racertb
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Posts posted by racertb
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I made a few adjustments to the carb to lean it out. Much smoother running and sound at the tailpipe. The short road test I did today was good. I think I've used too much choke before when starting. I have not installed the regulator yet and will monitor, since I never had the issue in the past.
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Here is the latest on my Plymouth. I took some time away from it due to work and other things going on. To summarize the recent happenings:
Exhaust and Intake/Exhaust gaskets changed out, carb taken apart and cleaned, new needle/seat and float. Plugs cleaned, put in another set of points (.020) and condenser. Went back to the "old" distributor cap (good shape and fits "better").
I did send off my base and distributor to Tom Hannaford at Then and Now for inspection. The distributor checked out fine and I did bite the bullet and get a new brass base and drive from him. Mine was showing signs of wear and the hole where the distributor sits was slightly out of round causing the wobble as I've shown in a previous video. No more wobble and hoping this is a good move overall, regardless. At least I know I've done most everything external that I can do to check off the list.
With all of the above, the car had a little trouble starting (carb loading up) but finally got her going. With the exhaust/vacuum leaks fixed, sounded much better and smoother. No more consistent miss out of the tailpipe (another video), just the occasional sputter which is probably normal for these cars (?). I adjusted both the timing and the carb by ear (idle and miture screw) when she was warm to get the smoothest sound possible going off the tailpipe. I did rev her up a few times and ran her through the gears...no hesitation and still sounded great each time I listened at the tailpipe. After about 25 minutes, I shut her down for the evening (this was last weekend).
Back to the carb. She's getting a little wet (even adjusted the new float again), but the idle mixture screw helped a little when I backed it out a half turn to make leaner. Also was part of the "smoothing" process. So what I'm going to do now is replace the regulator (I run a Carter electric fuel pump) with a new one that puts out 1-4 lbs. of pressure (Holley 12-804). The old dial-type regulator is mounted in line just after the fuel pump and I'm thinking two things 1) the new regulator might help me dial in the pressure, and 2) the regulator may need to be mounted closer to the carb, but out of sight. I've seen different thoughts on this...some say needs to be close to the carb, others say it doesn't really matter.
Regardless, I'm hoping to eliminate the occasional flooding/overloading and make things even better...then the road test.
Thoughts on regulator position for those of you running an electric pump and regulator? One day I plan on restoring the vacuum tank and plumbing and seeing how that goes, but not anytime soon.
Ted
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Thanks hursst...still have work to do and got to figure out the distributor/timing lever issue. Thanks for checking yours
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Posted this on another site and wanted to share here for more feedback...thanks in advance.
All:
As you may know from my previous posts, I've been fighting a timing/running issue for year now. Most recently I've made some slight adjustments to the distributor drive and distributor by removing what appeared to be excess slack/play. I did put a new gear on the distributor as well. Although that may have helped some, I'm certainly not out of the woods yet.
Yesterday I got the car running again (I took a break from it a while and also had to get a new battery) and kept in running for a good 20+ minutes before I turned it off. A minor victory. Before this, I could only get her started and keep her running for a minute or two before she'd slow down and die on me...all this while sitting in the garage. So, not sure if I fixed anything, other than take up the slack in the drives as I mentioned and a new gear.
I am posting three videos below and would like to get your feedback if you have 10 minutes to spare. The first is approximately 8 minutes and shows the car running and it's narrarted by yours truly. The second is of the tailpipe so you can hear how bad the miss is. The third is of the distributor installed on the car (car not running) and the play/wobble shown.
I know I've got an exhaust/intake leak which needs to be fixed (for the second time) that you can see in the video. Not sure if the carb also needs to be rebuilt to help matters, but I have a new float and kit to do so if needed, which I may need to anyway.
Please let me know what you think...thanks.
http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0035_zpsxbzuhsqf.mp4
http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0036_zps0qf6zsrh.mp4
http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0037_zpssktvqdvk.mp4
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I think there is one on eBay at the moment.
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Thanks Jack...I'm open to anything at this point. If this was the problem, I would assume the distributor gear is slipping out or off the drive gear, causing the timing to jump and eventually cut off/out and shut down. So, once it's off, it's off and that's that. I woudn't think it would go back and forth with acceleration and deceleration. Unless someone out there really knows the answer as to this issue, or how much play is too much play, then I'll have to experiment and figure it out myself.
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I appreciate all the support I can get! If fixing this "play" fixes the problem, that would be great. Right now, that is the question... I'd like to somehow get an answer to this if possible before I go any further. It's a real mystery to me!
