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RocketDude

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Posts posted by RocketDude

  1. I need a trunk floor pan for a 1951 S-88, from the rear of the trunk forward, extending about 10 inches, and from fender to fender. I located one in a wreaking yard from a 1950, which the yard owner tells me is the same. For the price he is asking, plus shipping, I want a little more assurance it fill fit when I get it... Some of these guys will sell you anything.

    Does anyone know if the trunk pan would be the same for a '50 88 and a 51 S-88?? I know there is a body change between the two, but not sure about the part I need.

    If you don't know, just sell me one for a '51 and the problem will be solved....!

    Thanks in advance

  2. Damn..! I want yours....

    The invoice I have is for a '51 98 Del 4 Dr Sedan New Serial #5m9L-4504 Motor # 8C 28778 key # 8174.

    Base $2235.00

    Transportation $93.00

    Delivery and handling $136.50

    sales tax $30.00

    hydramatic $150.00

    heater $67.80 it goes on and on... Oil filter was $9.00, hub caps only $1.95?? sounds to cheap compared to filter...

    Oh, and... 18 gallons of gas was $2.98...! Boy, does that suck....

  3. Actually, the question is too simple..! so simple, it is extremely hard to answer..! How about a litle more information..?

    What are you working on, and what are you trying to do? Are you trying to start a car that has been sitting? A wire? YOu mean a cable from the battery to the starter?, a wire to the selonid? Give some detailed infornmation, and we'll give you an answer. When you ask questions, give every detail you can possibly come up with. Your question is way to broad to try to put an answer to.

  4. I have a bunch of stuff for a '51 98. The invoice when sold. It's from Ted Broeck Olds, rutherford NJ. Has all the info, base price, itemized options, total price, etc. Delco Batt Service Policy. A "Lubrication Plan Card", a punch card for oil changes, punched up to number 4, dated 3-13-51, Owners Service Policy, several service bills, A hand written note listing options the buyer wanted, and... A note saying the buyer originally ordered a 1950, but none were available, so he got a 1951.

    So, what are you looking for? Copies, or the original? I bought this from an estate. I have a 1951 S-88. If the stuff I have was for an 88, I wouldn't condider parting with it, but since it's for a 98, hmmm, maybe, if I found someone who would appreciatre it as much as I do....

  5. I am need of the back half of the trunk floor for my '51 S-88 4-door Olds. Anyone know if those two vehicles might share the same trunk floor?

    I'm not familiar with Buicks, but I know some of the GM bodies of that era were the same.

    Thanks......

  6. I lived in Northern Montana in the late 50's, and head bolt heaters were common place. As I recall, you removed a headbolt, and replaced it with a special bolt that had an electrical cord attached. It would keep the water warm. Just about every car you saw, had a plug hanging through the grill, which you attached to an extention cord when you arrive home at night. I was but a whisp of a ladd at the time, so I don't know much about them, but I guess they worked, 'cause everybody had one.

    I then moved to sunny So Calif and lived happily ever after. I worked for Oldsmobile in the 80's, and rebuilt/replaced many, many diesels. Everyone of them came from the factory with an electrical heating unit in the right front freeze plug. I suppose they were neccessary if you live in cold climate. We always removed them and replaced it with a standard freeze plug.

  7. Hi, I am registering a '51 Olds which I purchased out of state, so it has to be inspected before being registered in California. I'm a couple of hours south of you.

    The VIN number in the A pillar doesn't match the one on the title, or it didn't on mine. The title shows the engine number, rather than the VIN number, which was the standard practice back in the day.

    My car is under construction, so I wasn't able to take it to the DMV or the Hiway Patrol for inspection. The lady at the DMV told me there are private, licensed business' that will come to your house to inspect it. I called one of those company's and they will come to my house for $35.00, and do an official inspection so you can get it registered. My car was from out of state, so inspection is mandatory. If your car came from Calif, you may not be mandated to have an inspection, but with the number on the title not matching the VIN, it might be a good idea.

    If your car is drivable, just take it to the local DVM or Hiway Patrol office.

    I haven't yet had my inspection because one of their rules is, the car has to be complete, on four wheels, and resembling the car it is, Quote, unquote..!! I have my front fenders off, and the front suspension apart, being rebuilt, so I have to wait until it's back together and then call for an inspection.

    If you have any other questions that I might be able to help with, give me a shout..!

    BUNNELLYL@AOL>COM

  8. I agree with JohnD. There is a lot of "Way overboard" going around. Make sure you have oil in it, make sure your fuel is fresh, check for fuel and spark, and fire it up. It will get primed in a quick hurry once it is running..!

    I wouldn't even bother changing the oil until it is running, and warmed up, then, if it's dirty, change it.

    You have enough other things to worry about, such as, is it getting fuel, is the carb leaking, is it getting spark. Start with the fundamentals. If you have spark, I wouldn't even bother to tune it until you get it running and assess what you have. In other words, make sure if the engine is even worth messing with before you dump money into it.

    If it runs OK, check the brakes, and if they are working, take it for a little putt to check out the trans. If everything is ok then you can spend money on it. Don't get in to deep until you know that your major components are in good condition.

    Good luck, and keep us posted.

