busaf4

Terry Thanks for the also very thoughtful reply and the practical information on applying the technology Art

Ed Thanks for the thoughtful reply. The head I mentioned is for a 1926 Pierce Model 80 (aluminum head) which is in rough condition. THe are a rare as the holy grail. The rocker arms are for a Franklin Series 10 Art

Has anyone used a turn key service to produce metal parts such as heads, rocker arms which are plan unavailable. The service would have to scan the part for dimensional information , use metal that will be similar composition and physical the properties of part and perform any after working for cleaning part for use. Also if someone had this done what the total cost range. Art

HI Scott Jeff Hasslen said that they used different rocker arm in the series 10 A,B than they they did with the series 10C. He belives the rockers as shown in my picture from my car may be from a series 10A, B. even though my care is 10C. It was obvious that the motor had be taken apart in the past Thanks Art Lee

Hello Does anyone have 2 exhaust rocker arms and 1 intake rocker arm for a 192 10C. I believe Franklin called them walking beams. I want to replaced the bent and welded ones I found while rebuilding the motor. I already have calls out regarding these pieces Thank You Art Lee

Thank You. I will give you a call Art

To Bob and Mike Thank you for your helpful comments Art

Jon Thank you for your comments. You nailed the problem.Compression was way off in 2 an 3 cylinders. Removed head (was leaking a little anti freeze at head gasket) and found both exhaust valves were sticking. Art

My Detroit lubricator carburetor has been sent out twice to two different shops for a complete rebuild and still does not work properly. It runs too lean and the lean condition popping is present. Increasing choke makes no difference. The car can not be driven My experience with popping carburetors on Doges with Vacuum tanks is that if the engine is not immediately shut down, the carburetor will back fire into the vacuum tank and cause a major engine compartment fire (this happened to my 1924 Dodge) Since their is no fuel adjustment other than idle mixture i can not make the mixture richer. I have dumped over$400 into it and have spent about 8 hours on it with my friend who is a retired mechanic 1) The car has been timed per Dodge Manual and does start up. It will not idle and will not run unless the accelerator is continually pump. 2) When running using the above technique , it will not keep running regardless of hand throttle control 3) The car once ran well but was not used for several year do to family issues Has anyone used the Dayton up draft carburetor where there is fuel adjustment I do not care if I am not using an original carburetor. I want a car that runs and run safely Art Lee Dodge Brothers Club Member

Thanks. Patrick is actually doing the machine work and Jim

I am rebuilding the motor on my1925 10 C and after having the cylinders bead blasted, tow of the units have cracks. Does anyone have or know of someone who has two good cylinders Thanks Art Lee

I have1925 Willy's 93 Overland (6 cylinder) with a pot metal Tillotson SE-4A carburetor. The pot metal is shot. Looking for someone who has owned such a car and has experience on what replacement carburetor will work on this car. Thank You Art

Don Sommers can make them. Your looking at$500 -$1000 https://americanarrowcorp.com/products/hood-ornaments/

Thanks Art

Thank you both for the information. I do have the spark retarded on start up and then advanced once it is running. I had never checked the timing before the fire. I did not remove the distributor but did find timing was way off using the static timing procedure in the manual (#4 exhaust valve) Have not got a chance to load test the car but it ran smooth in the sweet spot settings as i described above. I will check for the float level and then check vacuum leaks between the carb and block before working with the rack and pinion set up. Thank you for the help. I now understand how the carb works and thanks for the expanation Art

My 1925 10C Demi muffler is corroded out. The 2" front pipe is good, the back 1.5" pipe is rough. Is the most practical solution is to get a modern 2 inch inlet/outlet straight muffler, cut out the flanges, use modern connectors/hangers and have a muffler shop bend the now 2 inch tail pipe . The car is a driver Thanks Art Lee

If you join the Franklin Club you can get access to the drawings and parts catalog that will certainly help you. The pictures indicate is is probably a 10B or 10C. Looking at the the drawings and parts may help you make a decision which will be best for you Art Lee

