Fred Zwicker
-
Posts
351 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Fred Zwicker
-
-
Thanks TX Buicks,
I have checked out the site and just ordered three books - hope they will be of help.
Fred
-
I just purchased the above 1917 Buick Touring at the Glenmoor Auction last week. The car runs great, and starts right up after figuring it out (not sure of the exact procedure yet, but we did get it running).
Color is probably not correct, but body, paint, top and interior are all in perfect condition. Is there any printed information on the history, operation and maintenance on this car available? Does anyone know the correct color combiniation for this car when new? Thanks,
Fred
-
Thanks Clints66,
I will try your suggestion next time I change the oil, but did add 8 oz. of EOS to the recent and latest oil change to take care of the ZZDP. I have Shell Rotella grade 30 for use in my 1939 LaSalle with original flat head engine, but since I already had some 10W40 in stock, put that in the Pontiac that had the original V8 engine (rebuilt previously). Since changing from 5W30 semi-synthetic to the 10W40, I have no more lifter clatter. I also changed the transmission fluid to Dexron 2. Attached picture shows the engine.
Fred
-
Shortly after graduating from high school, we used to drag race on a wide street near the school. We would block off the street and line up 4 abreast and one student would wave a white hankerchief for the start. I had a very fast 37 Ford that always got the jump on everyone, but a doctor's son often brought his dad's 1939 LaSalle sedan. Once he hit second gear, all we saw were the LaSalle tailights. The poweful flathead V8 was always a winner.
That was in 1950. It took me 18 years to afford one, but in 1968, I finally bought an identical 1939 LaSalle sedan and restored it, painting it the same dark green color as the one owned by the doctor. I kept that car for quite a few years, finally selling it due to lack of space. During the interim, had many antique and classic cars and became a life member of the AACA, as well as a member of many other car clubs.
About 4 years ago, I bought and restored a 1939 LaSalle 2-door convertible, which has won numerous awards and is on display at work in our car museum. See www.tpcarcollection.com for pictures. At this time, I own 7 antique cars and my son owns 5 or 6, so we have plenty of things to keep us busy. Attached are some of our cars at present.
Fred
-
Good news! Yesterday we drained the 5W30 semi-synthetic oil from the 1955 Pontiac Safari and added 10W-40 and there is no clicking now. Evidently the 5W30 was just too thin for this engine (original engine - rebuilt). I also heard the synthetic oil can cause leakage problems in older cars, so will avoid this in the future.
Fred
-
After 3 tries with the rubber valve cover gaskets, finally was able to obtain a set of cork gaskets (Fel-Pro brand, the same as the rubber ones). Using the same methods as used previously, installed the cork gaskets and had perfect results - NO leaks. I can't figure out why they even sell the rubber gaskets, although one friend who used to drag race liked the rubber gaskets as were easier to remove and replace for adjustments. I guess a little oil leak didn't bother him.
Next is to remove the 5W30 oil semi-synthetic oil and replace it with 10W40 non-synthetic oil to quiet down some valve clatter at startup, which stops completely after warmup. I heard that synthetic oils tend to leak as well. This will be done tomorrow, as we are getting the car ready for the September 19th Glenmoor Concours show. See www.glenmoorgathering.com
Here is a picture of the car.
Fred
-
I have an original 1955 Pontiac Safari wagon with an original rebuilt V-8 engine and in detailing the engine, we removed the valve covers for painting. These covers had cork gaskets and did not leak. All of the old cork was carefully removed and it was stuck tightly to the inside of the valve covers in most places. We ordered new gaskets, but they were black rubber (Fel-Pro).
1) We installed them carefully, but they both leaked.
2) We removed them and carefully applied black silicone sealer to the rubber, including around the 4 bolt holes. All metal surfaces were spotless. They both still leaked.
3) We removed these and started all over with a new set of the same black rubber gaskets (Fel-Pro). This time we were very particular and double-checked to be sure that the inside surfaces of the valve covers were dead flat. We used a light coating of gasket shellac to hold the gaskets in place to the covers only while installing. We did not use any silicone this time and we added a set of the flat metal plates at each bolt to distribute the attachment more evenly. At startup, everything looked good until we took it for a short drive. More leakage.
