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32Pontiac6

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Posts posted by 32Pontiac6

  1. 14 hours ago, brasscarguy said:

    My heated car barn has only running and driving cars. Presently, from oldest to newest,

    1906 Reo 2 cylinder totally restored

    1915 Gallivan powered model t roadster

    1929 Cadillac Dual Cowl Phaeton (Totally Original)

    1930 Ford Model A Phaeton restored 

    1941 Cadillac convertible sedan restored

    1994 Ferrari 348 spyder original only 21,000 miles

     

    In another building,

    1977 Ford Ranchero original unrestored only 41,000 miles

    In my restoration building,

    1913 Oakland Raceabout under total restoration, should be finished late summer 2024

     

    Still looking for a mid 50' to late 60's Ferrari project

    just sayin'

    brasscarguy

     

    What's is a Raceabout?  is it series 35, 40, 42, 60?  Photo?

  2. On 10/5/2023 at 9:09 PM, Gerczak said:

    What is the story with the split head on the top of the engine?  Could the Pontiac engineers not figure out how to cast it in one piece.  Seems odd since it was just a simple cast block on most cars of the day.

     

    Also the coolant tube from the back head looks grade "A" asbestos to me.  I don't know if that was the repair for the worn out return tube that fouled the entire exterior of the engine.

     

    If it were closer to me, I would check it out as I think it still has a lot of things going for it.

    They did know how to make full length heads because Oakland had them.  The split head had some advantages.  Heads had to be removed to clean carbon off back in the day and you can remove the head without taking the distributor off.  This made that job a little easier.  Plus the small head minimized problems due to warping.  Also helped cooling by taking water from both front and rear of the engine.  These split head engines are well designed good running machines. 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  3. If the car is a ‘28 (Pontiac did not necessarily have years back then but series ) it should be torque tube vs. Hotchkiss drive.  If it is torque tube the axle is the same for all earlier (‘26-28) cars (part number 355519).  If the car is Hotchkiss drive it shares a drive shaft with Oakland from ‘23-31 and Pontiac ‘29-32.  That would be part number 486384.

     

    If you are not a member of any of the splithead Pontiac groups you might consider joint (Early Times Chapter of Pontiac Oakland Club or Oakland Pontiac Worldwide - AACA Chapter).  You can advertise for free.

     

    I also have a website that is a work in progress with information on first generation Pontiacs:

    www.pontiacsplithead.com

     

    Good luck.

     

    • Like 1
  4. Attached are photos of an Atwater Kent switch that is on my 1910 Oakland Model M.  I don’t think this is the correct switch for the car because it originally had Remy magneto and switch.  

     

    Does anybody have any technical information for this Atwater Kent switch?  I know it has a coil in it for starting without having to crank the engine.  Any information or leads on where to find information on this switch would be appreciated.

     

    Thanks ,

    Rob

     

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    IMG_0665.jpg

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  5. 39 minutes ago, Bob McAnlis said:

    You will want to check out the "Our Cars and Restoration Projects" Section on these forums.   Specifically, the thread called "We Acquired an Oakland with a little work".     A long restoration thread about a 1909 Oakland, same chassis as yours, except longer wheelbase.   The owner is very talented and there is much to learn about tackling projects you may need to address.

    Thanks Bob - We have spoken before about brass Oaklands.  I have been following that thread.  He is doing quite a bit of good work.  There is a lot he is doing that is helping me understand my car.  Actually, my car is on the same chassis (112”) as his car.  His car is a Model K which was a touring car and mine is a Model M which was the roadster built on the same chassis as the touring car.  By the number of cars surviving they must have built very few of the Model M roadsters.  There are quite a few touring cars out there but the big roadster seems to be very rare.  

