Fred Zwicker
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Posts posted by Fred Zwicker
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After downloading my car picture, completing the application, reading the terms and conditions and agreeing to such terms, waiting, and then submitting the application and more waiting, received the following message:
Sorry your application was interrupted and not downloaded - please resubmit your application.
Why is it that many of the things we do on the Internet do not work properly? I could have completed a written form in minutes, mailed it and relaxed. Now after spending at least 20 minutes, am back to square one. I like the idea of having my car picture on the card, but this is discouraging. I may try again, but not likely.
Fred
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On September 16-18, 2011 will be one of the nicest Concours d' Elegance shows in Ohio. Unusual and outstanding cars are brought in from all over the U.S. and are displayed on the grounds and golf course of the Glenmoor Country Club in the Canton, Ohio area. I have displayed some of my cars at this show and can say that it is not just an ordinary car show. There is a tour, seminars, many displays and tents, great food and drinks, a silent auction in the country club main building and an auto auction on Saturday afternoon.
Vehicles shown at Glenmoor are outstanding and the judging is on Sunday. If you haven't been to Glenmoor yet, you may want to include it in your plans for the fall. Concours is open to the public starting at 10 AM on Sunday, September18th. There is a Buffet Lunch from 11 am to 3 pm (a bargain at $20).
See www.glenmoorgathering.com for furher details and driving instructions. This year I will be displaying my outstanding original 1958 Continental 2dr hard top and my son will be displaying two of his prize-winning street rods (Recognizing the work that goes into modified cars, Glenmoor even has a "Mild to Wild" class).
Fred
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I had a similar problem on a '58 Continental - the pedal wouldn't come back and as a result the brakes were dragging. The good thing about it was that others had looked at and driven this car and wouldn't buy it because of what turned out to be a very minor probem with an easy fix. I probably saved thousands of dollars on my purchase price by taking a chance with this car. Otherwise the car was near-perfect.
I called a friend who rebuilds treadle vacs and he reommended a return spring be added under the dash, similar to a spring on the gas pedal of older cars. In less than one hour we located and installed this spring and the brakes are now perfect. However in the process of installing the return sping, noticed that there was a small under-the-dash metal panel that was hanging down rubbing against the top of the gas pedal rod, so we are not sure if that was causing the trouble. Either way, a return spring is easy to install and just might do the trick. Let us know what you do to fix this and good luck!
Pictures of my Continental attached, which will be shown on September 18th at the Glenmoor Gathering concourse show in Canton, Ohio. See www.glenmoorgathering.com
Fred
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Here are 4 more pictures that might show the rotisserie mounting better. Also some pictures taken last week to show that we are making some progress. Car has been painted, sanded and buffed and reassembly process started. We had to take a couple days off this week to paint our car show display trailer, as it needed to be spiffed up for Hershey.
Fred
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We have a lot of pictures of my '54 Buick 2dr. Special Riviera Special on a rotisserie on Facebook. See Tip Plus Corp. dba Tp Tools & Equipment - Company - Canfield, OH | Facebook and then click on "Wall" on left side of page - many pictures. Arrow down until you find the 1954 Buick restoration. If you can't find them, send me a message and I will forward some pictures tomorrow, or first of next week. I will have to ask our body man about the centering, as this is beyond my scope. Here are three pictures taken a couple of weeks ago. As you can see, we have our hands full.
Fred
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Back a lot further than I want to admit, I did a "body-off" restoration of my first antique vehicle - a 1929 Model A Closed Cab Pickup. We went all the way with the restoration - new Rock Moss Green Lacquer paint with black fenders, new wood in the back, new interior, new plating. The project took over a year and when finished was truly show quality. One day I decided to drive it to work. I was parking the truck and saw one of our employees walking up the sidewalk on the other side of the street.
I said to him, "Marvin - how to you like my new truck?". He stared intently at the truck and finally said, "It's good enough to drive back and forth to work".