*Note: We did not over-tighten the bolts, snugging them up and tightening about a half turn, which seems to be the proper procedure.
I am now wondering about the advisability of using rubber gaskets for this application? I just ordered a set of cork gaskets and that will be our next move. We are getting frustrated. When we install the cork gaskets, what type of sealant (if any) is recommended? (One side or both sides?). The valve covers are original, are not rusted, and appear to be in perfect shape.
*Note: The oil was just changed prior to all of this at a Quick Lube and they used 5W30 oil and it was marked, "Semi-Synthetic". I heard that synthetic oil has a tendency to leak, but do not feel this is the entire problem, as leakage is considerable. We plan to change back to a heavier conventional oil as soon as we can get the valve covers properly sealed.
Any ideas on this? Thanks,
Fred
-
The engine cover is one special piece. Was wondering what the reaction is in the Pontiac community??
Don
I don't know, as this car has not been shown anywhere as yet. First showing of both cars will be at the Glenmoor Gathering in Canton, Ohio on September 19th. See www.glenmoorgathering.com for information on this year's show. I seldom show my cars, other than in our car museum in Canfield, Ohio.
See www.tpcarcollection.com for pictures of cars owned by my son and I. Other than the modified Safari, all of my cars are originals, while my son's likes both originals and modifieds.
Fred
-
Don,
We are getting a little off topic, as my concerns were focused on the oil used in my original Pontiac Safari. However, since you asked about the modified Safari twice.......
I didn't install the engine in that car, as it was built by a Pontiac Dealer in 2000 with no expenses spared, using all new drive train, disk brakes, Fatman front end, Dakota digital dash, Vintage Air, ivory leather interior, etc. The exterior appearance was kept exactly as stock, other than the 17" wheels and the previous pearl white paint. Fortunately, the dealer insisted on maintaining the original look, but with modern conveniences. The car was painted at the Pontiac dealership in a 2-tone pearl white (Lincoln pearl over Cadillac pearl) and looked OK, but had a few nicks in the paint - nothing major.
A friend of mine bought the car from the Georgia dealer about 4 or 5 years ago and drove it back to Iowa. I bought the car early last year from my friend and used it as a nice driver last summer and fall. After Hershey last year, we brought it into our shop and in touching up the paint, attempted to match the pearl, but could not do so. We ended up giving it a complete repaint and new carpet. (No body work or chrome plating was required, although we removed all of the chrome, doors, hood, tail gate, etc. - a first class job). Preferring originals, but appreciating the conveniences of this car, went back to close to the original copper and ivory color, but not doing anything to the mechanicals, as the car has only about 3500 miles since the build in 2000. I added new tires for safety reasons.
I received a 4-page 2001 magazine article about the car and it did not say what engine was used, other than saying it was a new GMC crate engine. I am hoping that a Pontiac dealer would have installed a Pontiac engine, but I do not know. The engine had a 4 bbl Holley carb and a lot of chrome and looked nice, but we made a custom engine cover in our shop utilizing Pontiac Indian hood ornaments from two '49 Pontiacs. These light up when a hidden switch is activated. Here are some pictures of the engine cover, which took about a month to fabricate out of metal and fiberglass. It is removable in 4 sections, does not rattle and engine does not overheat (engine has both a pusher and puller fan). We had a local artist do the graphics. The engine and transmission oil can be checked wihout removing this cover (dip sticks are behind the rear of the cover attached to the fire wall). We went a little overboard on this project, but wanted to do something very unusual for once.
Some like modifieds - some like originals. While this Pontiac was purchased as a modified and will remain so, you can bet that my original Safari will stay 100% original. I really like both cars, so for those who feel strongly about their choice, take your pick! Both are beautiful cars in showroom condition.
Fred
-
I talked to my body man today and everyone on this forum is exactly correct - they used oil pumped from a drum that is supposed to be 5W30 Kendall. Never again will I use such oil. In the past I once had oil changed in my modern car at a Quick Lube place and that shop had name brand oils to choose from, and all were in quarts. I didn't realize that they are now selling bulk oil. From now on we will be changing our own oil, as in the past (we have a lift machine so why not?)
