32Pontiac6
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Posts posted by 32Pontiac6
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I would hold off removing the pump. I have found that you have to keep tightening the packing after a rebuild for a while. I would tighten the nut and drive more. If it gets to the point where you can't tighten the nut anymore you can then back off and put more packing material. While I respect Kornkurt's knowledge I have not had a lot of luck with plumbing store packing. The best I have found for splithead engine pumps is:
Palmetto Packings
Style 1347AF
It is 3/16" square
I think you can get it on Amazon but I got mine through McMaster Carr.
I find this to be the best packing for these engines.
Good luck.
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It does look like a Series 6-30B model 30309, Custom Sedan, 1930. I also own one of these cars. The question is a bit open ended. What in particular do you want to know about the car or 1930 Pontiacs in general?
You will find quite a bit of information on 1930 Pontiacs on my website:
Look in the reference tab and you will find operator manual, dealer brochures, parts book, etc.
Good luck. They are great driving cars.
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Gary,
The outside bright work was chrome and interior was nickel. This is true of my ‘32 also.
The rumble seat material you describe sounds correct. It is hard pressed type cardboard material. You can send me a photo of you want and I can take a look at it.
Here is a dealer brochure that describes a lot of the detail on the car.
https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/1930-pontiac-dealer-brochure.pdf
There is a lot of good information on my website about your car. Hopefully you are making use of it.
Rob
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1 hour ago, Flivver guy said:
Thanks for the info. The car is a sedan and I am very anxious to be driving it. Will need to get the fuel system all sorted while waiting for the tires to get here.
I went through the fuel system and did take apart the vacuum tank. Just cleaned and made sure needle seated. Here are some photos of the innards...,. Also have photos of the rebuilding (new strap) for the Watson Regulators (shocks) and the valve rack I had to work on if you ever need those.
Here are vacuum tank photos.
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55 minutes ago, Flivver guy said:
This car has old, flat spotted 6.50/20 tires. A quick look on the Coker website shows 6.00/20 tires available. What is the correct size that I should be looking for?
Thanks,
According to the documentation I have, the 526 uses 32x6 (6.00 - 20) and the 533 uses 32x6.76. I bought 6.00 - 20 Bedford Blackwalls from Lucas Tires. I am pleased with how they ride both on normal streets and freeway. I am hearing reports that tubes are very difficult to get right now. You might factor that into your decision. The 'after' photo I posted above shows the new tire tread very well. One thing about tires is to look at the tread pattern. I have three cars with three different tread patterns. One that has the tread that only has grooves parallel to the road can track badly on concrete roads with grooves cut in them. I have that problem here in CA with the tires on my '32 Pontiac with a wide tread pattern in the direction of travel.
What is the body style of your car?
And congratulations on your purchase! You will love driving that car.
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Probably the most important thing about cars of this era is the structural wood. Thankfully, Packard took great care in selecting, designing, and assembling the wood structure for their cars. This problem can be particularly one in sedans because they have more wood than other body styles. Check that the doors don't sag and the gaps around the body openings are fairly uniform. You can adjust for normal wear and tear but if the wood has rot it can be a difficult and expensive problem to fix. Drive the car and listen for serious rattles. Packards are solid cars and it should feel solid with minimal rattles, even on a '28. If you acquire it I would make sure that the Bijur lubrication system is getting lube to all the points it is supposed to go to. If not you can lubricate those points manually. I like to drive my cars so first thing I did with mine is to make sure it is safe with brakes, tires, and a good check of the steering and suspension. I recommend buying the parts and service manual for this car. Packard literature for this vintage car is excellent with detailed parts numbers and many photos. I have been in the Pontiac/Oakland world for over 40 years, and while I love my early Pontiacs, there is a reason why even the least expensive Packard was several times more than my Pontiacs. They feel and drive differently and are extremely well engineered. While the 526 is the entry level Packard the mechanics are of the same, and in many cases, identical to the more expensive cars. They are not the fanciest of the Packards but the 7 main bearing single six engine in these cars is a great running engine. This was the last year for the single six. If you are at all handy with mechanics these cars are simple and not that hard to work on. I stumbled upon a 1928 526 sedan 'barn find' in the summer of 2019. Since then I have just been sorting it out and driving it all over. Solid original car with completely original interior including rear seat carpet. Unfortunately someday painted the car with a brush at some point in time. The car is a California car sold by Earle C Anthony. I believe I am the 4th owner and the car has lived within 200 miles of me since '28. I have put over 1300 trouble free miles on the car since purchase. I have had to deal with only one mechanical problem. I had one of the arms on the valve lifter rack break free from its pivot point. Pulled the rack and had it silver soldered back together and were are back running fine. Attached are before and after photos. I am planning to drive it to the Packard National Meet next year in Rohnert Park, CA.