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Here is the latest after a closer inspection of the distributor housing and distributor. Please let me know your thoughts on the play/sloppiness, if it's too much or is it set up right. This is from what I posted today on another site:
I'm starting to think the play in the housing shaft might be an issue like you suggested. After contacting Jeff Buton via email, he also suggested I concentrate on the housing and distributor alignment and check for sloppiness (or if it's too tight, which it is not) and while turning the housing shaft and distributor, see if it's sloppy and if gear slips.
So I did this earlier today and took some time with it. What I found was that if the slack is taken out of the shaft (I was pulling out on the shaft as if I added shims and got rid of the slack) the shaft with the distributor engaged and turned smoothly, again no excessive play.
I then did the same thing but this time I was pushing in (as if to take the slack and play out of it) on the shaft all the way while turning the distributor. This time, the shaft would turn freely for about half to three quarters of a turn and then stop, as if locked up. I had to pull out on the shaft to get the shaft and distributor to turn again.
At this point, I feel like this COULD be an issue, if not the issue. This play in the shaft and the play in the distributor shaft have me concerned, although I feel the housing shaft is the bigger problem. I could add some thin shims to correct this and take up the slack, but want to make sure I wouldn't do too much and then somehow screw up the housing itself. I don't know how I could as long as the shaft turns freely. But, who knows how much slack there should be?
A couple other things...both the distributor gear and housing shaft gear are good and are not slipping, they are on tight. Also, when then housing shaft is pulled out to take up slack (and turns the distributor freely), you can look down in the housing at the gear and it appears perfectly centered on where it would align with the distributor gear. When pushed in, the gear is ever so slightly off (pushed back) so it wouldn't be perfectly aligned with the distributor.
So, did I find the problem? I have no idea, but these are my observations with the housing and distributor.
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Here is an update and any thoughts would be appreciated. I removed the distributor and distributor housing off the motor. It looks like the housing may have been previously repaired (see "ring" with roll ping and other "pin heads" in the ring). This ring is a little loose. There is also some play (in and out) with the housing shaft. Apparently, someone added a Zerk/grease fitting to the housing. I need to go back and see how much play there is with the distributor when it's installed in the housing.
I'm not sure if this is the cause of my issue, but if it was and I didn't have to get into the motor and check out the cam gear, that would be great.
Here are a couple videos:
http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0029_zps6db3mz19.mp4
http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0028_zpsplm7qqtp.mp4
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Also, has anyone here had this problem before involving the gear? Or, experience removing and replacing the year?
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All:
Checking the base was something I was going to check as well. Unless there is something visibly wrong with it or broken (I don't think I will find anything for some reason), I've got to believe it's something internal. My guess is the Bakelite, or the entire gear is slipping around the cam somehow. I am not a mechanic (I've done some light mechanic work), but I really don't know what else it could be.
Like I've mentioned, I can get her going, but a load seems to create the issue.
Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated and any tricks or tips for removing the radiator, hood, crank pulley, etc. would also help!
Thanks again...
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Thanks for the replies. I'll check out the rotor, but recently changed it and the cap out for the one that was on before to see if any difference. It didn't really matter since the symptoms were the same. It's like it slips out of time then shuts down each time.
The spark control really doesn't make a difference and its all the way in at full advance like it's supposed to be when running. If I pulled it out when running, I would only retard the timing so it wouldn't help the problem. If it is the gear, it just doesn't make sense how I can get it going again each time.
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All:
I recently posted on another site that deals with early Plymouths (28Q29U) and thought I would post hear as well to possibly get some more thoughts, opinions and advice. To make a very long story short, I have been having timing issues for the last several months after the car left me stranded. It just cut out, popping and backfiring...I had to be towed home. I was actually able to get the car going again after static timing and took it to another show. Made it there and then the car died again on the way home. Another tow. Took a break from it for a while, static timed again and then went a mile up the road and the timing slowly retarded and the car shut off. I flooded the carb as it was slowing down to keep it moving to no avail. The car has good vacuum when it runs and I believe, based on thoughts from others, that it could possibly be the cam gear...the teeth looked good the last time I checked, but it was suggested that the center of the gear - bakelite - could be the culprit and the timing is again slipping.
The post below is my most recent post on the site mentioned above; just want to get some other thoughts before I (possibly) tear into the motor, which will be another project if it comes to it. Any thoughts, comments, etc., would be appreciated.