I guess it is all in the eyes of the beholder. I never forgot his words and have restored many cars since. When they are finished, I alway say, "It's good enough to drive back and forth to work".
Fred
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Good idea, but our knowledge of Studebakers would fit on a pin head! Our car museum in Canfield is open to the public every Saturday from 10 AM to 3 PM - Free admission. If coming from out of town, call ahead and we can usually get you in (except Mondays and Fridays). We just added a couple of cars ('63 Pontiac Bonneville HT and a 30 Model A Ford Tudor). Fred
See our cars at www.tpcarcollection.com
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Older restoration or not, the car is very nice. In checking the 2012 Collector Price Guide, a 1957 Studebaker V8 Golden Hawk 2 dr. Sport Hardtop (120.5" wheelbase) has a current value of:
Conditon #1 $48,000
Condition #2 33,600
Condition #3 21,600
Very few cars can be considered as Condition #1, so your car per pictures is probably a Condition #2. Under today's market conditions, you may have to deduct some from the above figures to make a quick sale. Others may offer additional ideas. Good luck - car is rare and desirable and a nice color combination.
Fred
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I had a similar experience with a '55 Pontiac Safari and also on a '58 Lincoln Continental. We thought it was in the ignition, even though both cars started easily and ran good at idle and low speeds.
When cars sit for many years, the fuel tank and fuel lines get gunked up. On the 58 Lincoln, we pulled the gas tank and it was full of crud, so we had it "renewed" and installed new fuel lines (as well as new brake lines). The car runs perfectly now and we didn't touch the ignition.
On the '55 Safari, we determined that the original fuel pump was full of gunk, but allowed just enough fuel to keep the car running at low speeds. We had no time to have the fuel pump rebuilt as were taking the car to The Glenmoor Gathering last fall, so installed an electric fuel pump. We did not touch the ignition. That solved the problem and we were able to drive the 60 miles to Glenmoor and back without incident. However, I plan to have the mechanical fuel pump rebuilt and will pull the fuel tank for inspection and/or renewal and will probably replace the fuel line, as old fuel causes plenty of problems, and the fuel today with Ethanol makes things considerably worse.
Since your car starts easily and idles OK and runs well at low rpms, I would take a good look at the fuel lines, fuel pump and tank. If you have the fuel pump rebuilt, or change fuel line rubber hoses, be sure that everything is for use with Ethanol fuel.
Fred
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Testing Information - Carter vs. Airtex:
I bought a P-60504 Carter Fuel Pump which is about the same pump as the P-60430 except that it operates on slightly lower pressure. Cost is slightly higher than the P-60430, but in appearance they are identical. I also bought an Airtex 8012 Fuel Pump. Both pumps were 12-volt versions. I did not yet install either pump as yet, but here is what I found. This is called the "Fred Zwicker" test (Not scientific, but significant when comparing the two pumps below).
Here are the tests on the Carter P-60504: (Carter P-60430 should be the same).
I stuck the outlet side of the pump in a small can of water and blew air through the pump from my mouth with as much force as possible. A few tiny amount of bubbles were noticed, but not a free flow of air as I was hoping for. There was plenty of resistance - almost no air was getting through the pump.
I then removed the pump from the water, dried it out and then with all of my lung power, sucked on the outlet side of the pump to see if I could pull any air through the pump. I am not sure how much suction I was able to furnish, but there was only a very small amount of air pulling through the pump. I did not feel that there was enough air being pulled to properly operate a car, especially when under a load such as rapidly accelerating or driving up a hill. My conclusion was that I did not want to install this pump and I did not do so.
Here are the tests on the Airtex 8012:
I stuck the outlet side of the pump in a small can of water and blew air through the pump from my mouth with as much force as possible. There was NO RESISTANCE - plenty of air was blowing through the pump.