Recovering from engine fire where back firing ignited the vacuum tank causing a full engine fire. It took 2 - 10 lb ABC extinguishers which saved car from being a total loss Ignition system gone though with. Cap rotor (with brush) are OK. The points and timing are set per manual Carburetor rebuilt professionally. Understand their is only one adjusting point and the book says to set this adjustment when hand spark control is on retard The choke needs to be pulled out fully to start. As engine warms up and choke pushed, the engine starts to make a poping sound when pushed in more than 2/3 of full travel. The engine pops when engine is throttled up when either the choke is pulled out over 50% of full travel and when is pushed in 2/3 or more of full travel . In that sweet spot there is no engine poping. The spark control is at advanced during this operation. My guess the above poping is from too lean or to rich mixture Question: Do I just leave it in that sweet spot, or am I missing something. Not to be rude, but I am only looking for answers from Dodge Brothers members who have personal hands on experience working on their Dodges Art

Still have not located a gas cap. Does anyone know what the thread is. I is not a tapped 2 inch NPT

Lost my series 10 gas cap. Same cap was used for the 9 and 11series Does anyone have one or know some place that sells them. Tried the usual places such as ebay, hemming with no luck. Model A FORD (28-29) has a similar cap but is too large (would need to be bushed out and threaded) Thanks Art Lee

Hi Kevin I have a 1921 Cole Aero Eight Touring Car in running condition. I am located in NJ. One of my Franklin club members who posted was talking about me Art

I trying to get my Series 151 with Warner 3 speed alignment issues corrected I have Franklin bulletin #600 dated 2/27/1931 The terminology is giving me a problem when working with transmission shops. They are totally baffled with the terms used bulletin 600 and the Franklin parts Is the "clutch housing: term used in the bulletin mean the same as modern term "bell housing: Is the "flywheel guard term" in the bulletin the same as the access plate on the top of the bell housing Does Franklin tool "clutch aligning bar drawing 35842" insert into clutch thrust bearing sleeve Franklin part R-2541. I have a machinist who can make the clutch aligning bar if necessary. Are the screw drivers as described in bulletin #600 used to guide in the clutch tool into the clutch assembly (as shown in clutch parts picture)in parts book When the clutch bar is fully inserted, I presume the clutch is now aligned Is the next step to use a micrometer on the end of the clutch tool and then make sure it is centered in the rear bell housing end. It appears that there are two alignment holes for the alignment pins that are in approx.. the 10:30 and 1:30 position (see attached bell housing picture , it is an extra I have) If the align dowels do not align, can offset dowel pins be used (have access to them). Is it correct to presume with the clutch aligned, there are not forward or aft adjustments to the bell housing when fits flat against the engine block Are there other measurements I need to be concerned with Suggestion from person who have actually done this procedure are greatly appreciated. By my knowing the technology to explain to an experienced mechanic, I know teh problem will be solved just as it was with previous technology help from club members on my Series 9 which I brought to this years Trek Thank You Art Lee

Thanks for the suggestions Art

I am changing the badly deteriorated ignition wires. Having a hard time with snaking the wires through the conduit which is in place, I sprayed the inside with silcon spray hoping it would help.I got the wire to go in about 6 inches before it completely stoped. Between the conduit and sheet metal shroud there are 6 cylinder shaped pieces (attached to conduit) that look to be heat protection for the wires. There seems to be very deteriorated grommets between the top f the cylinder and the shroud where the old wires snaked through The parts manual shows the conduit, cylinder shaped piece, grommets and wires as one part # so obviously string new wires was a tough job Should the conduit be removed so there is enough of an opening to push the wire or run a snake. I presume the grommet remnant should be removed. Any help from someone who has done this will be greatly appreciated Art Lee

Tom thaks so much. What you described worked perfectly. It now has about 1/2 inch of free play and shifts as it should. Plan on bringing the series 9b to the Trek. Hope to see you there Art Lee