joe_padavano
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Posts posted by joe_padavano
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On 1/19/2024 at 5:53 PM, NTX5467 said:
DFIIERENT generation of Buick V-6, period!
Well, different induction system. The basic engine was the same 3.8 liter V6 Buick. The Series I 3800s (actually the LN3 motor from 1988 with a balance shaft) are considered to be a different generation. The early turbo motors used the draw-through Qjet. The 1984 GNs and T-types used the Sequential Fuel Injection and distributorless ignition.
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FYI, that's a body (technically the cab of the pickup), not the chassis (aka the frame).
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Correct, the easiest thing to do is to remove the door lock cylinder. The driver's side MAY have a four character lock code on it (GM stopped doing this regularly in the 1970s, but it may be there). If so, the code can be looked up in the Curtis Code Book, making it easy to cut a new key. If not, then it's only slightly more work to disassemble the cylinder to record which tumblers it uses. PM me for more info.
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Coming into this thread late, but your description sounds like a bad/leaking air admittance valve in the booster or a mis-adjusted pushrod between the booster and the pedal. The booster is just a diaphragm in a vacuum canister. With the brake pedal released, there should be engine vacuum on both sides of the diaphragm, so zero net force. When you press on the pedal, it opens an air admittance valve in rear side of the diaphragm. This closes the connection from the rear of the diaphragm to engine vacuum and allows atmospheric pressure to enter behind the diaphragm. With vacuum in front and 14-ish PSI in back, there is a net force on the diaphragm that applies the brakes. Yes, there is also a fail-safe rod that applies the brakes directly from the pedal if the booster fails or is not connected.
When you release the pedal, the air admittance valve closes to atmosphere and re-opens the connection to engine vacuum. This returns the booster to the un-applied state. If there is any leakage through this valve, the backside vacuum level won't be equal to the front, so there will be a net force on the diaphragm, causing the pedal to go down and the brakes to drag. The fact that this is engine heat related suggests two possible causes. First is that the pushrod from pedal to booster is just SLIGHTLY long, such that when cold it allows the valve to close, but once heated from engine exhaust pipes below the booster, the rod expands just enough to cause the air admittance valve to leak. The other possibility is that the valve itself is defective and again closes fully when cold but leaks a little as parts heat up and expand.
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4 hours ago, Jim Skelly said:
I went to a swap meet last Sunday in Monroe, Michigan. Lot of parts looked like they were pulled out of a barn or swamp after decades. There was no attempt to clean wheel covers, for example. Few items had prices posted, and many parts in NOS boxes were not identified. It would have been a total waste of time driving almost 40 miles if not for hanging out with my buddy and then having a nice meal afterward.
These are the swap meets I prefer. When a seller takes the time to carefully clean and polish the items, individually tag them, and arrange them in a point-of-sale display, the price goes up accordingly. Sorry, but I'm a cheap SOB.
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15 hours ago, bob71GS said:
I don't know if the 67's had a relay that might be mounted just above the emergency brake mechanism. My powers windows on my 71 stopped working and it was the relay. this is what it looks like.
Robert Bonto
There's only one relay for ALL the windows. If any windows work, the relay is not the problem. People need to look at the wiring diagram.
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Gasket between what and what? Between the glass and the metal or between the two l layers of metal? There should be sealer between the layers of metal and urethane between the glass and the metal.
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Since we are near gate 3, we saw vendors loaded up and apparently heading out. This is unfortunate but unfortunately not unusual. As Craig said, Saturday may be the nicest day since Tuesday.
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I've bought generic DeWalt 18v batteries and have been extremely disappointed. I finally got one of the adapters to use the 20 volt batteries and that works great.
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We've been set up since Tuesday afternoon. Sales have been good, my buying even better. The weather has been good so far. There was a pretty good rain overnight Wednesday, but it had stopped by morning. So far this has been a good show. People are actually buying parts again.