I then removed the pump from the water, dried it out and then with all of my lung power, sucked on the outlet side of the pump to see if I could pull any air through the pump. I felt NO RESISTANCE and plenty of air was pulling through the pump. I was amazed at the difference. My conclusion is that I plan to install the Airtex Pump and if it works as expected on the first car, I will install it on others that require help.
I like to use the original mechanical pumps for normal operation, but like an electric pump for priming purposes and for use in the rare instance that I should get vapor lock. I run the power off the ignition switch through an in-line fuse to a secondary on-off switch and from that switch to the electric fuel pump near the gas tank. Some suggest a spring-loaded on-off switch for this purpose, which is a good idea, although in the case of vapor lock or should the mechanical fuel pump fail, a simple on-off switch might be better. I have this setup on one car and have no trouble in remembering to shut off the electrical fuel pump as soon as the car is running.
For those who want to use an electric pump instead of the original mechanical pump, suggest that the electrical pump be near the gas tank and a fused on-off switch installed as described above, but run the fuel line directly from the electrical pump to the carburetor. The mechanical pump should either be left on the engine as an ornament, or removed and a flat plate installed to block the opening. Some will "gut" the inside of the mechanical pump so that the original appearance is maintained, but if doing so, be sure that there is no possibility of fuel leaking into the engine.
Some users suggest installing a relay to provide power to the electric pump, but I have not had need for a relay on a 12-volt system, as the amperage is fairly low. Due to higher amperage with a 6-volt system, I would probably add a relay, or if not, would run a 12-gauge wire to the fuel pump. Others have suggested running the power through a switch on the oil pressure line, which isn't a bad idea, but is one more thing to fail. In my case, since I am running the electric fuel pump for starting purposes only, do not feel the need for this.
Fred
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Fred, first, E-8012 or EP-12 are 12 volt versions of the 6 volt type. My experience with the 8011 is that although it says it puts out 5-8 PSI, and 30 GPH, it only does it at the " out end " of the pump. By the time it travels to the carbs, I was getting less than 4.5 Psi and since it is for priming, it will be slowed by the mechanical pump, in addition. I recommend that you put a pressure gauge on the whole setup to reaffirm that the mech. pump is up to task as well. I get more pressure from my mech pump( just over 5 psi) than the electric. At the least, try the combination without a regulator first.
E-8012 and EP-12 ?? Are these "free flow through" type 12-volt fuel pumps that will allow fuel to flow through when turned off and the mechanical fuel pump is operating? As I said, I am trying to keep it very simple, withouit having to add bypass, check valves or pressure regulators. If either of the above will work as "free flow" it doesn't matter if the fuel runs back towards the tank or if fuel evaporates in the carburetor.
Thanks to all for the feedback - greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Fred
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Walter -
Thanks for your ideas on the subject. I have a 1966 Cadillac and it starts fairly quickly after sitting for weeks or even months, so assume my '58 Lincoln will do the same. I may try this option, as had the original Lincoln fuel pump rebuilt, but not connected as yet. My Pontiac Safari is anoher story - evidently the carburetor is allowing the fuel to drain back, which happens with many cars.
Ron - For my 6-volt 1947 Ford, which struggles to start after sitting for a month or so: I did a little research and it seems that the EP-11 is about 8 PSI, so would require a pressure regulator in line (more fittings and more possibilities of leakage, much the same as adding a bypass and check valve, as shown in attached picture). I am not sure of the output of the E-8011, but think it is less than the EP-11. Some mentioned an Airtex E-8902, which is supposed to be only 2.5 to 4 psi. Summit Racing sells this pump in a 6-volt version for $48.95 and claims 4 psi rating. Will any of these 6-volt pumps allow fuel to flow through when in the off position?
Joe - Both you and I have concern that the fuel might not pump well through the electric fuel pump when turned off, but it seems that there are different fuel pumps available and hopefully there might be one that will be "free flow" if such a pump exists. See my criteria below.
