rsb
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It takes specialized equipment to fully test a condenser (capacitor). Capacitance meter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Some higher end multi-meters have a capacitance range which will give you the value of the capacitor but this value can be skewed if the capacitor has developed sufficient internal resistance (leakage). Capacitors are made of rolled up stacks of paper & foil. The paper is acidic and over time degrades and causes leakage. I tend to shy away from old condensers, even NOS because of this. Their biggest enemy is time. From my work on old radios, I don't trust any capacitor more than about 25 years old.
And yes, if you know the intended value of the condenser, it can be replaced with a discrete capacitor of the same value and sufficient voltage rating. This is done all the time by those who restore Model-T box coils and/or other coils that have the condenser integrated into the coil package.
Regards,
Ron
P.S. This topic prompted me to pull out a new condenser for '54 Chevy (6-volt) and put it on my bridge. It measures 0.2uF (microfarad)
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I have re-wired two '28 Chevys and a '31 Chevy in the last couple years. In both cases, there was one fuse for everything. When it goes, nothing works except the ignition (except I think in the '31 even the ignition dies). Over the years when a fuse popped and you became a pedestrian, you would find whatever conductive material you could along side the road to bridge the circuit and get you home. Foil, wire, metal rod, etc. Hopefully not a .22 round! Often, that temporary fix became permanent which is what leads to electrical fires. Dad's car had a short length of aluminum rod stock in place of the fuse. I would recommend at least two fuses. One for the ignition circuit and the other for the remaining items. Separate fuses help you isolate the cause of any electrical problems. If you're going to run old wiring, carry spare fuses and always carry a fire extinguisher!
Ron
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A radio of that era, unless recently serviced, is almost certain to have bad capacitors. Particularly the filter and buffer capacitors. They tend to develop high resistance and/or short out. Any capacitor older than 25 years is suspect. If you operate the radio in this condition for very long, it will take out the vibrator & other tubes as well. A minimal repair would consist of new buffer cap (under the vibrator socket) and new filter capacitors. Then replace the rectifier if needed (typically a black metal tube with number 0Z4.) Then go from there. For best results, all capacitors should be replaced with the exception of maybe the micas in the tuning section. Don't waste your money on tubes until you get the capacitors changed out!
Regards,
Ron
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Can't say for sure but pictures 02a & b look like the air cleaner on Dad's '31 although Dad's doesn't have that right angle bracket with 2 holes. Maybe it fell off.
The reason I know is because we just removed it for cleaning in a few weeks ago and the images are fresh in my mind.
Regards,
Ron
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Start your own band!
Ron
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The best 6 to 12 out there: 6 Volt to 12 Volt Converter
For 6 to 110, search for TERADO TRAV-ELECTRIC
Ron
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Go to www.fillingstation.com and click Shop Online. Pick your year, 1926, and type in "throwout bearing". You will see your carbon disc as well as a modern conversion bearing.
Ron
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I have three. Two 1928 Chevys and a 1957 Chevy Bel Air hardtop, all running and actively used. I was born in 1968.
Ron
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Hello,
Last week I noticed the spare tire on my 28 Chevy was flat. I replaced the inner tubes in all five tires back in 2010. The replacements were "Made in India". When I broke the wheel down, I found the tube was split not far from the base of the valve stem where it's vulcanized to the tube. The only complaint I have with the other four tubes is they don't hold air very well. The tires will go flat on the car in three months and it's not from leaky valve stems. My question is whether this was a fluke or should I be concerned about the other tubes as well.
I am including some pictures and no, it's not an optical illusion, the embossed information is double printed.
Thanks,
Ron
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I like the Optima also. The 6-volt model is 8010-044 and I bought mine from Amazon a couple years ago. Delivered, it came in around $120. I see now the lowest price I can find is about $145.
Regards,
Ron
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Congratulations on your acquisition. It's really a charming car. I would dust it off, get the mechanicals sorted and drive it AS-IS. Here are some links that may help you. Looks more like a 26 to me.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1925/25crmindex.html
1927 Chevrolet Repair Manual - Capitol Cars - Series AA
My suggestion for the overheating is to start the car and warm it up good. Then put your hand on various places on the front of the radiator core. The temperature should feel pretty even. If it's hot in the middle and cooler on the sides, it has some blockage. Did your radiator guy remove the top and bottom tanks to flush it out? If not, then it probably still has blocked passages. I've seen it before many times. Radiator shops don't know how to handle these old cores.
Best of luck.
Ron
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To speak to the title of this thread, the reason is because American companies were making THE REAL THING.
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...and the Vespa said, "I don't know what it is. It started out as a wart on my side."
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Sorry, no fish oil listed in the MSDS.
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Early 1928 Chevrolet National AB Coach made in St. Louis, MO.
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I bought a 6V to 12V step-up converter and wired it to a cigarette lighter jack. The thing is freakin' awesome. 6-8 amps at 13.6VDC depending on the polarity of your car. No-load current is less than 3mA so it can be left on full time or can be wired through its own relay to trigger with the car's ignition system. It will operate with as little as 4 volts. It's well filtered so there's no switching noise when powering radio receivers. Zero ripple. By far the best inverter I have tried yet and I have tried quite a few.
I have no affiliation with the above, just giving an opinion based on my experience.
Regards,
Ron
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Sucked on the vacuum line and it closed, as did the air inlet. The air inlet was a complete seal, the vacuum was a pretty good seal, but with lots of suction, could just get a bit of air through, very little, pretty sure that wasn't the problem.
With a minor leak and continuous suction over a period of minutes, you could overflow the tank. Maybe time to do a good cleaning on those valve assemblies.
Best,
Ron
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Hi John,
You are correct. The 26 Chevy would not have an oil filter. The 25 and earlier would have an external distributor and oil pump mounted to the rear of the generator. I would drop the pan and inspect the oil pump and copper line to the oil distribution block. You should be able to remove the bottom plate on the pump without having to remove the pump from the engine. Take care to re-install install the vanes according to the repair manual referenced earlier. Best wishes.
Ron
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The 1927 Chevrolet oil pump is a vane type pump with a small spring between the vanes. Sometimes the spring breaks and leads to loss of oil pressure. If it were mine, I would first check the oil distributor valve spring as shown here: 1927 Chevrolet Repair Manual - Capitol Cars - Series AA. If it checks out, I would remove the 18 screws and drop the oil pan for inspection of the oil pump and outlet tube shown on the previous and next pages respectively.
Best wishes,
Ron
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Hi. I recently acquired this overdrive and I'm trying to understand how it's supposed to function. I can find very little information about it. I believe it's for 1948 and earlier Chevrolet. It has the two cables but the under dash lever mechanism is gone. One cable obviously shifts between direct and overdrive but what is the purpose of the other cable? Is it a reverse lock?
Inside the case on the forward-most end, there is a large gear with a ratchet and pawl wheel over it. The second cable seems to push a plunger into that gear. The strange part is that large gear never physically engages with the sliding gear on the shift fork although it looks like it should. Maybe I'm missing something. I wish I had an exploded parts view.
I would appreciate any info you all might have.
Thanks,
Ron
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On the subject of condensors
in Technical
Posted
Howard,
If you have an original one, it can be measured with the correct equipment and even if leaky, you can usually determine its value pretty close unless it's totally shorted or open. Barring that, I would probably start with a standard value like 0.2uF and do as nickelroadster suggests. Watch the condition of the points for a while and adjust upward or downward as needed.
Regards,
Ron