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dictator27

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Posts posted by dictator27

  1. Any colour chart that is that old will not be accurate any more. The colours will have faded out, even if they have been in a closed book. About all you can do is find a part of the body that has not been exposed to the weather, shine it up and match that. The upper body side moulding is the one that runs around the body just below the door windows. The lower moulding is the one that runs out along the engine hood and back to a point just below the rear side window. These will both probably be upper body colour. The reveal is the small panel between these two mouldings and is usually the lightest of the three colours. The cushion retainers are the metal strips that go around the front of the front and rear seat cushions to keep them in place.

    Terry

  2. Yes, the ring gap must be checked where the least amount of cylinder bore wear is, if the cylinders have not been bored out. Whether it has been bored out or not, the ring must be square in the bore. Using the piston to push the ring down the bore makes sure it is square in the bore, but to make sure the piston is straight, it must be pushed well down the cylinder.

    Terry

  3. From the shape of the radiator it is a 1928. The headlights and bumper are both wrong for that year. 1928 was the first year for a mechanical fuel pump, so check for that. From the location of the wheel nuts, it would appear to be a Commander or President. Dictators had demountable rims.

    Terry

  4. Studebaker didn't have torque specs for engine bolts at that point in time. Best thing to do is obtain a standard torque spec and cap screw markings chart. For instance a grade 5 bolt with a 7/16 shank and 13 threads/inch can be torqued to a maximum of 49 ft.lbs or 66.4 Nm. A similar bolt with 20 threads/inch can be torqued to 55 ft.lbs or 74.5 Nm. Hope this helps. Nice looking car by the way.

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