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23 minutes ago, EmTee said:
Perhaps a bit harsh, but I get your point. On the other hand, I don't see a problem asking a question like that on a forum like this - particularly when it comes to electrical issues. There can be dozens of reasons why something like a window stopped working, but it can be helpful to reach out to learn about the most common causes for a particular make/model, as that can allow even someone with reasonable expertise to focus their investigation and save some troubleshooting time...
Asking the question isn't the problem. How does the person asking know which answers are correct and which are BS? (OK, there's an 80% chance of BS).
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8 hours ago, Deadpurpledog said:
passenger side power windows of 67 Riviera stopped working. While front window had a pause. . .both worked well. Funny both went dead at the same time. Is there a fuse for these? What else might cause this, please?
Look at a wiring diagram (in the Fisher Body Manual) and locate the wire or connector that is common to that side of the car. GM didn't fuse the two sides separately (and used a self-resetting) circuit breaker anyway) so that won't be the problem. Asking the interwebs for help will get you a huge number of incorrect suggestions. Troubleshooting with a test light is the only way to fix this problem.
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Your aftermarket brake system has a number of mismatched parts. That cast iron combination valve is factory-issue GM from the early 70s. The master cylinder appears to be an aftermarket replacement for Ford. I'd certainly start with the front brake hoses (and replace them both if there's any question). Beyond that, start at the combo valve and loosen both of the output lines to the front brakes. You should get fluid at both of them. If not, there's a blockage in that valve - and water in the brake fluid does cause that cast iron housing to rust.
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More rearranging the deck chairs. Stay tuned for the re-org announcement next.
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I'll add that if you've ever pulled the check valve out of the brake booster with the engine running, the massive vacuum leak that results will usually kill the engine.
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52 minutes ago, human-potato_hybrid said:
I know, but the vacuum port on the carb goes to below the throttle plates. So that's after the carb.
You are correct. If there is additional air coming into the manifold through a vacuum operated accessory, that will cause a lean condition unless compensated for in the carb. Using the vacuum brake booster as an example, there are vacuum chambers on both sides of the diaphragm, and both are evacuated by manifold vacuum. When you apply the brakes, an air admittance valve closes the connection from the rear chamber to the intake and opens a valve to atmosphere. The 14.7 psi on the rear side of the diaphram provides the brake assist. When you release the pedal, the air admittance valve closes and that chamber is again connected to manifold vacuum. Yes, this small additional air volume enters the engine after the carb metering circuits, so yes it makes a tiny change to A/F ratio. The actual air volume is a small fraction of a cubic foot, so in terms of CFM into the engine from this "leak", the air volume is meaningless. Vacuum wipers use a fraction of the air volume that the power brake booster uses, though the do tend to operate for a much longer period of time. Again, the CFM number is negligible.
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I certainly have never taken a hammer to a Qjet air horn.
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7 hours ago, Deadpurpledog said:
I understand your perspective, Joe. You’re probably right for auto mechanics and those who have worked with cars for years. You might want to consider the rest of us. People who like to drive and enjoy classics. People who may know a few things . . .or not. . And either way don’t work much on their cars. We need others to help us. Do you know how difficult it is to find a truly excellent carburetor mechanic? More, to find an honest one? Any idea how much money and time that search can consume?
I can recommend a few Qjet experts who I trust.
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1 hour ago, Hazdaz said:
With a carb you essentially have one dumb nozzle for the cold or when hot or when at fuel throttle or when idling with no feedback.
Even as a simplification, this is completely incorrect. Even the "calibrated leak" Holley carbs have separate idle, main, and power metering systems. The Quadrajet has significantly more sophisticated metering capability that that.
People who think they need to have a computer to meter fuel don't realize that a carb IS a computer - it is a mechanical, analog computer. There's nothing wrong with analog computers. We designed a whole lot of sophisticated aircraft and missiles using analog computers and flew them with analog systems. As an example of the sophistication of the Qjet, those flapper doors above the secondary throttle bores are not vacuum operated, contrary to popular belief. They are a mechanical mass airflow sensor. The secondary metering system is actuated by this mass airflow sensor, as a cam on the shaft for those doors has a cam that moves the secondary metering rods. These tapered rods are contoured to match the fuel requirements of the engine that the carb is calibrated for. This is exactly the same as how EFI works, the EFI needs someone to create an injector duty cycle map vs MAF for the engine in question. Will your one-size-fits-none EFI have a map that's as well-matched to your engine as Rochester did for every single engine GM made? Doubtful.
