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32Pontiac6

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Posts posted by 32Pontiac6

  1. I assume you mean 1931... ;)

    Cable brakes.  The 1931 had Midland Steeldraulic brakes.  They are a single shoe brake.  They work very well and are easy to adjust.  You just need a special pliers to adjust.  They are fairly common on eBay.

    The ‘31 did not have synchromesh in any gear.  The 1932 Pontiac had synchromesh in 2nd and 3rd.  That was the first year synchro was in a for Pontiac.

    The engine is rated 60 HP at 3000 rpm.  With the differential ratio (4.55 to 1) and tire size speed is approximately 20 MPH per 1000 rpm.  So at 45 mph you are only running at about 75% of rated RPM.  I have both a ‘30 and ‘32 Pontiac and 45 MPH is a very happy speed for these cars.  I have taken both of them up to 50+ for short distances on the California Freeways (at times of minimal traffic).  The ‘32 has a higher hp and operating point (65 hp at. 3200) and will cruise comfortably about 5 mph faster than the ‘30.  I have not driven a ‘31 so I can only do the math and figure it would be very similar to a ‘30 based on the specifications.

     

    I have a website:     Pontiacsplithead.com that has reference material for ‘26-‘32 Pontiacs.  I have an operators manual for ‘30 and ‘32 on the site as well as sales literature for ‘30-‘32.  The sales literature has pretty detailed specifications for the cars.  Check back to the site from time to time because I am going through all my literature and am trying to post new content weekly or at least a couple of times a month.

     

    Do you have one of these cars now or are you thinking of one?

     

  2. The parts book is unclear on impellers for ‘30 and I didn’t think that later impellers will fit based on the parts book data.  The vanes should face the block on a splithead pumps.  Depending on how bad the imperfection is on the impeller, I have used JB Weld to fix with some success.  The impellers seem to always have some pitting and I have used it like filler on them to smooth out the vanes and help flow (how much I don’t know).  The parts book does show that the bodies of the pump are the same from mid ‘29 (engine number 490158) through ‘31.  They changed in ‘32 to have a distribution pipe that brings water to the rear head for better cooling.  If my memory serves me correctly the impellers from about mid ‘29 through ‘32 are actually the same.

    I checked the impeller I have in the shop and it is slightly less than 3” and the shaft is .5.

     

    Hope this helps.

  3. I live at sea level so my data may not equate to higher elevations.  Your boiling point will be closer to 200 than 212 in an unpressurized system like we have.  I have both a '30 and '32 6 cyl.  Both cars run cool.  My '32 generally runs 180 degrees and on the hottest days - (95-100) it might get up to 190.  The '30 does not have a thermostat so it runs even cooler.

     

    My gut tells me that your car has a thermostat in it and that you are seeing temperature after it opens.  If the cooling system is working well even with a 180 degree idle the car should run fairly cool.  The combination of splithead 6 engine and crossflow radiator make for a very efficient cooling system.  Overheating is not something I worry about.

     

    I hope that helps.

    Rob

     

  4. Some people, in the past, have registered their car with the engine number.  I don't like that because if you ever have to change the engine you have a problem.  The number that Kornkurt illustrates is, in my opinion, the best number to use for a VIN.  I had a '30 Pontiac that had the engine number as the VIN and I was able to change it to the number on the frame.  

    Beautiful and rare car there.

     

    • Like 1
  5. Pontiacs had torque tube setups from their start in 1926 through 1928.  They went to Hotchkiss drive in 1929 with the Series 6-29 cars.  

     

    The early torque tube carrier and torque tube was part number 342495 for '26-'28

    There was one with a different gear ration than standard in 1928 that had part number 526562

     

    Those numbers should be stamped someplace on the casting, I believe.

     

    Hope this helps.  As Mr. Kornkurt says, photos might be helpful.