For my 12-volt cars (some require some help, as they sit in a museum for months and we are not crazy about removing air cleaners and priming manually, nor do we want to run down the battery or work the starter too hard to get the cars started. For these certain vehicles (including my Pontiac), would sure like to find some type of 12-volt "free-flow" electric fuel pump that could be installed in the rear of the car for priming and starting purposes only, wired through the ignition and also through an on-off switch under the dash. Turn on ignition, turn on switch to electric fuel pump for about a minute, start car, turn off electric fuel pump switch and go.
I first thought the Carter P60430 was the answer, but it puts out what might be excessive pressure at 6 psi, per Summit. I later found a Carter P60504 which is similar in appearance to the P60430 and I bought four of them (not yet installed). The P60504 is rated at only 4 psi (better than 6 psi) and is sold by Summit for $70.99, although I was able to locate elsewhere for less. I did not realize that the P60430 or the P60504 would not allow fuel to pass when in the off position. I opened the box and was able to suck some through the pump, but probably not enough for proper operation, particularly if under a load.
So back to my original criteria:
Is there any 12-volt electric fuel pump that will do the following?
Pressure: 4 psi or less, so as not to require a pressure regulator.
Operation: When in the off positiobn, alow fuel to pass through when using a mechanical pump.
Wiring: 12-volts, with or without a relay and to be wired through the ignition switch and then through a secondary fused on-off switch under the dash for vehicle operation using the mechanical pump.
Last Option: Install a bypass with check valve, as shown in attached picture, but it sure looks like a lot of connections and accordingly a high possibility of leakage. I am trying to keep it simple, as have several cars that need some help.
Yesterday I talked to Andrew at Midwest Early Ford who said they stocked electric fuel pumps in both 6-volt (EFP-9350-A6) and in 12-volt (EFP-9650-A12) that would allow fuel to pass when car is running. These are both $75. I have one on order in 6-volt to try a test. Since I doubt if Midwest Early Ford makes their own fuel pumps, expect that this pump will be a Carter or Airtex or other brand.
Ideas will be appreciated - Thanks.
Fred
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Electric Fuel Pump to be used for priming purposes only?
About a year ago, my '55 Pontiac Safari fuel pump failed , probably due to gunk from ethanol. 1955 Pontiacs have a 12-volt system. As the car was going to Glenmoor the next day, I purchased a Carter P60430 electric fuel pump and then drove the 60 miles to and from the Glenmoor show. *Note that I disconnected the fuel line to the original mechanical pump, and am using the electric pump alone. The original mechanical pump is not being used, but still in place. I think the Carter P60430 is rated at 4 - 6 PSI. This pump is wired through the ignition and an then through a fused on-off switch under the dashboard and no pressure regulator. Everything is working perfectly with this setup.
I also have a 1958 Lincoln Continental and it previously had a Bendix 12-volt electric fuel pump that was installed by the prior owner in the engine compartment, and the mechanical fuel pump was not hooked up. This electric fuel pump was clogged , so I installed new fuel lines and had the gas tank"renewed". I then removed the faulty Bendix electric fuel pump from the engine compartment and installed a new Carter P60430 electric pump near the gas tank. Since the fuel line to the original mechanical pump had already been disconnected, I am using the electric pump alone.
I had the mechanical pump rebuilt on both of these cars and plan to connect each mechanical pump to carburetor as was done originally. The fuel line that is running from the electric pump in the rear will connect to the inlet side of the mechanical pump. Once hooked up, hope to use the electric fuel pump for priming only.
I am wondering if my mechanical pump on each car will pull fuel through the P60430, which is about 2" diameter and about 4 or 5" long? See attached picture. Both of my above cars are wired through the ignition switch and also through a secondary on-off switch below the dash. Neither use a pressure regulator and both perform flawlessly at present. I do not use a relay, nor do I use an oil pressure switch, as some recommend. I later plan to add a similar setup to a 1947 Ford (6-volt), but will use a relay for that hookup, since 6-volts draw more amperage.
