Tacoma

Nic Thanks for the great info. I just looked up SEM's web site and I think they have just what I'm looking for. I'll call Sherwin/Williams (Their Distributor here) tommorow. Jerry

Getting ready to clean my engine compartment. Any recommendations as to what products to use (or not use) and precautions to take. Thanx

An auto detailer I talked to about cleaning my 90 Reatta wheels says the following: The center cap is plastic (I took one off for him to inspect) He said I would ruin it if I tried to remove the clearcoat. I think it's a plastic frame with a thin alumium cover over the plastic frame, and that the clearcoat could safely be removed,the cap (fine scratches) cleaned and then be re-clearcoated. Has anyone tried this. He also says the inside of the wheel spokes have a light gray painted finish to them and the clearcoat cannot be removed without damaging this painted finish.

Just purchased a new front bumper rub strip through my buick dealer. It came in black and unpainted. I need to paint it the shiny black color to match the other moldings. Is there a special type of paint that I should use. I'm afraid that any paint I use will crack from movement if I paint it prior to painting it before it goes on the bumper. Or should try to paint it after it's installed.

Is it feasable to reverse the page mumbering system on this forum? (ie: This would be page 301 and the first page would be number 1) It seems like it would be much easier to do research if the pages and data were in reverse order and constant, and that page 17 data always stayed with page 17 as an example. And don't get me started on the search engine. Any thoughts anyone.

Tammy After raising your top and locking the front in place, The window and 5th rib (5th rib is the bottom one under the window)should be at a 45% angle to the tonnu cover which should by now be down and locked. Release the 5th rib and window using the red latch inside the car. Hold the 5th rib about 8 inched above the tonnu cover and slam it into the locks using both hands. If you lower the 5th rib and window to the point where it touches the tonnu locks it's harder than hell to get locked. This is from the instructions in an old Reatta sales training film I have. It will not damage anything as harsh as it may seem. It works like a charm.

Kayleen (My wife) and I live in Tacoma Wa. About 40 miles south of Seattle. We will also be attending this our first BCA (or Reatta) meet and will be more than glad to assist in any way possible to make it succesful. Jerry Vaughan (tacoma) E-mail frogsday@msn.com

Looking for enough Tan cloth to re-do all speaker grills in my 90 red/Tan/Tan vert. also looking for some of the black paper tape used on the shifter. Can e-mail me at frogsday@msn.com

Looking for enough Tan cloth to re-do all speaker grills in my 90 red/Tan/Tan vert. also looking for some of the black paper tape used on the shifter. Can e-mail me at frogsday@msn.com

Lately I have been getting some confusing information with regard to entering my Reatta at the BCA National meet in Seattle. I will be driving it to Seattle. These are the classes I want to enter: 1.(Possible Driven Class) It is un-restorded 2.(Possible Un-restored class) and for a real good critical review 3.I thought about the 400 point class.These are a few of the 5 classes shown on the BCA entry form. On one hand I have been told that I can only enter one class. and then again I have been told that I could enter all 3 of the classes I've mentioned above. I want to get the entry form that came with this month Bugle completed and turned in, but need help.

See what you've started Tammy. Gas in the Seattle Tacoma area is $3.45 for Regular. I did find a discount "Union 76" at $3.36. I think it's all those Microsoft millionairs running the price up. Sorry, That sounded like a young Tommy statement.

Kimm What are you asking for your reatta? cou you either post some pictures or e-mail me at frogsday@msn.com Thanks Jerry

Kimm What are you asking for your reatta? cou you either post some pictures or e-mail me at frogsday@msn.com Thanks Jerry

Looking for an original Reatta Flashlight.

Looking for an original Reatta Flashlight.

Will be replacing my battery with an original Delco for judging but do not know exactly which Delco came with the 90 Reatta when new. Also need to know what brand and type tires were original and are they still made and available? Need some help with this one. Also I have never shown a car before, Need a judging manual or something that tells me what will be looked at in Seattle. Even an individual with judging background, or some of you who have been through this before. I am having the scratches removed and have decided to have the front cowling removed and repainted. What do I need to tell the shop with regard to original paint specs? I have a decal on the left and right window thich states that "This vehicle is equiped with a factory installed anti-theft system" Are these original. If so I need one new one as the right side is partialy gone. Wow, a lot of needs. Thanx

First my sincere thanks to Jon, JWC and Jim Finn for their great imput regarding my question on the coil and module assembly. JWC, Your reference to Padgett's article was very informative and interesting.but it also raised another question of judging. I'm prepareing my reatta to show, possibly this year in Seattle. Can anyone tell me if points will be deducted if I switch to to the Delco coil (which seems to be the better coil) Or should stay with an original good new or usedMagnavox which can still be obtained.

I'm leaking a creamy color substance from my Ignition coil assembly. The Buick dealer wants an arm and first born for it. I think it's an AC Delco, Mfg by Magnavox. I have three part numbers as follows: Coil 12353801, Gasket 25526450, Module 24503623. Does anyone know if these numbers are correct for my 90 Reatta and a reasonable source. Jerry

Thanks for the info guy's and Tammy thank you. I think there are very valid points on both sides of the coin. Tacoma.

By now many of you have seen the 90 S/S w/73K miles for sale on the Buy/Sell forum and E-Bay. I have been in the market for either one for some time and am in the process of talking with a seller of a 91 white/white/red vert with 38K miles in prety good condition. Now I see the 90 S/S for sale. I need your wisdom and thoughts. Which would you buy and why? Which do you think is the better investment in the long run. How many 90 white/red verts were manufactured. Tammy, Is this in about the same price range as your S/S. I can't recall what your milage or condition was. Thanks all. Jerry in Tacoma.

"REATTA---Coming Of Age In The 21st Century"

I purchased my second 90 red drop top about 6 months ago. Drove it back from Santa Barbara with no problem. But in buying it I called the buick dealer and another independent shop in Santa Barbara to check on there Inspection fee's Made the deal with the seller at 9K if all was in acceptable condition. He took it to the Dealer and then to the other shop. The Buick dealer and the other shop sent me (Because I paid the $65.00 inspection fee)the report. Needed about $400.00 worth of work, but nothing that would prevent it from being driven back to Washington.Most of the Items were normal maintenance. I had all the fluids changed prior to the trip back. The car had 44K miles on it. On the other hand, At Barret Jackson in Jan I looked at a white vert that had 10K miles on it and was in pretty much show condition. It brought 22K. My offer would start at 10 to 12K. Have it inspected by a good shop though, and mabe two for compairson sake. At 50K miles 22 is way out of line in my opinion. I'm now looking at a 91 white vert at 15 thousand with 33K miles. Good luck Jerry

I will be attending with my 90 red rider vert. I have a little work to do on it but hope to have it in show condition by then. Jerry and Kayleen in tacoma WA. PS: Photo available on whare in the world.

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