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5 hours ago, Lyle Jorgensen said:
I have just acquired a pristine 1932 Series 402 six 2-Dr convertible. It is too nice to drive. Have both finished side mount tire covers. We named her "Fancy".
That is a beautiful example of a convertible coupe. I am the Technical Advisor for 1932 for the Pontiac Oakland Club and keep a list of all '32's and don't think this one is in my directory. I would like to chat with you about the car sometime. If you could send me a private message with contact information we can communicate.
I also have a website for splithead (1926-32) Pontiacs and there is lots of information about '32's on it. The site is:
www.pontiacsplithead.com
Rob
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Firstly, why does he think he needs to have the pump rebuilt? I ask because some people have assumed it needs to be rebuilt because it is leaking. If that is the case, it might just be that the packing nut needs to be tightened or the packing replaced. Simple job and cheap!
I am sure there are some good sources in Hemmings Motor News in the service section. However, when I have needed pump repair I have used a couple of good , local, machine shops that can usually do the job. That would be my recommendation.
If parts are needed, while the '32 6 cylinder pump is unique the internal parts are not. The '32 pump body is unique because of a water distribution tube that brings water to the back of the block for better cooling. The part number for the body is 493642 but the shaft and impeller was used from '29 through '32 (Part 526856). So if you need an impeller and shaft you can get one from an earlier pump. They sometimes show up on eBay.
Lastly, it is important to keep the pump lubricated. There are oilers for the front bushing (oil through a hole in the fan belt pulley) and at the top of the pump on the engine block side. It is also critical that the fan belt is not too tight because it will put excessive stress on the front bushing of the pump (experience speaking here). You should be able to push the belt with your finger about 1/2" midpoint between the generator and water pump pulleys.
I am the Technical Advisor for '32 for the Pontiac Oakland Club and keep a database of all 1932 Pontiacs. I don't know if I have your father-in-law's car on my list. If you could send me a private message so that we can check to see if the car is there and if not provide me with information to get it on the list. I would be happy to provide any help he needs.
I also manage a site for splithead Pontiacs were there is lots of information on '32's. Owners manual, service manual, dealer literature etc. You can find the information at:
pontiacsplithead.com
Good luck,
Rob
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I finally got through my parts box and unfortunately I don’t have any of the parts you need. They are pretty hard to find but I do see them on eBay from time to time.
If I remember correctly, this car is a 6. Why the V-8 badge needed?
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68tinindian,
You have a beautiful example of a Series 402, Model 32318. Some books call it a Cabriolet and some call it a Convertible Coupe. I like the Convertible Coupe name because it has roll up windows like a coupe but convertible top. Answering your specific questions and some of my input:
1) This is an early car. Serial numbers go from 729001-763983 so your car of number 734757 puts it about 16% of total production. So I would guess it was made in Jan or Feb of '32. You can get a sense of this by looking at some of the casting dates on major components. Check the heads and they should have a date on them along with the part number.
2) It looks like you are in Pennsylvania and I don't know what their rules are for changing VIN numbers. I had a similar problem with my '30 Pontiac. They used the engine number as the VIN. I wanted to change to the serial number on there frame in case I ever had to replace the engine. I had to get a peace officer to look at the numbers sign a form documenting the change. I hope it is not a huge problem in your state. So first step would be to contact your state DMV.
3) I do keep a registry of '32 Pontiacs which now number about 75. I say about because I do not have serial numbers for all cars and think I have some duplicates. My guess of the number of running cars (go into garage and be assured it will start and drive) is probably in the neighborhood of 30.
4) I checked my registry and I do show an unknown car in PA. This information was given to me by people out your way. They knew of a convertible coupe but did not know the owners name. So yours might be that unknown car. Did your dad belong to any of the clubs that specialized in Pontiac/Oaklands? We could talk about this offline.
5) I maintain a website:
www.pontiacsplithead.com
This site has lots of information that can help you get started with knowing about your car. It has:
- Operator Manual
- Service News
- Service Manual (incomplete but I upload information frequently and should have everything up by the end of the year)
- Dealer Brochure (color)
- Very detailed dealer sales specifications and comparisons to other cars
- Marvel Carburetor information
Just click on the Reference menu and enjoy.
I would like to get your contact information so we can chat about your car. You can send to me at:
splithead6fan@gmail.com
I am the Technical Advisor for 1930 and 1932 Pontiacs for the Pontiac Oakland Club
Good luck on that great car.
Rob
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32 Pontiac is correct about the filter on 1932 Pontiacs. See the following from The Parts and Service Pointer from July 1, 1932 on Page 11.
https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/servicenewsjuly1932low.pdf
There were some add on, bypass filters, that I have seen on ‘32’s and I am sure they could have been mounted on a ‘31 also. However no filter was standard on the ‘31. The pan had a mesh screen that isolated the crankcase side of the engine from the suction side of the oil pump. The pan has baffles on the bottom to make the oil flow around them so that particles can settle out before reaching the pump.