Has anyone on this forum used a Carter P60430 or Carter P60504 12-volt electric fuel pump in conjunction with a mechanical pump without any type of bypass or check valve setup? (Both the P60430 and P60504 look about the same, although the P60504 is rated at 4 PSI) I have such a setup on my 1939 LaSalle, using the electric fuel pump for priming purposes only, and running off the original mechanical fuel pump (no check valve or bypass). The electric fuel pump is near the gas tank. This is a 6-volt system. I do not recall the name or part number of this electric fuel pump, although purchased it from Coopers in California a few years back. I did not use a relay on the LaSalle, although plan to add one in the near future, due to it being a 6-volt system.
In any case, since my cars sit for extended periods of time, feel that an electric fuel pump is perfect for priming the car and then can be shut off and let the mechanical fuel pump supply the fuel. (No more removing the air cleaner and pouring in gas or starting fluid into the carburetor). However I am not sure if the mechanical pumps will pull fuel through certain electric fuel pumps when they are in the off position. Some say yes and have no trouble of any kind without any bypasses, check valves, or pressure regulators. Since I want this setup for priming purposes only, I am trying to keep it simple if possible. I guess what I need are the names and part numbers of electric fuel pumps that have been used in this manner.
Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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Why not install an electric fuel pump? When my newest DL6 arrived the previous owner had installed a rebuilt original fuel pump which may have worked okay out in CO but immediately gave me vapor lock problem here in hot humid CT. Fortunately he included the electric fuel pump he had removed. (It had been installed under the hood in plain sight by a previous owner.) I left the rebuilt pump for looks, by-passed it, and re-installed the electric pump hidden in front of the fuel tank.
Result? Goodbye vapor lock! Plus, I get better control priming the carb for start up, and purging the carb if I flood it. As a further bonus, the hidden toggle switch gives another ounce of theft protection.
My pump's a vintage Bendix of unknown age & reliability so I bought one of these to have an emergency back up: Fuel Pump Dodge Chrysler, DeSoto 1931 1930 1929 1928 | eBay
Electric Fuel Pump to be used for priming purposes only?
About a year ago, my '55 Pontiac Safari fuel pump failed , probably due to gunk from ethanol. 1955 Pontiacs have a 12-volt system. As the car was going to Glenmoor the next day, I purchased a Carter P60430 electric fuel pump and then drove the 60 miles to and from the Glenmoor show. *Note that I disconnected the fuel line to the original mechanical pump, and am using the electric pump alone. The original mechanical pump is not being used, but still in place. I think the Carter P60430 is rated at 4 - 6 PSI. This pump is wired through the ignition and an then through a fused on-off switch under the dashboard and no pressure regulator. Everything is working perfectly with this setup.
I also have a 1958 Lincoln Continental and it previously had a Bendix 12-volt electric fuel pump that was installed by the prior owner in the engine compartment, and the mechanical fuel pump was not hooked up. This electric fuel pump was clogged , so I installed new fuel lines and had the gas tank"renewed". I then removed the faulty Bendix electric fuel pump from the engine compartment and installed a new Carter P60430 electric pump near the gas tank. Since the fuel line to the original mechanical pump had already been disconnected, I am using the electric pump alone.
I had the mechanical pump rebuilt on both of these cars and plan to connect each mechanical pump to carburetor as was done originally. The fuel line that is running from the electric pump in the rear will connect to the inlet side of the mechanical pump. Once hooked up, hope to use the electric fuel pump for priming only.
I am wondering if my mechanical pump on each car will pull fuel through the P60430, which is about 2" diameter and about 4 or 5" long? See attached picture. Both of my above cars are wired through the ignition switch and also through a secondary on-off switch below the dash. Neither use a pressure regulator and both perform flawlessly at present. I do not use a relay, nor do I use an oil pressure switch, as some recommend. I later plan to add a similar setup to a 1947 Ford (6-volt), but will use a relay for that hookup, since 6-volts draw more amperage.