     

  6. Another thing to put in the back of your mind is that the impeller and shaft is the same for '29-'32 (Group 1.003 and Part Number 526856).  The difference is the body.  The '32 is particularly unique because it has a water distribution tube that daylights at the pump and brings water to the rear head area.  So finding an old pump from that series will allow a spare impeller and shaft.  My other bias is that I like the old packing over mechanical seals.  I have some Chevy friends who have used mechanically sealed pumps with great success.  I replaced the mechanical seal on my '32 and it failed.  I have gone back to the old packing and it works fine.  I think the problem with packing is that owners have never replaced it and it is a bit of a mystery to them.  Once you get the right packing and use it a time or two you realize that it is a good and simple solution.  I run packing in both my '30 and '32.  My two cents worth.

      

  7. I am looking for information and a source for adjusting screws for Chrysler lifters on flathead engines in the mid to late 1930's.  I have a 1932 Pontiac and when the engine was rebuilt the adjustors from a mid to late 30's Chrysler engine were used.  However, I do not have records of what year adjustor was used.  I just remember them being from the later 1930's.  The advantage of these is that they do not have the locking nut to hold their adjustment.  The Chrysler ones stay when adjusted.  I am working on the valve train on my 1930 Pontiac 6 and was thinking of replacing the adjustors with the Chrysler ones.  The adjustors for the Pontiac are 3/8" diameter, 7/8" to the bottom of the head and 1-1/16" overall length.  They are 24 threads per inch.  I have attached photos and dimensions of the lifters and adjustors.  

    Any assistance finding these would will be greatly appreciatedl.  New or used would be fine.

     

    IMG_4058.jpg

    IMG_0535.JPG

    IMG_0533.JPG

  8. You know I have seen this before... but what I never noticed was the oil distribution photo.  It does not show the camshaft being pressure lubed.  That correct?  I know with the '32 there is pressure to the cam as well as spray to the area of the drive gear for the distributor.

     

    Thanks for posting.  My splithead website (in embryotic form) is about ready to release to with some minimal information.  This would be something good for me to post.

     

  9. The '29 Pontiac and '30 Oakland front brakes do not interchange.  The 1930 Oakland was a V-8 and at least 500 lb heavier and 7" longer than the Pontiac.  Parts book confirms no interchangeability.

     

  10. I am replacing the running board mat on my 526 sedan. I have found the top material from Restoration Supply but am looking for the material under the mat. From the attached photo it looks like a burlap material. Does anybody have a source for this original material or is there a more modern material that will work better?

    Any experience/help will be appreciated.

    Rob

    I am replacing the running board mat on my 1928 Packard 526 Sedan.  I have found the mat material from Restoration Supply matches what I have there now.  But I need to get the material that goes under the matting.  From the attached photo it looks to be a burlap type material.  Does anybody know a source of this material or is another more modern material used?

    Any help will be appreciated.

    Rob

     

    IMG_8484.jpg

  11. That is a good suggestion.  I had somebody invite me to check out that site when I first got the car and have not done it.  I looked at the '29 colors and there are a couple that were used in '28 so I have a couple of more pieces of the puzzle.  I don't know why I am spending so much time with this since I don't plan to paint the car right now.  It may be a long while before I get to that job.  The car is a running 'barn find' but somebody painted the wheels a terrible yellow along the way and I am putting on new tires and figure it is a good time to powder coat the wheels the original color. 

    Thanks for your recommendation.  I have attached a photo of the car.  It has 30,000 miles on and aside from the brushed paint job it is all original.  Amazing interior for a 92 year old car.

    Image.thumb.jpeg.eb6bd9055aeae0fcc2a1f9547c2640bd.jpeg

    • Like 1
  12. Does anybody have a copy of the paint colors (chips not words)  available on a 1928 526 closed car (303)?  I have descriptions of the paint schemes with the names of the colors but no idea what the colors look like.  I have attached a photo of the back of one of the wheels of my car and I think it may be Chicadee Green.   Does anybody have information to confirm this?  Also, does anybody know if there are paint codes somewhere on the body?  I found the plate with serial number and body number in the rear passenger compartment but I can't find any reference to paint codes.  I find that interesting because my Pontiacs from that era had plates on the main sill with the paint code for that car and I find it surprising that Packard would not have something on the car.

     

    Any help appreciated.

