Conroy

What does it feel like if the bushings are bad. I have a "klunky" feeling coming from the rear end when I hit a bump a certain way, or turn into a drive going over the ridge along the curb. The shocks are fairly new. I don't know what else it could be, unless the bushings.

Nick, give me a day or two to look in my garage, but I think I have a pretty good complete set. I'll get back to you. Steve

I received the new floor mats from Cars. Overall, I am very happy with the look and quality. They are a VERY black vinyl mat with a VERY white tri-shield emblem. The moulding is very sharp and crisp. My only concern is that they are somewhat stiff, as opposed to being made from rubber, or a more plyable vinyl. The problem I see is that in shipping, they arrived with a couple of stubborn kinks in one of the mats due to the stiff vinyl having a long "memory". I have them lying on the basement floor to wait for it to lay out. They really look nice, however. It will be 65 degrees here tomorrow. I will be spending time getting the car ready to roll out for spring.

I just noticed that CARS has reproduction floor mats available again. I just ordered a set for my 64 Riviera. I kicked myself for waiting too long before when they used to have them available. I hope I don't find out they are sold out again. It has been impossible to find reproductions. I thought some of you might like to know.

I also suspended my hood from the garage rafters. I used a rope threaded through the catch hole for the latch. I positioned the rope on the rafter just slightly ahead of the hood so the hood would not slide back on the hinges when I unbolted it. It is critical that you mark the location of the hood hinges before removal. It takes two people to remove the hood safely.

Thanks guys. Those are good ideas. I have wondered if I might have over tightened the clamps, deforming the tubing but I thought I was being pretty careful not to. I guess it wouldn't hurt to take them off and check it out.

I'm really getting frustrated. Last year I completely detailed my engine compartment. Incuding replacing all the hoses and hose clamps. I have had an agravating leak on the heater hoses ever since. The connection from the heat cut-off valve to the heater core and both connections at the heater core were a problem. It has come and gone, most of the time just an annoying drip. I used correct size and type hoses from Advanced Auto Parts, along with correct tower type hose clamps from CARS. When the leak first showed up shortly after replacement I just started tightening the clamps. During the past cruise night season it appeared that the leaks had stopped for good; no more drips, no more coolant loss. I drove the car for the last cruise night on the second Saturday of October. Here in Illinois it was pretty cool on that night, about 50 degrees. That is cooler weather than I usually drive in. That morning after, I garaged the car for the winter. I noticed a trail of coolant from under the hose connections at the heater core, trailing back to the rear tire. That is the largest leak I have had. I feel like the clamps are as tight as I dare. I could not see anything else that would cause the leak. I suspect the extreme between operating temps and ambient temps had something to do with it, but obviously they are suposed to hold no matter what the temp. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Steve ROA 9249

Has anyone had any luck matching the painted surfaces on a 601 blue interior?

I would agree with the comments about the appropriateness of changing out the cam too. I had this debate with a gearhead friend. However my argument was that I had 146,000 miles on my engine with no evidence of any major prior engine work. I felt that if I would gain peace and quiet at the expense of a little wear and tear on the old cam, I had nothing to lose. Lifters are not that expensive, and if the cam needed replaced anyway, what does it matter if I did it now or later? I put about 200 miles/year on my Riv so I didn't see it as critical. I also agree with the comment about using break-in lube when doing this. I also soaked the new lifters in motor oil before installation. When I started up after the lifter and rod replacement the noise was a little worrisome. After the recommended 20 minute, 1200 rpm break in period it quieted down very nicely. It runs very quite now, which leads me to believe that, in my case, I did the right thing.

I agree with Jim and Bill. I had a clatter I just couldn't stand anymore, on my '64 425. I started to clean up my engine bay and clean and paint the engine. After I had every removable item off of the engine, I decided to go ahead and change out the lifters and push rods. Even for a novice, it was surprisingly simple. I am extremely happy I went ahead and did it. The engine runs very quiet now.

Yeah, I thought of the seat belt thing later, but it was a funny visual. Never the less, I would want to make sure the seats are secure. It seems like I saw some tracks made up that would accomplish the same thing but I don't remember where I saw them.

I am 6'3" and have often thought about remounting the drivers seat in my '64 Riv. After I read a discussion about this before, a very good point was made about safety. Heaven forbid we should ever wreck our babies, but one must consider the thought of being a projectile through the windshield with a seat strapped to your tush. I have not yet seen a good and safe idea for remounting the seat. I am sure there is a solution but I have put off researching this until I replace my carpet. I would be interested in hearing other ideas.

Maybe I have missed the answer somewhere, but are the 5 piece grey liners that are on the market supposed to be installed as is or are they supposed to be covered with something? I bought my 64 with the orignal cardboard liners covered with scraps of the interior carpet that someone had replaced before. It is looking pretty sad. I have also seen photos of trunks on ebay that look like the grey liners are installed as is. What's the scoop? Conroy ROA 9842

I have used the Buick Green POR engine paint. It gives awsome results. The finish is beautiful. It can be a little challenging to work with but the brush on paint can provide a sprayed on look. It is very glossy and durable. It took three coats for me, when I painted my engine and accessory parts. I would highly recommend it.

Azcarman, I want to put in a plug for the tail light lens I purchased from GM Obsolete. I received them today, installed them in the new bezels and mounted them on the car. The lenses are BEAUTIFUL. They are sharply reproduced and have a brilliant reflective quality. You know, I wanted to whine about the price, but we have to realize that having a 64 Riviera is not like owning a Mustang or Chevelle. We pay the price for having a car out of the mainstream of collectors. I am very happy.