I just thought of something - Earlier in the week (immediately after the oil change) we drove the car into our shop and it was running quietly. Wanting to get a nicer finish on the valve covers, we removed them for refinishing in the correct color (Bill Hirsch 1955 Pontiac engine paint). Each bank was sitting open for 1-1/2 days. (I know we should have covered it, but our shop is clean and we did not do so). After installing the valve covers, the clicking was very noticeable as soon as the car was started. We took it for about a one mile drive and it was still clicking when we returned, although was starting to quiet down slightly. It was then shut down and parked for the night in our shop.
This morning we added 8 ounces of EOS (1/2 bottle) and a half quart of straight SAE 50 weight oil to top it off (it was almost a quart low from the oil change anyhow). We then started the engine and let it warm up and no more ticking! My theory is that possibly a piece of the old cork gasket may have dropped into the lifter area and could have temporarily caused something, which seems now to be resolved. Is this possible? Or was it the EOS and the 1/2 quart of SAE 50 oil?
Later I still plan to change the oil to a high quality detergent oil - possibly in a 10W40 grade or at least heavier than the present mix, but want to see how it sounds for a few days. As for the 20W-50 recommendations, I may use this in my 1954 Buick Special, which has more wear on the engine and could use some help.
Thanks to all who helped with this issue. Hopefully all is well that ends well.
Fred
-
Thanks Don and Rick,
I think that I should change the oil to a heavier grade of oil, as feel that 5W-30 is too thin for our area in NE Ohio, although I am not sure of the potential problems if 5W-30 oil is used in this car. My 1955 Pontiac is driven only in the summer months and we have had some very hot summers of late.
Regarding not changing brands of oil, unfortunately it is not always possible to determine the brand and/or weight of oil used by a previous owner of an antique car, when this information is just not available. After looking at the lifters yesterday (nice and clean and no gunk), I feel that detergent oil has been used in the past, as if not, there would usually be a lot of visible gunk in that area, but I could be wrong.
I have a 1939 LaSalle with a fully rebuilt flathead V8, and in that car I use Shell Rotella T SAE-30 oil and add about 8 ounces (1/2 bottle) of EOS with an oil change. The 1939 flathead Cadillacs call for straight-weight SAE-30 oil and that is what most of the Cadillac/LaSalle owners seem to use.
For this 1955 Pontiac with the original V-8 engine, I have on hand two name brands of 10W-40 that I am considering, along with some EOS. This might be a suitable alternate choice to Don's 20W-50, but am hoping for more comments. The factory calls for straight weight 20 or 10W-30 weight. I don't know why the quick lube chose 5W-30 ??? I had my body man take the car for the oil change and he said that is what they recommended. However, most of their business is with newer cars. Once I saw on the invoice that they had used 5W-30, I immediately thought it was too thin and the engine let me know when it was started. I will ask him later today if the oil was bulk, or from sealed containers, as I do not know at present.
Picture of my two 1955 Pontiac Safaris is attached. The original Safari is shown to the left. Both will be shown at the upcoming Glenmoor Gathering Concours Show in Canton, Ohio on September 19th. This year's emphasis is on cars made in Cleveland, Ohio and from 1955-1957, all Pontiac Wagon bodies were made in Cleveland at the Fisher Body Plant on Euclid Avenue.
Fred
-
I had a nice quiet running 1955 Pontiac Star Chief Safari until I had the oil and filter changed last week. The quick oil change shop used Kendal Detergent 5W30 oil and since then, the lifters are making a clicking sound. The orignal Pontiac V-8 engine was rebuilt several years ago (with maybe a few thousand miles on the rebuild) and I do not know the type of oil used by the previous owner, although we did remove the valve covers for painting and everything looked real clean in the lifter areas. The 55 Pontiac Manual calls for 20 weight, or can sub 10W-30 or 10W-20. the temperature in Ohio this week is in the low to mid 90s, so am wondering if the oil could be too thin? My mechanic wants to add a can of STP, but I feel that I may want to go to 10W-30 or straight 20 weight and forget about the STP.