Has anyone on this forum used a Carter P60430 or Carter P60504 12-volt electric fuel pump in conjunction with a mechanical pump without any type of bypass or check valve setup? (Both the P60430 and P60504 look about the same, although the P60504 is rated at 4 PSI) I have such a setup on my 1939 LaSalle, using the electric fuel pump for priming purposes only, and running off the original mechanical fuel pump (no check valve or bypass). The electric fuel pump is near the gas tank. This is a 6-volt system. I do not recall the name or part number of this electric fuel pump, although purchased it from Coopers in California a few years back. I did not use a relay on the LaSalle, although plan to add one in the near future, due to it being a 6-volt system.
In any case, since my cars sit for extended periods of time, feel that an electric fuel pump is perfect for priming the car and then can be shut off and let the mechanical fuel pump supply the fuel. (No more removing the air cleaner and pouring in gas or starting fluid into the carburetor). However I am not sure if the mechanical pumps will pull fuel through certain electric fuel pumps when they are in the off position. Some say yes and have no trouble of any kind without any bypasses, check valves, or pressure regulators. Since I want this setup for priming purposes only, I am trying to keep it simple if possible. I guess what I need are the names and part numbers of electric fuel pumps that have been used in this manner.
Thanks,
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Some Forums hold For Sale Items only so long - it seems like 6 months to a year shouild be maximum.
Fred
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Thanks Steve - I will keep this in mind - still looking.
Fred
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Good news - my mechanic stopped at my house this AM and successrully installed the newly rebuilt fuel pump, which I was unable to do, due to arthritis in my hands. By luck, the push rod was at the low position, so didn't even have to bump the starter. We did a road test and all is OK. I am sure glad that I did not drive the car without installing the fuel pump, as could have done some damage. Thanks to all who provided advice on this forum.
If I were to do it again, would have squirted lots of oil into the opening, as had a slight clicking at startup, which disappeared after a few seconds. (We did oil the fuel pump lever, but did not squirt oil into the opening).
Fred
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Thank you both for the helpful advice. I did not mention, but have severe arthritis in my hands. I tried to install the newly rebuilt fuel pump several times, but did not feel that I was able to push the spring tension of the pump well enough to get it into place, prior to installing the two bolts. Since I did not want to damage anything, installed the plate (easy to do) and since my existing setup with eletric fuel pump was already working well, was planning on driving the car to work where we have plenty of space, as well as younger (stronger) hands to do this job.
(The golden years often make a simple job difficult and it doesn't get any easier).
Fred
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I had the fuel pump rebuilt for my '58 Continental, but was unable to install it at home, due to lack of tools and working space. I want to drive the car to work, where we can turn the crankshaft by hand, looking into the opening with a flashlight and mirror to get the rod from the camshaft (to the lever arm of the fuel pump) into the lowest position before installing the fuel pump. So I had a metal plate made at work and gasket to block the opening and installed this plate and ran the car at an idle and no leaks and no noises. Car will still run, as I have an electric fuel pump and fuel line hose to the carburetor.
I want to drive the car to work to install the newly rebuilt fuel pump this week (15 mile drive) and am asking for advice on what could go wrong, if anything. Attached are two pictures of the fuel pump blockoff plate and the area above the rod from the cam shaft to the lever arm of the fuel pump. If possible, I do not want to remove the rod from camshaft to bottom of fuel pump, which is under the round cover on this housing, as cover looks to be nice and tight and properly in place.
Thinking more about this, am wondering if the rod (without the resistance from the fuel pump lever, since only a blockoff plate) might start bouncing up and down at higher speed and hit the round cover which is above the top of the rod, damaging the cover, or camshaft and/or bending the rod. Is this possible, or will rod simply move up and down, causing no damage?