  6. While not new to antique cars, I am new to the horseless carriage world.  I have been fortunate enough to have recently acquired a 1910 Oakland Model M Roadster (40 series).  It seems that these higher horsepower roadsters are pretty rare.  The prior owner (sadly deceased) always stated the car I now own was one of two that existed.  I have not been able to find this second car anywhere.  I am a member of the Horseless Carriage Club, Oakland Owners Club, Oakland Pontiac Worldwide, and the Pontiac Oakland Club and do not find another in the member data for these clubs.  There are several of the lower horsepower 30 series roadsters/runabouts but I can’t find any 40 series roadsters.  In the information I received with the car I did find three photos of a car labeled 1909 Oakland Gentleman’s Roadster.  Does anybody recognize the car in the three attached photos?  I would very much like to find the current owner of this car.  The last photo is of the car I have acquired.

     

    I appreciate any help you can provide.  You can contact me via private message if needed.

    Thank you.

    Rob

     

    1909OaklandMRoadster85148.jpeg

    1909OaklandMRoadster63965.jpeg

    1909OaklandMRoadster45167.jpeg

    IMG_0338.jpeg

    • Like 4
  7. There should be a small plate riveted to the frame.  It is about 1/2” x 3”.  You can see it by looking at the frame just behind where the front axle crosses the frame.  It is on the drivers side just behind the driver front wheel.  It should be in the form of Pxxxxxx with the xxxxxx between 649001 to 729000.  As EmTee said sometime the engine number is used on the registration.  Engine numbers should range between 744001 - 835000.

     

    I also have a website with information on splithead era Pontiacs (1926-1932).  

    www.pontiacsplithead.com

    This site will continue to grow with new information including the service information for these cars.  I currently do not have a lot of information on ‘31 but do have a dealer brochure under the reference / marketing literature section.

    https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/1931-dealer-brochure.pdf

    I also have parts information for this era Pontiac

    https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/splitheadreference-1.pdf

     

    Hope this helps.  I am Technical Advisor for 1930 and 1932 Pontiacs for the Pontiac Oakland Club but have information for most of the splithead era.

    Hope this helps.

     

  8. 61Polara and 3macboys recommend  the proper tool per the Oakland Pontiac Service Manual.  There are other ways I have used to remove but the puller attached to the brake drum is the method in the manual

     

    The complete section of this manual should be uploaded to my website today or tomorrow.  I am slowly getting the entire service manuals for 1926-1932 Pontiacs on this site.

     

    pontiacsplithead.com

     

    Screenshot 2023-02-26 at 8.49.41 AM.jpg

    • Like 2
  9. On 11/4/2022 at 8:34 PM, allcars said:

    I think the cars with the bright radiator shells may be Oaklands -- perhaps "Oakland" became "Overland" over the years. The second car from the right appears to be of the racy speedster design Oakland produced in that period. Here is a photo of such a Speedster, restored and with non-period bumpers, I'm thinking. And, with a little searching on Newspapers.com, it is confirmed P & O were Oakland dealers in 1915 ... see ad.

    13ca Oakland Roadster_1.jpg

    Screen Shot 2022-11-04 at 11.32.27 PM.jpg

    Was the photo of the 1915 Oakland Series 37 Speedster taken recently?  This car was sold 3 years ago at auction and wondered where it ended up.  I think it is one of the most beautiful Oaklands made and would love to see it someday.  Do you know what part of the world it is in?

     

  10. 4 hours ago, mark graber said:

    Hi Rob,

    You might do a search on packardinfo.com.  There have been several discussions about installing these switches and good ones to use.

    Mark

    I posted on the Packard sites but no response yet.  I also tried a search but must not have used the right words.  I will try again.

  11. That is an interesting idea.  I am finding that fitting a mechanical one in the space close to the battery (to shutoff upstream of the starter/ammeter branch)  is difficult.  With the Optima battery  I am using it is possible that I could put a solenoid in the battery box.  I assume that you can buy some that would take the high 6V current to the starter?  

    Do you have any references to manufacturers of the solenoids?

     

    Anybody else using this method?

  12. The original generator is a 629-J and was used in Series 6-29-401 (1931).  If you are looking for this data I maintain a website that has some of the important information for splithead (‘26-‘32) Pontiacs.  The site is:

     

    pontiacsplithead.com

     

    There is a table showing major engine parts and it is under:

    Reference - Misc Reference-1926-1932 Pontiac Engine Specifications and Parts

     

    Here is a link to that page:

    https://pontiacsplithead.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/splitheadreference-1.pdf

     

     

  13. I am looking for the fuel gage for my 1928 Packard 526.  I do have the faceplate that you see through the glass but need the mechanism behind for the K-S Telegage.  I do have the sending unit in the tank.