  9. Powder coat it. Have it done in semi-gloss to eliminate the plastic shine look. It's inexpensive and bullet proof. Most powder coaters do the whole operation, sandblast it and then coat it.

  10. Interesting topic. I don't do shows, so it doesn't really concern me, but if it did, I would be getting the email address of the repro manufacturing companies, and sending them a copy of this thread.

    Let them know how their captive audience feels about their lack of quality. If nothing else, it would be interesting to hear their response, or if they fail to respond, that would be a pretty good indication of their true feeling on the subject., and how they feel about their customers...

  11. When I was in high school, my dad got me out of bed to put his car away, that I had left in the driveway. I was half asleep, and put it in the garage, and through the garage..! I only moved the back wall out a couple of feet at the bottom, and didn't even scratch the '52 S-88, but it scared the Hell out of me... Something I haven't gorgotten after 40 years....

  12. I deal with a little diesel speciaity shop. He does nothing but rebuild diesel pumps for any brand. He can also repair or replace any injectors I have ever thrown at him.

    I'm in So calif, but I'm sure there are a million little diesel pump speciality shops all over the country. Find one in your area.

    I worked for Olds when that engine was popular. The first thing we did when the engine was out, on the stand, was rip off the pump and injecters, and take them over to the guy who did the pumps. While we were rebuilding or replacing the short block (never did valve jobs, those heads were bullet proof!), the pump guy would rebuild the pump, and pop-off test the injectors. When the engine was ready, the pump was usually ready. Put on the pump and injectors, and slam it in the car and ship it..! After doing a few dozen of those engines, it was not unusual to drive one in in the morning, and ship it at the end of the day, or first thing next morning. I loved working on those engines.

  13. To me, it would depend on the condition of the car. If it is original and in super condition, spend the money to keep it original..!

    If the car is an old shell that is in the same condition as the engine, go for it, burn rubber.....

    I love hot rods, got my start there, but like the old saying goe, "it's only original once!". Any oldie that can be saved, should be saved. If you turn it into a hot rod, you just increased the value of the other survivors .....

    Have to admit though, those are wicked prices you're quoteing... But spend it and enjoy it, or the kids will get it all .... A couple of grand for an original, new engine isn't much....

  14. I would think the condition would depend on how well it was prepared. Looking at the pictures, it doesn't show any wrapping of any kind, however the text says it was lowered and raised several times for photo purposes, so perhaps it was prepared better than it appears, for the final lowering, after the camera's left.

    If they completely wrapped the car in a cosmoline cloth wrap, like doctors use to make molds or casts, only with cosmoline rather than plaster, it just might come through in pretty good condition.

    Wrap that sucker up like a mummy..!

    Even though they didn't know then that '57 Plymouths tend to rust, they had to have had a pretty good understanding that any metal will rust, if not properly prepared.

    It's fun to speculate, and gives everyone another reason to look forward to the return of spring.

  15. I read an interesting story waiting for the dentist this morning. The City of Tulsa, Oklahoma buried a brand new 1957 Plymouth in the lawn in front of the Courthouse, in June, 1957. It was a contest. Guess what the population of Tulsa would be in 2007, and the closest guess wins the Plymouth, when it will be exhumed in June, 2007, at the fiftieth anniversary of the city.

    All fluids drained, and the car covered in cosmoline, and wrapped in plastic, and placed in a concrete vault. Five quarts of oil, and 10 gallons of gas were placed in the trunk, along with a case of beer, and numerous other items of interest from 1957. there were pictures of them preparing the car for burial, and the lowering of the coffin.

    I'm wondering if the winning guess person is even still with us, after fifty years, and even with the precautions, will there be much left of the car.

    I thought it was interesting, and I'm curious to see what happens in June when it rises from the grave.

    Has anyone else heard of this, and able to shed more light on the subject? It would be a real prize for a Mopar fan to get a hold of this car, if it is in any kind of decent condition. I'm sure the story will get around as the date gets closer

    Thoughts, anyone....?

    After I wrote this, i did a search and found a couple of articles on it. Interesting reading.

    http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/57plymouth.htm

    http://www.classiccar.com/articles/content/index.php?/archives/3-The-Burying-of-a-Classic.html

  16. The tires on my car were put on in 1975, and then parked until January '06. The never lost a drop of air, and look like new. Not even any sidewall cracking, which I found amazing. I have driven it around the neighborhood, probably never over 20 MPH, but I would be hesitant to go much over 40, and certainly never would take it on the hi way. When the car is finished, that will be the last thing I change before driving it on a regular basis..

    I deal with trucks at work, and the re-caper looks for date stamps on the tire. They refuse to cap any tire five years or older, for safety reasons. I realize trucks are far different than a car, but it kind tells you something about safety and the life expectancy of tire construction. If they won't put their butt on the line for a tire over five years old, I sure won't gamble with mine.

  17. OK, here we are, the next morning, and I just got off the phone with One Stop. As the other gentlemen stated, there is no listing for a rotor from 1967 to 1970. He did tell me if I could get some casting numbers, he may be able to come up with something. Look on the rotor and see if you can get some casting numbers.

    Other than that, you will have to go the junkyard route. as previously mentioned, make sure to mic any used rotors, to make sure they are in spec. You are only allowed to turn a rotor .060, so it doesn't take much to render them useless.

    good luck in your search....

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