Any ideas? I am hoping for some suggestions. Thanks,
Fred
-
Back in the 1950s, while attending the local college, I used to hang around a local Ohio junk yard that was located along the Mahoning River. I used to help burn cars with an acetylene torch for something to do (no pay but free parts). Liking dogs, I always brought meat scraps for the junk yard dog. He could hardly wait for me to get out of my 1941 Ford when he saw me coming with his snacks. I was the only person that could come near the dog, other than George, the owner. The dog eventually died, so George figured out a new plan for night protection.
George developed a very unique burglar alarm system for what he called his office, which was full of the "good parts". When he left at night, he strung black fishing line around the inside of the office trhough a series of eyelits, and the end of the fishing line was attached to a round finger-sized wooden end. Back then they had dial phones. He would dial his home number all except the last digit and insert the wooden end into the hole to the last digit of the dial and go home (he lived only a few blocks away from the yard).
During the night if anyone broke into the office, someone eventually would run into the black line and the plug would pull out of the dial and the call would be completed, ringing in his home. He told me that he could often hear the burglars talking or moving around. Within 5 minutes, George would arrive with his shotgun, sometimes firing the gun into the air. He laughingly told me that many times the burglars would run out of the office and to the back of the yard and jump into the river to escape. After awhile the word got out and he had no more late night visitors to his yard. He said they could never figure out how he got to the yard so quickly. George worked every day until he died in his 80s a few years back.
Fred
-
Does anyone know where I can purchase a set of engine and engine accessory decals for my 1955 Pontiac Safari with Strato-Streak V8 engine ? I could also use another "Strato-Streak" plate that mounts on the valve covers. I have one, but am missing the other. Most any condition is OK, as long as it can be buffed and relettered. Pictures of this engine decal attached (not my engine). Thanks.
Fred
-
Does anyone know about adding a dash of Marvel Mystery Oil to the brake booster through the top opening? Attached picture shows the top opening referred to earlier in this post. Car is a 1957 Buick Super Riviera Hardtop.
Some call this a "Treadle Vac". I have the new softer brake shoes from Topping and want to do everything at once.
Thanks,
Fred
-
Your '57 Super may have a similar power brake booster as mine. 15 years ago,
the car suffered from really bad pedal feel, etc., and the answer is thus...
If you have the same booster, take off the curved rectangular cap and add a
few dashes of Marvel Mystery Oil (or similar) to the opening beneath that cap,
working the pedal to regain "feel.". There's a leather "gasket" that requires
lubrication in that booster, and since doing that fix, my brakes have been just fine.
Pardon the nasty condition of my booster, but the Roadmistress has been a
driver since 1992, and the engine bay has never been detailed.
Hope this helps,
TG
I sent my brakes to Topping and they are in my office, waiting to install. Prior to doing so, want to try the Marvel Mystery Oil. I located the rectangular cap on my booster and it looks to be the same. So my question now is" Can you define "a few dashes" ? I don't want to add too much or too little. Also when working the pedal, should engine be on or off? Thanks,
Fred
-
Jeff,
Sometimes a picture, even if "in process", might create some interest. Also you may want to clarify what is covered in the restoration (such as body work, paint, interior, engine, chrome, glass, etc.). Even the history of the car (if known) can be helpful. Your car is rare and desirable, but the more information that you provide, the greater the chance that someone will understand what to expect. You may also want to provide a ball-park estimate of the time to complete the restoration. Good luck,
Fred
-
What year do these fit?
Thanks, Fred
-
Is your 1953 Buick Roadmaster a Hardtop or a Convertible? As far as I know, it cannot be both. Pictures and an approximate asking price would be helpful.
Fred
-
Here are two more pictures taken earlier this week, comparing an original 1955 Pontiac Safari and a modified 1955 Pontiac Safari. Both are in show condition and can be driven most anywhere.