Thanks,
Fred
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Did the car have power steering? I am looking for the dual groove crank pulley for a 54 or 55 Buick with small engine and dual-groove crankshaft pulley. The second groove was for the power steering. Please let me know. Thanks,
Fred
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Yes, the jack base holds the wheel in place (ON A 55) The nut is the same size as the lug nuts (3/4") I have a spare nut if you need it.
Yes there probably would have been paint mist in the tire well, but you can't see it with the tire in place. (even with the whitewall out).
Thank you for the info - but wondering about "ON A 55". What about on a 1954? Is the nut just a lug nut, or is it different? I have seen some cars with a large wing nut to hold the spare tire in place also.
Fred
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Fred,
Below is a pic of the tire. This shows the proper mounting of the jack base.
Lastly, the paint in the spare tire well and the tire mounting bracket is red oxide primer color, NOT body color.
Looking closely at your trunk/tire picture, would you say that the metal part that is holding the wheel in place is the bottom base of the jack? It looks as if it has a hex headed threaded piece about an inch or so long to hold in place and I assume this was the same hex size as the wheel nuts??
The reason that I am asking about he base of the jack is that Mr. Earl just sent his "original" jack bag and in the inside top of this bag was a compartment that woulld probably have held the flat base, so am wondering about this? The bag that he sent is really neat and shouldn't be too hard to duplicate. I know it was only a Buick accessory, but for my car, that is what I want to hold the jack, as sure don't want it rattling around or damaging the new carpet that is soon to be installed.
Bob Darney, my body man worked his entire career at GM and is very familiar with the assembly and painting process. We were talking about the tire well and he felt that the inside of that well was undoubgtedly painted in red oxide primer, but as the inside surface of the trunk floor and the ribs were painted in body color at the same time as the body, it seems as if body color paint would have sprayed down inside the well - at least partially. Bob also said that in his opinion, different assembly plants may have done things slightly differently. It just doesn't seem practical that when painting the inside floor area of the trunk (which was probably previously primed in red oxide) that the painter would mask off the inside of the tire well so that that area would remain in primer with the floor in body color?
Food for thought.
Fred
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The 1937 Terraplane Owners Manual is online. It explains where the car serial number and the engine serial numbers are located. Terraplanes were desgnated as series 70 through 72 in 1937 and strangely, the Standard Catalog of American Motors only mentions the senior Hudson series in the early 30s. I don't know why. Anyway you can find what you want at:
Good luck, Joe
Since I learned to drive and took my driver's license test in my father's 1937 Terraplane, I carefully read the Terraplane Owners Manual and thank you for posting this information. Looking at the picture of the dashboard brought back some great memories.
My father purchased the car new in 1937 and kept it for over 10 years when the engine finally gave up. He had it rebuilt by a local mechanic, but the engine never ran right afterwards and the car was finally sold to someone who was going to install another engine, as the body was still in good shape. Father's car was a 2-door slope back sedan with the electric shift, which broke later and the accessory shifting rod was used for the remaining life of the car. As I recall, the dashboard wood graining was a thing of beauty. At the time, the car was quite fast and could keep up with most any other car. It also rode quite well and was a good car on the highway.
Fred
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They have nothing to do with the gasket. There is supposed to be rubber cast on the bottom and it is a bumper stop to prevent the lid edge from dinging the body. They are adjustable and are adjusted so they are slightly proud of the lid edge. I think Cars sells them or maybe Fusick.....................Bob
Thanks for the info, Bob. I looked in my CARS catalog - not shown, so I phoned Fusick and they had them in stock and will be shipping them the same day!
I am now wondering since these fit along the inside edge of the deck lid and after they are installed, how does the rubber trunk gasket fit over this? It seems as if they stick up a bit, so wouldn't the rubber gasket have to go over top of these? Am I missing something?
Fred
Want to Buy: 1939 LaSalle Wheel Covers
in Cadillac & LaSalle
Posted
Bill Hirsch in NJ has full wheel covers with center medallions for the '39 LaSalle - repros but very nice. Call him at 973-642-2402.
Fred