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joe_padavano

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Everything posted by joe_padavano

  1. You could get a column-shifted three speed manual in the D88 at least into the late 1960s, but I don't know if that was an option when the body style changed in 1971. In any case, the parts for the clutch linkage and shifter are extremely rare, plus I don't know if you wanted three-on-the-tree or a regular floor shifter. If you don't mind using aftermarket parts, you can convert to a manual trans with some work. First, you should know that if your engine orignally came with an automatic, the crankshaft will not be drilled for the pilot bushing needed for a manual trans. Most of the Olds performance houses (Mondello, Dick Miller, and others) sell a conversion bushing that will fit into an AT crank and allow you to install a manual trans. Unfortunately, this requires trimming a fraction of an inch off the end of the transmission input shaft. Next, you'll need to find or make a clutch pedal. You're on your own on this one; you'll probably need to adapt something from a 442. Since finding the original style clutch linkage will be virtually impossible, use a hydraulic throwout bearing such as the one sold by Howe. These are listed in the Summit catalog and fit over the input shaft on the trans, eliminating the need for a Z-bar and mechanical clutch linkage. You'll need to mount a clutch master cylinder on the firewall, but you can adapt the one from a Chevy truck. Next you'll need a manual trans flywheel, bellhousing, clutch, and pressure plate. The flywheel and bellhousing are available used on various auction sites. The clutch and pressure plate from a Cutlass/442 work fine. If you have a 350 motor, use a 10.5" clutch, for a 455 use the 11" clutch. Olds flywheels are drilled for both. The big decision will be the trans. Muncie 4-speeds are getting expensive. You may want to consider an aftermarket 5- or 6-speed if you're going through this much trouble. Depending on the trans you select, you may find that the crossmember lines up with existing holes in the frame. Otherwise, you'll need to drill new ones. You'll need to configure a shifter that clears your seat - I assume you have a bench. This requires cutting a hole in the floor and installing an aftermarket shifter boot. Again, depending on the trans you select and it's length, you may need a new driveshaft. Once the trans is installed, take the measurements to a driveshaft house for a new one. They can also set you up with the correct front yoke to match your trans. You'll need to get the right speedo drive and driven gears to match your rear axle ratio as well. Finally, depending on the trans length and crossmember location, you may need to get different length emergency brake cables. Joe Padavano
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