    I would like to get both the gage and cover
    Part
    157430    Instrument Board Gasoline Gage
    145975    Instrument Board Gasoline Gage Cover

    Any help or leads will be appreciated.

    Rob
     

  14. On 8/5/2022 at 7:01 PM, RossWalkup said:

    Rob did you notice that in the ad you posted under the picture of my car there is no battery box for the 6-24 volt battery and in the specs it listed it as having an air starter? I don't think they ever made any that way but  but I have seen other pre production adds like this.

    Ross,

    Yes I did.  It also does not have the tool box.

    Rob

     

  15. On 8/5/2022 at 1:16 PM, Scooter Guy said:

    I have recently gone to carrying Element fire extinguishers in my old car.

     

    They are a "stick" type extinguisher that expels a gas that is non-toxic and non-corrosive. They contain no moving parts or compressed gas so they do not require any servicing and do not expire. This helps reduce or eliminate the risk of having a fancy fire extinguisher that has been untouched for years and fails when you go to discharge it in an emergency. Storage temperature for an element is a non-issue as well...they can withstand up to something like 300 degrees. Their standard model is less than a foot long and less than 2" in diameter and weighs less than a pound. Their "run time" is comparable, if not longer, than traditional fire extinguishers. It's a bit like a road flare and is single use only, and they run about $80. There are other options in the same price range, but there are some definite advantage to the element, in my view. 

     

    In addition I have Co2 fire extinguishers in the house and "man cave" and multiple halon (yes, the old ones) extinguishers and dry chemical extinguishers in the garage/shop. As someone that has experienced fire (I did not lose a car or building, fortunately), I take it very seriously. My advice is to mount extinguishers on the wall in your garage/shop by the exit...don't bury them under the workbench or put them in a cabinet or use them as a coat rack. 

     

    As has already been said, any extinguisher is better than no extinguisher. 

    Thanks.  Those sound great and are new to me.  I think I will try one.

     

    • Like 2
  16. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good, small, extinguisher that I can mount in my 1932 and older cars?  I have had several over the years and wonder what others are using.  I would like to mount something accessible but as inconspicuous as possible.

     

    Looking online they have 1 lb and 2.5 lb.  The 1 lb seems to be pretty compact but wonder if that is enough extinguishing power.

     

    Thanks!

    Rob

     

  17. I would like to accumulate information on the biggest Oakland produced, the 6-60.  These were made in 1913 and 1914 and are on a 130” chassis and had a 6 cyl engine.  They were made in a 2 person raceabout as well as 4,5, and 7 person touring.  The reference material I have says that there was actually a 6-61 and 6-62 made in 1914  and that there was also a 6-60 roadster made (Standard Catalog  of  Pontiac 2nd Edition by John Gunnell).

     

    I know of only one surviving car that that is owned by an AACA member, Ross Walkup in  Florida.  Ross is trying to find out  history of his car.  He said that Daniel W. Welsh of Riverview, FL owned the car in the 1960’s and is trying to find any information from him, friends or family members.

     

    I am aware of the modified Model 6-60 that was driven by Frank Fithen who lost his arms in an accident as a child.  He drove this car across the US and there are quite a few newspaper articles about his travels.

     

    I am also looking for information on the second largest Oaklands, the 1914 6-48 Light Six and the 1915 6-49 Light Six.   These were on 123-1/2” chassis.  I do know of two of these that exist.  I have also not been able to find any literature on the 1914 6-48.  Maybe somebody has something they can share.

     

    My ask to the group is:

    -Does anybody know of any additional 6-60, 61, 62’s out there?

    -Can anybody help Ross with identifying ownership of his car?

    -Does anybody have any information on the second largest car the 1914 6-48 Light Six and the 1915 6-49 Light Six.

     

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

     

    Rob Guzzetta

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