Fred
-
Thanks TG,
I have some Marvel Mystery Oil (good stuff) and will try this and let you know if it helps. My booster looks the same and has an access opening on the top, so am hoping that this will work.
Fred
-
Quote: Please contact Vince @ "C.H. Topping Company" in Long Beach, California.
Hi Marty - I was on vacation last week and noticed your post last night. Today I called Vince and he said that the linings can cause a BIG difference. So I am shipping my brake shoes (front & rear) for their new softer linings and hoping it does the job. If not, next step will be to send them the vacuum booster. Vince said that the wheel cylinders should be checked and should be 600-800 PSI, so will check them also. Hopefully everything will work out well and I thank you for the advice. I will keep you and others on this forum posted of the results.
Fred
-
Do you know what body Lincoln?...TC/Navig./or...? They look like they belong there-difficult to achieve with modern seats in an old car. Beautiful.
They are power seats and very comfortable. I just checked a magazine article that featured the car in 2001 and it said the following: "bone leather was stitched over '93 Lincoln Mark VIII power bucket seats". Sam Freeman of Sam's Trim Shop in Dallas, Georgia did the interior, according to the article and he did a great job.
When we did our "makeover", the carpet was a dull "Mercedes Mushroom Carpet", and it was OK and just needed a good cleaning, but we opted to go for new carpet in Daytona Weave Bronze from Auto Carpet Originals. After the carpet was changed to the bronze, the ivory leather "jumps out at you" and is ten times as nice as before adding the carpet.
I do all of my own carpet work, having the correct equipment and experience. It takes me 3 times as long as a trim shop, but I feel that the extra time is well spent. I just ordered the same carpet for my orignal Safari and will be installing it this summer, as love the look of the Daytona Weave, even though it is very difficult to work with.
Fred
-
Just one more idea, have you performed a manual adjustment on the shoes? I don't believe 57's had automatic adjusters and will require some adjustment ( relative to how much you've driven) from time to time.
After we installed the new brake shoes, we adjusted the brakes and bled the lines. Allowed car to sit a couple of days and bled the lines again. We took it for a short drive and adjusted the brakes again. After I put on more miles, I will do another brake adjustment. Also I plan to try some of the possible solutions that were posted.
Thanks for the ideas.
Fred
solid restoration ready projects
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Sorry you had no replies, but times are different than a couple of years ago. Antique car prices are down 50% or more, and there are few buyers. It is not a good time to try to sell a car, a house or anything else now. However, suggest the following:
a) Put the price of each car in the ad - you did this, which is good.
c) Pictures are most important and while not always easy for many to do, can be done - You may want to ask a friend who is familiar with doing so to help you and you will need digital pictures of the correct size. Pictures should show all sides of the car, engine compartment, interior, trunk area and chrome at a minimum. Without pictures, doubt if you will get replies. In today's market, even posts with pictures and accurate description often receive no replies. Look at other for sale ads to get some ideas.
d) When selling a car, a very detailed description is absolutely necessary, and might create some interest. At minimum you should list the overall condition of each car, features, known history if available, whether cars have clear titles, how stored, do they run and if not, how long since they ran, condition of chrome, body, tires, engine, paint and interior and anything else that you can think of. I always suggest to sellers on eBay and auto forums to "write a book". The more you describe, the better will be the results.
e) If you do not receive any replies, always wait at least a week or two before posting again, or what they call "btt" (bring to top). Doing this too soon is not recommended and when you do post again, be sure to give more information than at present (see above suggestions). Some post a reduced price.
BJM's post was right on target and his advice was quite accurate, and to me seemed very polite. Perhaps you expected too much too soon? All of our detailed suggestions are simply offered to give you an idea of how to post if you want to sell a car or cars. But please keep in mind that even if you do everything right, it is not easy to sell in today's market. Buyers are few and far between.
Of course following our advice requires that you find a new keyboard for your computer, or have a friend post the information for you. As your post was originally written, doubt if you will receive any interest. Sorry our forum didn't work out for you, but contrary to your observations there are many, many friendly foks on this site. Maybe not necessarily buyers, but certainly friendly. Good luck,
Fred