racertb

I don't have them and not even sure what they would look like. I can tell you that we've never had them and when the top is down, it just folds down and rests on the deck slats. I'd like to find another slat since one of mine is cracked...

I can tell you that these hubcaps look like they've never been touched and there is some black in the "P" of the hubcaps. The paint looks a little faded and worn, but it almost looks like a matte black. May have been semi-gloss at one time, but I have no idea. Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks everyone...I do like the blackwalls better as well!

Hi Everyone: I've posted on here a few times about tires, etc. and just wanted to share with you some updated photos of my ride from this past Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks Keiser31...I'll post photos when I get it all done and put back together. I got the bumpers re-chromed so I've got to put those back on as well.

Well, I finally figured it out. Here is one of the wheels with new tire and black rim; leaving the felloe and spokes the same for now (like in photo). Just need to do some detailing of the spokes and clean upo the tire.

All: I've got my new tires, flaps, rim washer and nut installed on the rims of my '29 Plymouth Roadster. My question has to to with the placement of the reducer nut for the dust cover. It appears on a diagram that the reducer nut would screw down over the brass stem and against top of the rim itself, then the felloe with wood spokes would go next, followed by the dust cover that would screw down on to the stem through the hole in the felloe...is this correct? If this correct, I would find it impossible to get the felloe in place with the stem being held firmly in place with virtually no wiggle room. According to Universal Tire (where I bought everything from), I am to put the felloe on first (which should be easier to do with wiggle room of the stem and very low, if any, air pressure in the tube) and then the reducer nut and dust cover. If this is the correct way, the reducer nut will go down to the fellow, but the hole in the felloe is about 1" in diameter. The reducer nut does not cover the hole 100%...is it supposed to? I almost feel as if I'd need a washer of some type to be put on before the reducer nut and dust cover. Is ther anyone who has experience with this?

Nice! My Dad had a 4-door '35 PJ...the car I learned to drive stick on!

Ok...I can measure, but would there be more than one size a for the '29 wood spoke wheels? I assume the Model A truck one (like the one pictured) probably won't work??? I guess I could measure and then give them a call...

Keiser: Will that puller work on my car? I saw it on a Model A site...

Good Afternoon: I've dropped off my rims to be refinished and I'm about to order my new tires, tubes and flaps. My question is, what type of valve stem - rubber, nickel or brass? The salesman at Universal Tire told me that all wood wheels should be using the brass stem. A salesman at Coker told me nickel...I don't think they really know. Does anyone on the board know? Is the brass (or nickel) stem stronger and or different in appearance? Does it really matter? Of course, the rubber is cheaper and is what was on the car...

Good Afternoon: Does anyone know a supplier for these? I want to replace these on my '29 and I found a company online who specializes in these...however, they are $43 EACH. Here is the link: http://colletizer.com/u_joint_disc.html

Good Afternoon: Having trouble pulling off the rear wheels/drums off the '29 Plmouth...any thoughts on how to do this without any damage? I've had to do this once before a few years ago but don't recall having this much trouble. Thanks... Ted

Plymouth Fans: Any feedback on the thoughts below? I plan on doing this project within the next couple of weeks...thanks for any more feedback! 1. Decided to go with black wall tires this time because I think they are more original and authentic. Looking at Lester, BF Goodrich and maybe even Firestone (a Model "A" tire?). 2. I believe I have decided to go with black rims as opposed to cadmium colored. I have seen it done both ways (both ways with a black wall tire). The photo that is attached to a previous reply with the '29 Roadster coming off the assembly line appears to have this combination, although you can see (in the actual photo that I have and not clear on here) that the spokes are painted and can bairly see the pin striping on the spokes.

PM sent a few days ago...

Thanks Rob...in the photo above with the Plymouth on the assembly line, it appears that the rims are black and I can't tell if the spokes are painted or not. I am going to go with black tires (most likely Lester) and keep everything else the same for now. If I did re-do the rims, I would probably go the cadium route for the paint break/contrast like you mentioned. I will PM you about the hubcaps...

Thanks for the photos...I'd love to see more, especially any roadsters. Check out this one coming off the assembly line...I bought the 8x10 off of eBay:

Thanks for all the feedback...the hubcaps are dull silver/brushed aluminum and are probably all original. Still leaning toward black walls, but have not ruled out ww tires either. Any information on where I could get the bumpers rechromed (although they still look good overall)?

Ply33...are you Tod Fitch? On your website is the same car from 10 years ago. I'm Ted Bush and sent your that photo for your web site back then (feel free to use the current photo!) Just a little history on the car...my Dad bought it for $700 back in 1962 when he saw it sitting on a gas station lot in Syracuse, NY. The car literally came out of a barn in that area. At the time, it was a cream/yellowish color (I have the photos of when it was brought home), but not sure if that was the original color or not. From there the car went to Maryland for a while and then to Florida in 1984 when Dad retired. The car was restored in '85-'86 and I had the top and rear tire cover done in 2004. Dad passed away in 2001 and I've had the car ever since. The laquer paint has held up really well all these years. The photo I posted was taken in 2010. I still think blackwalls are probably the way go, although the photo-shopped photo to show the general idea looks terrible (no offense). I'm sure the real tires on there would look good. How about any places that do chrome work? I know there are several in Hemmings, but I'm looking for word of mouth experience. Thanks!

Hello: I am going to be in the market for new tires for my '29 Roadster and I'm thinking of going with black wall tires (4.75/5.00x20) on the artillery wheels. I believe that is more authentic that the ww tires that are on there now. I even have a photo I got off eBay of a '29 Roadster coming off the assembly line with the black tires. Also, I want to get the bumpers re-chromed and I'm looking for tips on polishing up the aluminum hubcaps. Will most likely sand (lightly) the spokes and put some polyurethane on them. Any good, reputable and reasonably priced chromers out there? Looking for thoughts, suggestions, constructive criticism, etc. Thanks!

Is the radiator still available?

All: My step mother has a '39 LaSalle sedan. We are looking for a diagram/schematic regarding the steering wheel/horn assembly. The horns under the hood work fine. The problem is that when the steering wheel is turned right or left, the horn will sound. The horns were disconnected under the hood and my step mother removed the center cap on the steering wheel. We repaired what looked like the remains of a black-looking gasket; there was enough still there that we think we did an adequate job. The problem is, we can't figure out exactly how the whole assembly goes back in the steering wheel under the cap. I wish I was there when the assembly was taken apart in the first place, but I was not. I couldn't figure it out through several "trial and error" attempts. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially if someone has a diagram, pdf file, or anything that would help us. You can contact me at racertb@yahoo.com with any information. Thanks in advance, Ted Bush