RocketDude
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Posts posted by RocketDude
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A really great find. I would love to hear the story behind it, and to follow your restoration proccess.
I'm also glad I live in So Calif and don't have to deal with the mud, the snow and the cold..!
Good luck with it......
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WOW..! You really smacked me across the head with that one..! A '54??
I know the kit I used fits a lot of years, but way back to "54? I don't know about that.
It's not real accruate, but measure your antenna in the up position. I'll check mine. I'll open the trunk and try to get an overall measurement. Obviously that is just a "Sorta" measurement, but better than nothing for now.
I don't recall that it came with rubber insulators, but then, in my experience, the vehicles were much newer, so the rubber was still in great shape.
Anyone who is so desperate as to have tried weedeater line and zip ties, is a man ready to experiment...!
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WOW..! You really smacked me across the head with that one..! A '54??
I know the kit I used fits a lot of years, but way back to "54? I don't know about that.
It's not real accruate, but measure your antenna in the up position. I'll check mine. I'll open the trunk and try to get an overall measurement. Obviously that is just a "Sorta" measurement, but better than nothing for now.
I don't recall that it came with rubber insulators, but then, in my experience, the vehicles were much newer, so the rubber was still in great shape.
Anyone who is so desperate as to have tried weedeater line and zip ties, is a man ready to experiment...!
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I couldn't tell you how long it was, I didn't measure it. I do know the Chevy Parts books books don't list them for a Chevy that year either, but I have replaced many over the years and know they will work, so I bought it for the earlier year and it worked fine. My bet would be if you have a GM vehicle with a factory antenna, it will work.
If you can find a GM dealer in your area that stocks the kit, perhaps you can talk him into letting you measure it. It comes in a plastic bag and there isn't much to it, just a cable with the top section of the antenna attached. I understand it's a $30 gamble if you are not sure, but I have yet to do a GM antenna that it won't work in, even though the book doesn't say so.
Most parts people don't want to screw with it, they would much rather sell you a $300 antenna assembly that a $30 repair kit. It's an easy fix, just drill out the rivets and remove the snap clips that hold it together. You have to unscrew the little knob off the top of the antenna so the top link can slide out. The nylon cable comes connected to the top link. Slide the new top antenna link back up the center of the antenna and wind the cable around the spool. You don't need to rivet the case back together, just use the snap clips that come with it.
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For all of you Buick aficionados, here is the answer. I'm not sure what the question is, but this is the answer...!!
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Go to the nearest Chevy dealer and buy the kit. I recently repaired the antenna in my 98 Olds Aurora. They don't list that car, so I bought the kit they listed for Chevy and it works fine.
The part I bought was #22038195. It lists for $37.63, and I got it for $30.10 + tax with my discount, in June of this year.
I moved to a new area and the dealer insisted there was no such part, so I had to call the Dealer in the town I moved from to get the part number.
Have fun.........
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I would suggest that you enroll in a basic auto class at the local Commmunity College. That would be the perfect place for you, and it's very inexpensive. You will start with the very basics, and your classmates will be at your level, so the instructor will take it slowly. You will probably find other ladies taking the classes so they can be a little more independent. It will also make you feel more confident when you do need to take your car to a mechanic.
I doubt very seriously you will find a mechanic who has the time to teach you these things. Most of them are trying to put food on their tables.
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The preceding is a testament to the old adage....
"Never discuss Religion, Politics, or Automobiles.!"
There ain't never gonna be no winner......
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(Quote)I was thinking instead of boiling to freeze it in a large freezer I have here and then pour off the oil that does not freeze(Quote)
Why are you trying to make something so simple, so complicated..?
One of the posts above told you how to do it. Let it sit until it seperates, and then put a valve on the bottom, or as I have done many times, poke a hole in the bottom and watch the flow until you see oil coming out, and plug the hole. What you have left is oil. Put it in your engine, use it, forget it..! Ny water left will boil off... Geeze... It can't get any more simple...
There shouldn't be anymore discussion. Your question was answered...
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: old flathead</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey, Is that a 28-29 Dodge that shows with your register. My father has a 29 5 window coupe that is all original. It has wooden wheels and 6 in it. It really looks like a show room piece. He is afraid to get out much. It can't be replaced. He is thinking about replacing the runnig gear and frame with modern gear. </div></div>
If your father is thinking about taking a show piece original and putting modern running gear in it, put a lock on the door of the garage and station an armed guard in front of the door to keep him out. It's only original once. You won't make many friends in here talking like that..!