     

    Rob

    Image-2.jpeg.6c01ed861b8c62a3315b92061318295d.jpeg

  13. Looking at the Oakland Pontiac shop manual for '30-'32 you see what appears to be a change from the photo posted by Tinindian which looks like it has lugs tightened by screws on top of the spark plugs.  The engine photo from the manual for '32 shows what appears to vertical slide on ends on the wire.  I have also enclosed a photo of my '32 to show the type of wire I think is appropriate for '32.  I did not use the same ends as those pictured in the manual.  The bulk wire and ends are available from several places.  Two that I have used are California Pontiac Restoration (www.PontiacParts.net) and Restoration Supply (https://restorationstuff.com).

    I hope this helps.

     

    IMG_8126.thumb.jpg.36ae9602363527f8ed1d5ecb7b6c957e.jpgIMG_8127.thumb.jpg.3192ffe5f4be364ec9909d3f0ab05ca7.jpg

  14. It seems like the US made 1930 Pontiac Custom Sedan (6-30B -  30309) had ash trays on each side of the rear seat.  No ash tray on the back of the seat.  There is no ash tray in the front, which surprised me.  What really bugged me about the difference between Chevrolet and Pontiac of that era is that Chevy's had trip odometers and Pontiacs did not.  

     

     

    1930 Pontiac -4.JPG

  15. On 11/15/2019 at 2:49 AM, DavidMc said:

    Unfortunately I do not have the same lubrication diagram for the 5th Series cars but I doubt there would be a difference bearing in mind the the 633/626 cars were essentially 526/526 cars with an 8 cylinder engine squeezed into the engine bay.  Also I would reuse your dripper, the slight difference in drip rate (if it is not the recommended one is unlikely to be critical).  I would be more concerned with oil reaching every drip point.

    That is my longer term plan.  I believe that mine has 31 points of lubrication.  Thankfully the chassis seems pretty well 'wet' in the critical areas.  There are a couple that concern me and I will pull the connection to make sure it is working.  My biggest concern is the release bearing and making sure it is wet.

    Thanks again for all your help.

     

  16. 22 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

    The advantage of the Bijur system is that heavy oil is a better lubricant than grease. But needs to be renewed more often. There were no sealed joints in those days so whatever lubricant you used, it was going to leak out. Greasing was recommended every 1000 miles or so, oiling oftener. So the automatic system was a convenience.

     

    In those days there were a lot of dirt and gravel roads and all cars leaked oil. So a few more drips made no difference.

     

    If you wanted to use the system in your garage you could get some old carpet from a carpet store's discards and lay a plastic sheet under it.

    I have used the Costco 'pee pads' they sell for dogs.  

     

  17. 20 hours ago, DavidMc said:

    I use the pump when leaving home for a drive so that most of the leakage has finished before returning.  A post on the PI site some time ago, advised that straight 50 grade oil is the closest modern equivalent  to the original Bijur oil.

    Yes, that is what I do too.  However, in California, that may be a capital offense.  

  18. 2 hours ago, DavidMc said:

    The flat end goes into the fitting , see the attached drawing .   

    Its a total loss lubrication system, what goes in drips out.  I have restored the Bijur systems on 2 Packards and had everything working before fitting the body but over time the drips no longer come from all of the lubrication points and tend to migrate to areas of less resistance - (the oil will take the line of least resistance)  so other points receive less or no oil..  My last project has a dummy Bijur system with grease nipples .

    Note that it is Bijur.

    Thanks for this great information (Including spelling correction).  Those diagrams are great.  Do you have a similar drawing for the 526/533?  One reason I ask is because your diagram shows that the front spring shackles are DB3 and the 526 I have was a DB5.  I can't guarantee that they were not changed at some point in history but the car has so far been pretty unmolested with a little under 30,000 miles on it.

     

  19. 2 hours ago, jrbartlett said:

    Most of these systems are no longer used because they drip oil all over the chassis and garage floor. We had an original '29 640 sedan when I was a kid and we routinely used the oiler. It certainly created a mess. For my current '29 640 roadster, I fitted standard old-style grease fittings.

    Seems from the two messages I have received so far that even well sorted out Bijor systems leaked.  It is surprising considering the quality of Packard.  However, I was shocked with my car in that you check the oil in the same manner you would a Model T.  You have a petcock on the crankcase and if oil comes out you are good.... 

     

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