rsb
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Posts posted by rsb
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Sweet little coupe although I think it's a 1926 based on the headlights and the radiator shell. Have you checked the starter in the car? There may not be enough amperage to fully drive it with just jumper cables.
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0.22 micro Farads would be inline with modern style condensers. Perhaps there is a missing decimal point on the reference to "22 micro Farads"?
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What about a phenolic circuit board? The type hobbyists start with for building electronic projects. It's usually copper clad on one or both sides. You could etch the copper off except maybe around the rivets and have a durable non-conductive surface.
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The original coil had a resistor on top by design. If you replace the original coil with a newer 6V coil and condenser, you do not need a ballast resistor.
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In addition to what has been mentioned, I would try substituting a coil from a newer vehicle such as a 1954 Chevrolet with a condenser on the negative lead and no resistor. The original coils are known to be unreliable. They have the condenser built-in and unless it has been taken apart, as in having the tar melted out and condenser replaced with a modern equivalent, it's definitely bad by now.
Another question, do you have the carburetor intake hooked up to the pre-heater on the exhaust? These motors run best with warm air.
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I had the Uvira process done on one of my cars as well. Reflectivity is comparable to silver and the end result does not tarnish, although I still wouldn't go touching it or rubbing it with a rag or anything like that.
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The trick is never touch the silver on the reflectors. Any contaminates such as the natural oils in your skin will tarnish the silver. Do not use rubber-impregnated gaskets. The oils in the rubber will tarnish the silver too. Put on white museum gloves when handling them for installation. I have never used any products or done any cleaning on mine and they look as good as the day they were installed 18 years ago.
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I have had the Peterson regulator in both my cars for years with no problems. I kept the original cut-out and 3rd brush for max current regulation. I don't like to fully tax my generator in the event the battery goes flat. I was surprised by observing the ammeter just how fast a good battery recovers after starting the engine. By the time I reach the end of my street, the ammeter is already approaching zero.
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I think gravity is your answer. The lower the carburetor, the easier it is to deliver fuel to it. Prior to mechanical fuel pumps and vacuum tanks, carburetors were gravity fed.
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You could also get an optima and disguise it in an original-looking battery case. See this thread:
I also see them on evilBay from time to time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Style-Battery-Case-Hides-6-volt-Optima-Battery-Classic-Vintage-Cars-/361724753348?hash=item543879b5c4:g:tRwAAOSwqu9UzxkP&item=361724753348&vxp=mtr
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I don't know if it's an old wives tale but I put Premium (91 octane) fuel in my older cars that I don't drive as often. The thought is the higher octane fuel is less volatile and lasts longer.
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A quick google turned up this: http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html
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Those Optimas are like 800 CCA which is higher than most wet cell batteries. If you need two of them to crank your car, then you have other issues. Possibly bad starter, bad ground, or cable size too small. The power density of two 6-volt Optimas in parallel is probably too much for your poor little generator to keep up.
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The Superiors were from 1923 - 1926. Then in 1927 came Capitol and in 1928, National. 4-wheel brakes would put the chassis at 1928 since that was the first year for 4-wheel brakes. The radiator shell resembles a Capitol but the trucks were typically a year behind in styling so that could be National. The headlamps appear to be from a 6-cylinder and resemble 1931.
Cheers
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That number has no meaning to me. I would recommend you go to http://vcca.org/forum/ and post your question there.
Cheers!
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Exactly why I don't enter judged shows
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If they're reasonable, they're not made in the US. I can't speak to current quality but I've never had an issue with a Moog part in the past.
A simple google search turned up this: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/blog/where-are-moog-parts-made/
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Also, I just noticed the carb flange on your intake manifold has been cut and rotated 90 degrees to accommodate that Zenith carburetor so you will need an intake manifold as well.
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Tinindian is correct. It has the wrong carburetor. It should have a Carter RAKX-0 that looks like this.
Nice truck!
Cheers!
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Check out http://www.earlychevyparts.com for the flex pipe.
Cheers!
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The hot air pipe is simply a flexible metal tube that draws air from the air filter you pictured, around the outside of the exhaust pipe, and into the carburetor. It is routed behind the motor, above the starter, and into the carburetor. It is available as a reproduction part. The air filter you pictured is basically an empty tin can with louvers around the bottom. The idea is the vortex of air will spin any heavy debris out. I think the vortex was only in the designer's head.
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An all original 27 would have a Carter RX-0 or RAKX-0 carburetor and a vacuum tank for fuel delivery and not an electric pump. Assuming that is the case with your car, here are the things I would check in order of least difficulty. Does the carburetor still have the flex pipe from the exhaust pre-heater installed? The RX-0 carburetors like hot air. Without this pipe, the motor will be very cold-natured and tend to spit and pop from the carburetor when you touch the throttle. The only adjustment available to you would be the idle air screw. If it's idling properly, chances are it's adjusted ok. Also those carburetors have no accelerator pump so transition off the idle circuit takes some feathering of the throttle. Some hesitation is normal when you "give it the gas". Next thing I would do is disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and make sure it has good flow. Then I'd drop the float bowl and check the float level as well as overall cleanliness. If the fuel system checks out, I would then look at the condition of the plugs, plug wires, check the ignition point gap, and timing.
Cheers!
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1927 Chevrolet Superior Starter issue
in Technical
Posted
Sounds like you have an original coil. The "dial" or "knob" as you describe it is a ballast resistor for the coil. It keeps the coil from overheating when ignition is on for long periods without the engine running. The resistor should have a circular porcelain core with spiraled wire running around its circumference. You can test it with a continuity tester / ohm meter. If it has continuity, it's good. If not, that would explain why your coil is not firing. Perhaps the internal wire has rusted away.