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Most of my previous posts over the last few months have dealt with my timing issues that I've been having for a while, and it appears that I may have to get into the motor to check the timing gear. To sum it all up, the car was running yesterday, looked good on the vacuum gauge, etc. I've been fighting this on and off now for a few months. Each time, I can eventually get the car timed and running. Recently, I thought the carb may be the issue...I'm sure it could be taken apart and cleaned anyway. I started her up yesterday and listened to her run for several minutes and things looked good. Then, the idle went down and she started idling rough and the vacuum gauge was going crazy. I shut her off for a few minutes; carb was wet with gas so I thought that was the problem and need to take it off and rebuild now. I didn't. I attempted to start the car and she wouldn't. Heard a couple pops and I knew the timing was screwed up again. Since I made some marks on the distributor and crank pulley for reference the other day after she was running good, I went to check that out first.
Once my marks were lined up, I pulled off the distributor cap to inspect the rotor. The rotor was definitely off the mark and looked to be almost 180° out from where it should be. I've had the distributor out before and the gear was fine. So now, going to put the carb on the back burner. I think I've been in denial about the gear since I've always been able to get the car running again. How could I keep getting it running if the gear was bad???
I'm quite sure I've got to get into it to check the cam gear to see if that's the problem. It's either that or the distributor, whatever is throwing the rotor off and changing the timing.
This is disappointing since my Dad had the motor rebuilt in the '80's and you know there aren't that many miles on the car. I found hand written receipts and notes from the build and it looks like an engine kit was purchased from Egge, but there is nothing specific regarding the cam or gear.
Anyway, I've never had to do something major on this car before, so I'll need tons of advice regarding tear down of hood, radiator and anything else to get this apart. Trust me, I don't want to do this if I don't have to, but I don't know what else it could be at this point. I would hate to tear it down only to find out I didn't need to.
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Or, an AC C87 or Champion D16...
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There is no water pump on a '29 Plymouth...it's a Thermo Siphon system like on an old tractor.
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Thanks Jon...the car is running good overall, so I don't feel like taking it apart to look at the stamped number. You're right that is just to adjust air flow. The screw is not totally loose, but wiggles a little and is loose enough to make the "hissing" sound (too much air?) that I don't think is right. Here is a photo of the spring and screw that came off the carb (Carter RT-08)
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Hello, I have a '30 Roadster, but I've never messed with the idel control screw and I'm, not very knowledgable with carburetors. Mine has a spring between the screw and the carb, as I assume your does too? My screw seems to fit very tightly with no extra play. I have not noticed any air coming from it, but I haven't tested it either. I'll have it out driving on Saturday, so I'll take a look at mine when I start it. I would assume that any air leaking out would be a bad thing either way.
My has the spring as well. I don't think it's normal either but wanted to ask on this forum. I will either look for a new screw or try some Teflon tape. If you do get your car out or running on Saturday, let me know what you find out. Thanks!
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All:
I was working on the car today and "playing" with the idle control screw/fuel-air mixture screw (#5 in the instruction book) and noticed that while fine tuning to what I though was a good setting, there seemed to be a "hissing" sound (air) coming from that part. That is, I could place my fingers on the screw itself which would stop the hissing/air, as if the screw was loose inside the housing.
My first thought was/is this is not normal and there shouldn't be any leak/suction (air) here. Am I correct in this? If so, is the screw somehow worn out causing excessive play?
Has anyone had this issue before or is this normal operation?
Thanks,
Ted
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No, not looking for more power...I think I just mis-read something in the Plymouth Master Parts List book...
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Does anyone know the name of the color of this car? If looks an awful lot like my '29 Plymouth U Roadster...I think mine is called Ardsley Green, but I've never seen any color chips to know and verify if that's the correct name or not...
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It's starting to look like I read the parts manual wrong...I will look again on how it's worded and why I thought the red head came on the earlier Plymouths...
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All:
No, I'm not talking about women (
), but who can give me information on the "Red Head" high compression head for early Plymouths? I have a '29 U Roadster and apparently the red head was a high compression head "option" was supposedly standard on the roadsters...Has anybody seen one? Had one? Is the head painted red as opposed to silver for the silver dome?
Just curious to know if this really existed...
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Nice!
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Beautiful roadster. I notice that you don't have the metal "saddles" on the outer 2 rear deck slats. Are you missing them, or did your car not have them to begin with? What do you use, if anything, to secure the folded top to the rear deck?
I don't have them and not even sure what they would look like. I can tell you that we've never had them and when the top is down, it just folds down and rests on the deck slats.
I'd like to find another slat since one of mine is cracked...
1930 Plymouth models
in Technical
Posted
The restored one must be a very early '30 without the water pump and rag joints, which is like my '29. I have a spare '30 motor without the water pump.