I have a website that I continue to build for splithead (1926-32) Pontiacs and try to regularly upload information there. The site is:
www.pontiacsplithead.com
Right now there is more information for ‘30 and ‘32 but much can be learned about your car from those two years. The Service Manual information that is uploaded will apply to your car although I have not scanned the entire manual yet.
Good luck with the ‘31. Splithead Pontiacs are great driving cars.
Rob
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2 hours ago, LCK81403 said:
That's a rare one. Looks like a 1929 Oakland All American 6 Landaulet Sedan. I wonder if there are any of that body style surviving. I know of a handful of Pontiacs with that body style that survived. Thank for sharing that photo.
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There are two part numbers for hubcaps for 1931 Pontiac with wire wheels. The cap you show in your photo is from a wire wheel. The parts book shows one hubcap until about mid year production and it is ‘31 only. After mid year the hubcaps are the same for ‘31 - ‘33. While I don’t have any examples of early ‘31 hubcaps the one you show looks to me to be ‘31-‘33 if it fits on your wheel. I have attached a photo of a ‘32 6 cyl with wire wheels and a ‘30 with wood wheels. The wood wheel ‘31 would be same hubcap as the ‘30 pictured. Another note is on the ‘31-‘33 hubcap is that if the feathers stop at the ring around the Indian head they are reproduction. Original Pontiac hubcaps have the feathers past the ring as pictured in the photo you have shown. You can see the difference in the ‘32 pictured. Passenger front is original, one on the side mount is reproduction. Hopefully this is not too confusing.
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What are the dimensions of the trunk?
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Sent you a message with my phone number and email.
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Oakland radiator has a different part number. All Pontiacs of the splithead era ('26-'32) have unique radiators. I would suggest you advertise/look at joining the Early Times Chapter of the Pontiac-Oakland Club and/or the Oakland Pontiac Worldwide Chapter of AACA. These groups have a fairly broad audience and people with parts. Also search eBay every day. You never know what you find there.
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They can be rebuilt. I had mine rebuilt and the gage calibrated. Give me a day or so to dig up that information. You also may find somebody in Hemmings that does the rebuild. The insides are fairly simple. Have you tested this one at all? Putting an ohmmeter on them should show variable resistance as the arm goes up and down. One of the things that keeps them from reading correctly is a bad ground. When you do put it back I would suggest running a ground wire from the machine screw that attaches it to the take to the chassis.
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If what you are needing is the pot metal plated trim, I think that all the original ones I have seen are broken. The attached picture is my car. So if you find 2 I am in need of one too.
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Here are dimensions.
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Give me a few days and I will measure.
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This is what an original '32 cleaner looks like. They are very rare. I have owned my car for over 40 years and just recently acquired the proper one. There are quite a few on complete cars but finding one loose and for sale is quite a challenge. I think somebody with good sheet metal skills could reproduce one.
Rob
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5 hours ago, carbking said:
And a bit of further information:
Checked the Stromberg database, and the Stromberg engineers suggested a carburetor with a 27.5mm venturi for the 526. The 10184A has a 27mm venturi. Should really run well.
Jon
Jon,
Thank your for the information. Looking at the tag it sure looks like it is 10184A. The car runs great on this carb (until flooding problem). The plugs look great so combustion is very good. Mileage has increased as I drove the car more.
I would like to order a rebuild kit. Looking at your website it looks like I have to wait until Monday to place an order? I do have an event coming up and would like to get it back on the road as soon as possible.
Thanks again for your help.
Rob
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Thanks Jon. How can I get adjustment info?
Rob
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My 1928 Packard 526 has a Zenith carburetor that at some point replaced the Packard carb. I just started having problems with flooding which can be solved by the ‘hammer the bowl’ technique. The carb is apart for service now. While I am familiar with some of the Zenith models this one is a mystery to me. My questions are:
1). What is the model of this carb?
2). What is the spring/plunger mechanism for?
3). Does anybody have or know where I can get circuit/function information for this carburetor?
Any leads will be appreciated. The car is a ‘barn find’ that I have driven 1200 miles in the last two years so I know it runs well on the carburetor. I just need to stop the leaking that just started. It may just be grit that got in the seat and cleaning and re-assembly will do the trick but I would like to know how this carb functions to make sure I am not missing something.
Thanks,
Rob
What parts from a 28 are compatible with a 30?
in Pontiac & Oakland
Posted
On my website I have a spreadsheet I created listing major components by year and part number. Possibly this will be of some help:
https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/splitheadreference-1.pdf