If he has the burning desire to build something, go buy an old wreak to start with, not something original, even if it is only a Chrysler product..!!.
Now that I got that off my chest, lets see pictures.....
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rbl2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Kinda reminds me of the coke machines we used to put a dime in and then to get the coke you had to move it through a maze. </div></div>
I remember going by the gas station after they closed and popping off the lid and sticking a straw in the bottle and emptying the bottle without removing it from the machine.
As old age set in, most of my mischievous ways have disappeared
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Some more thoughts I had while bored out of my skull sitting in a doctor's waiting room for hours today.
One, if it is just seeping a little, that might be not too bad, as rope seals were seldom perfect. The severity of the leak would determine if you want to jump in to that project.
The second thought is, if the rope is seeping, it would most likely be seeping on the bottom half, since that is where the weight and pressure would be. You might just want to skip the scary top half, and go for the bottom half.
If you looked at the old seal before you removed it from the cap, you should be able to tell if that is the seep area.
Just tossing out a couple more options for you to think about....
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I have no experience with that engine, and I figured someone else would jump in here, but since they haven't, I'll go for it.
I have used that tool on rope rear main seals on many occasions, just not on your brand.. It consists of a thick wire with really course threads on one end, and a loop on the other end. it's about 10 inches long. You screw the threaded end in the end of the rope seal as far as you can, and then slowly turn the crank as you pull the rod and seal out by the loop on the end. If you don't turn the crank, the seal won't move..!
To re-install, you grease the crapolla out of the new seal and put it in the sneaky pete, which is just Chinese fingers on the end of a wire. Grab the end, and pull it through as you again turn the crank slowly, obviously in the same direction your pulling..! Cut it off flush and put on a little dab of silicone on the joint.
I've never heard them called Slim Jim, only Sneaky Pete. I'm sure we are talking about the same thing.
Never had to lower the crank. That would be a major production. Don't know why you would need to jerk the trans if you can get at the rear main, but like I said, I haven't worked on that engine
Good luck and have fun.....
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The PU I had was an '80 Chevy with the early design engine. I bought it low mileage with a blown engine for really cheap. I drug it to work and put in the late model DX engine and drove it for years. When I first went to work for Olds and heard that rattle clank of the diesel, I knew I had to have one..! Cost me nothing for a new engine. I took too low mileage warranty engines and made one good one. Zero cost.
Yes, the first one was a converted gas engine. When a vehicle came in needing work, we would look to see the mark. If it was a DX, we would rebuild it. If it was a D, we would yank it out and toss it in the trash can...
Good old days. If I could had done nothing but work on those engines, I would have stayed at Olds forever. Alas, along came vans and I retired to Goverment Fleet where I didn't have to work anymore..!
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I worked at an Olds dealership in the 80's, and built many diesel engines. The Cad/Chevy/Buick used the same engine.
The later engine which came out in about 1980 has a DX cast into the side of the block. That was a good engine, The earlier engine was a converted gas engine, and was very problematic. The later DX engine had a much stronger block, stronger crank, roller cam and lifter, many upgrades that made it a nice engine
I drove a Chevy PU with that engine for years with no problems. I don't really remember what kind of mileage I got with it. Nothing special, as I remember.
Knowing that engine as well as I do, or did, I would recommend against buying it unless you get a real steal. The reason I would be leery is because it has been out of production for a long time, and I'm not sure how available parts would be for it. Also not many guys left with experience working on them.
Here is a site dedicated to the Olds diesel. Go pick their brains. There are a lot of guys in that site that still love them today. My knowlwdge and experience is 20 years old.
Good luck.
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Engines that old are not my area of expertise, but since no one elce will jump in, I will..!
I have considerable experience on 50's and later engines, so I will tell you my experience with camshaft berings.
If you are doing a complete rebuild to the point that you are having the block hot tanked, you definately want to change the cam bearings. If you are not going that far into the engine, I wouldn't worry about the cam bearings.
The camshaft rotates in the bearing, so unlike rod bearing where there is considerable load placed on the bearings, camshaft bearing tend not to wear much. In all of my experience, I would never even look at the cam bearings unless I was tanking the block. There are exceptions, such as some engines are famous for spinning the rear cam bearing (Y block Ford) and when that happens, you lose oil to the top end, so it's neccessary to replace the cam bearing. Usually it's not neccessary.
