have now is a dry western car that I've had for the last 15-20 years. I can only think of it as something with the carpet padding, but wouldn't think it's a different material from my '65-6 cars
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Maybe a bit of a silly question-but as I 'awakened' my cat from it's winter nap the other day and opened the door, that familiar smell hit me that always takes me back to when my dad had his '67 from new. It's not a bad smell, but seems different than any other. I have other years cats-rivs-225 and none are as this is. I'm not aware of any particular '67 factory build materials that would cause this-anybody else notice similar? Dan Mpls. Mn.
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It has been surmised that Pontiac factory production numbers concerning GTOs and Tempest/LeMans were apparently in error as very few of the later survive vs zillions of GTOs. Might it also be difficult to determine how many GS Rivs are left?!? -silly Dan in Mpls.
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My dad was set to trade in his '65 Catalina for a '67 Riv. As it came down to it, the Riv's trunk was deemed to be too small for the travel luggage, ect and he went with a Wildcat with a trunk more sized as the Pontiac. Everybody loved the Riv styling, but the fastback cat coupe was pretty good, too. Years later, I picked up a '66 as I prefer the nailhead.
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I recall in the 60's taking out a couple of fan shrouds as the mount broke and fan ate it. Sometimes, A loose driveline component will give a bit of a driveshaft clang rather than thunk. Another possibility is too much backlash in with the ring/pinion-also a shot/loose control arm bushing-good luck
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I lay down 6 mil plastic before pouring concrete and it eliminates the floor moisture problem. When I drive the cars I go far enought to fully warm them up and cook out any moisture in the mechanicals and make sure the rest of the car is completely dry before being put away.
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I had my 16k mile 70 1/2 Z-28 stolen 40 years ago. Since then I don't leave my 'good stuff' where vulnerable and never allow the 'interested' to follow me to where the car may be garaged. A few years ago a career criminal got into one of my alarmed buildings. He's back in the state prison-no maybe has been early released for good behavior or for it being a non violent crime-and he's out doing his usual activites.
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I recall a Buick service supplement booklet covering the '65 headlight 'system'. Maybe that is online somewhere and would help? good luck-Dan Mpls. MN.
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I seem to recall that the 4gc had a bit more flow than the afb and that with the 4gc two float bowls-one was for primary and one for secondary. The afb has one for a primary and secondary and the 2nd bowl for the other primary/secondary. The result was that a 'gramps' driven 4gc car where the secondaries never/rarely opened, got a gunked up bowl/float
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I also use end intake locations, but with longer washered bolts for the chain and DO NOT remove the intake to do this-in fact I like the intake to back up the mounting locations on the heads-good luck! Dan Mpls. Mn.
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With the heavy equiptment of today, I think they can do a better job of prep for pavement on any new road. On existing old roads too often they just add more layers to a poor base-they know better, but a quick band aid rather than the higher cost. Occasionally, all is dug out and it's done right. It seems that some of todays asphalt is short of oils/tar to hold up long term. Here in Minnesota, I've noticed that some shale and other porous rock ends up in the concrete mix-this freezes/expands and 'pops' in winter.
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Hi there-I have some of the 'vintage' AM-FM and AM-FM stereo radios in 60's Buicks. IMO-those early Delcos were'nt all that super duper in a number of ways. I'd probably do the modern 'guts' in my old chassis-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.
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It's been a number of years since visiting rural Carrier and recall Ken as a really nice fella, and can really understand moving from there to Arkansas. I can also understand why another yard is going away and have seen many many go over the last 15 years. Good luck and enjoy retirement!
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Sorry to read this. For me-the 'word' or evidence('tracks') of a 'rebuild' or substantial recent work has been a red flag. I lose count as to how many of these situations I've seen or been aware of. Too bad, but that seems to be reality....another reason I've never to much bought into the old 'you get what you pay for' Dan Mpls. Mn.
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A very good guy-and his Denver house full of parts and his cars there as well as the other cars out by Golden=unforgetable! Dan Mpls. Mn.
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Sounds about right, Tom. I know I didn't want it sitting on my chest too long when dropping one out! Dan Mpls. Mn.
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I ran into what Tom relates in a '66 Electra that had a '62 401 installed. That said, I don't fuss too much over non original components in the old cars=it's common enough to find that an engine has been changed. I went thru auto school in '69-'70 when these cars were on the road as daily drivers and there was plenty of fixin to be done-way more than todays cars, but also easier work to do. Sure, I prefer original/unmolested, but mostly knowing that work hasn't been done-repairs often done poorly/wrong! I always look for 'tracks' of that past work-such as the often found studded rear head bolts used for engine grounds that are mislocated, ect-good luck! Dan Mpls. Mn.
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You could source a later variable ratio box or have yours rebuilt with the variable 'guts'. Lares seems to know what they're doing and has had a good rep-good luck
63' Water Pump Replacement +alpha
in Buick Riviera
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Years ago on a road trip I had to replace the water pump on my '66 cat w/AC. I got the other bracket mounting bolts out or somewhat loose and then was able to lever it over just enough with the tire iron to get the pump to clear-good luck!