If you want EFI to show off at cruise night, it's your money. Just don't kid yourself that it will be as well calibrated as the OEM carb on a relatively stock engine.
By the way, I should point out that the E-brock carbs are simply less-sophisticated versions of the Qjet. They have similar primary metering rods but fixed jets on the secondary side. They also don't have the precision triple venturies that the Qjet has on the primaries. And yeah, a brand new carb out of the box probably WILL run better than your neglected, crusty, leaking original, even if it isn't properly tuned. That doesn't mean it's correct.
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2 hours ago, TAKerry said:
I have nothing against the FI, but I also believe that if the carb and motor are properly tuned there should not be a problem. When I restored my Trans Am I had planned on adding FI. Only because it was what every one was doing, and all the tv shows were pushing it (I was still very green, now Im just an offshade of a near ripe bananna). I talked to my builder and he convinced me he could tune my Q jet carb the way it was intended to be, and I would be just as happy. I stuck with the carb. My car runs perfect, starts easily, even when cold and setting for longer than I want. Most people I talk to at shows with FI say 'their car starts easy now, and the motor runs smooth'. I get that out of mine as well. If thats the way you want to go thats great. I am glad it has worked out. But for those on the fence, get your carb tuned up properly and you may be surprised.
^^^THIS! I remain amazed that people who can't figure out how to rebuild and tune a simple carb think that a far more complex (and significantly less transparent) aftermarket throttle body fuel injection system will be easier for them. I'm sure it works great out of the box. How will it be a year or two from now when the injectors get gummed up with deposits from crappy fuel and the unobtanium gaskets dry out? What happens when the electrical connections start to corrode and you have to chase down those intermittent problems? Sorry, but no aftermarket system has even a fraction of the engineering and testing that went into OEM hardware, especially a one-size-fits-none aftermarket EFI system.
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1 hour ago, rocketraider said:
17057204 is for 1977 Chevrolet 350 engines with automatic transmission. It's a smog era carb and lists for just about every carline Chevrolet made in 77.
While the 1977 Qjet is a smog-era carb, it is probably one of the desirable 800 CFM versions. Earlier Qjets were 750 CFM. The only way to know for sure is to look down the primary bores.
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1 hour ago, ABear said:
Its been better part of 40 yrs ago since I worked on a Ford inline six, there could be a small relief on the cam side and no relief on the bearing side. But, from what I remember there was a set of holes drilled at 90 degrees in the cam. which lines up with the two holes on the rear bearing.
The rocker shaft is hollow, it fills with oil and acts as a reservoir for the rockers so rockers will always have oil present even when the cam holes are not in alignment with the bearing holes. The cam in some respects regulates the pressure and quantity of oil getting to the rockers depending on engine RPMs.
The rockers require pressurized oil to act as the bearing, same as the mains and rods. A reservoir in the shaft won't be pressurized if the oil from the cam bearing is only pressurized once per rev. Any cross-drilling would be to improve oil flow, but the groove in the journal is the full-time pressurized passage.
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15 hours ago, ABear said:
No internal groove means the cam is required to have a cross drilled end.
Incorrect. The rocker shaft requires oil constantly, not just every turn of the cam. Watch this video, at 4:58 you can see that the rear journal of the cam has a circumferential oil groove that provides continuous connection between the two oil holes in the bearing.
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11 hours ago, Richard805 said:
I've a 1953 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe that might need the torque converter fixed.
Does anybody know where I can send it to be rebuilt?
Try Fatsco.
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Station Wagon ID
in What is it?
Posted
1969 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser. The taillights are 68/69 but only the 1969 cars had the two-way tailgate.