Hopefully someone better versed in the really old stuff will come along and lend some insite.
Good luck....
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I see the Egge link didn't come through. Lets try again...
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As far as upgrading your engine, it depends on where you are, and where you're going. Is the engine bad and require a rebuild, or are you just trying to hot rod it a little? If the engine is running fairly decently, I would suggest you drive it and enjoy it, and in the mean time spend lots of time here in the forum learning before you pick up a wrench. I think you have been reading to many hot rod magazines.
That engine was the king of the hill back in the day, but by today's standard, it's a twinkie..! Build it all you want, and a V-6 Honda will still have you for lunch..! If you just want a dependable car to enjoy on weekend putts, forget all that hot rod stuff. I have been building Hi P engines for years, so I do appreciate the need for speed, but it is very expensive, and you won't achieve what you want with that engine. If it's a nice car, leave it stock and dependable and enjoy it.
The later heads will breath somewhat better, but not enough to make it worth your while, unless you need different heads anyway. Absolutely no reason to put in hardened seats, unless you have way too much money and need to get rid of some of it. Today's fuel will not effect them.
The rockers are another story. The original tend to not oil well, and with extended mileage they start wearing and making noise. If that is the case, you can replace them with later models that have a better ratio and improved oiling. The rocker shafts may also wear, so make sure to replace the whole assembly, if they truly need it. that is expensive stuff, so don't just replace stuff unless it's neccessary.
The cams ands lifters were the same until, I believe '56. The difference was in the ratio.If you change rockers, change them all or you will have two different ratios.
Egge Machine - Your Complete Source for Obsolete Engine Parts
is where I got mine, but there are other sources.
What else should you replace while you're deep in the motor? without a doubt, replace the rear main seal..! Before we get into all of that again. tell us more about your specific needs. Their are volumes written about that engine here in the forum. Read and learn before jumping into something.
With all of my years of experience, I got eaten alive cost wise when I jumped into rebuilding the engine. This old stuff is a whole new ball game. Go slow and learn first.
Cruse through the Egge Catalog with your calculator. You will discover they are proud of their stuff, and charge accordingly.
The best advise everyone will give you in here, is go slow and learn before you leap. Lots of helpful people in here who love to answer your questions....
Good luck in whatever you do......
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The '53 distributor will work in the '50, however the distributor with the window in the side didn't come out until MUCH later than 1953. That hex key idea for adjusting points was a wonderful GM invention, but by the time it appeared, the engine was far different and in no way would fit your vehicle, unless you are going to change the engine too.!!. It is completely different.
It's not that difficult to set your points, and as many miles as you will be putting on the car, you won't need to do it very often.
I don't have experience with the petronix. I have heard good and bad about it on this site, but in my opinion, the stock one is perfectly fine. Set it up properly and it will last longer than you do..!
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The spring shop I have used did it much more scientifically. They dissemble the spring, put it in a huge furnace and heat it to cherry red. They then re arch the spring and re-temper it. When cool they paint it and re assemble it and you have a brand new spring. They can add or subtract leaves to attain your desired results.
Beating on a worn out spring may return it to its former height, but the metal is fatigued and will not hold the arch. This method may be sufficient for an antique. My experience has been with light and heavy trucks, and I don't think the hammer method would suffice.
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That's good information.. There is always someone out there trying to make a buck with junk like this. The ignorant and the uninformed get suckered in.
This one for sure could cost you thousands to repair the damage caused by the junk these crooks sell.
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What we are learning here today is, there is a reason that they make chocolate and strawberry. Not everyone has the same taste. You will find just as many people who love all these cars, as hate them.
We need to broaden our horizons a little, and don't find fault with cars just because your preference happens to be old iron.
I see lots of discussion in here about the best new truck to tow your relic with, so new stuff can't be all that bad. Ask your wife's opinion. I bet they all drive new cars.....
Unique Car Hauler?
in General Discussion
Posted
http://www.dragracingonline.com/agent1320/2007/images/firetrucktour_sammy&bob.jpg
Here is a picture from "Drag Racing on Line, showing a firetruck car hauler taking a fuel funny car from New York to Texas, so it can and has been done