DodgeSavesUMoney

These might help: Rhode Island Wiring Service: http://www.riwire.com/ Direct link to 1955 Chrysler Windsor catalogue page: http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/40/CAT213.HTM YnZ's Yesterdays Parts: http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ YnZ seems to carry just about as many wiring harnesses as Rhode Island Wiring, but I did not see the '55 Windsor in their catalogue. I may have overlooked it or you may need to contact them directly. Hope these help.

I used Mobil's 600w Steam Cylinder oil in my Fast Four and that worked well (I too bought a 5 gallon bucket from a local distributor). It didn't stop all the drips, but then, as my Dad always says, with an old car the problem starts when it stops dripping. Snyder's Ford Parts sells 600w by the quart for $6.25, just don't tell your Dodge where it came from! http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/detail...m_parentid=1751

Jim, My fast four was black! Even though it was a replacement engine and rebuilt, I also received the original engine when I bought the car and it was black too. Romar does have the green paint if you want to go that route.

Roberts Motor Parts http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/index.html

Thanks Chris, your response is more helpful than you know! I currently live at 8,700 feet. According to what I have read, I need to subtract 1 psi for every 2,343 in altitude. Therefore, my outside atmospheric pressure is 10.99 psi. Following your calculation below of 6.5 times 10.99, I get 71.435 psi. Does this sound right to you? At those calculations, it looks like the motor may be stronger than I thought! Thanks again!

Thanks everyone, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. Mine run an average of about 70 lbs. across all cylinders. It doesn't burn oil and still manages to pull the family up the Rocky Mountains. I too can't imagine what 110 lbs. feels like!

Thanks Frank, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. Mine run an average of about 70 lbs. across all cylinders. It doesn't burn oil and still manages to pull the family up the Rocky Mountains. I can't imagine what 110 lbs. feels like!

You may want to try either on the right side of the frame just above and behind the right front spring rear shackle/hanger or on the left side of the frame just under and behind the front left spring rear shackle/hanger. These appear to be popular locations based upon previous posts to this forum. The area may be dirty/rusty so you may need clean the areas to see it.

I posted the question below on the Dodge Brothers forum also. I'd appreciate any thoughts from any member of the MoPAR family. Hi, I was wondering if someone could help me out... I'm trying to determine a correct compression pressure for my 1936 Dodge 217 cubic inch L-Head. I know the compression ratio is 6.5 but what I'm trying to find out is what that means in pressure when it comes to reading a compression gauge. The last page of "Motor's Auto Repair Manual" states that if your ratio is 6.5, then the pressure should be around 110 lbs., give or take up to 20 lbs based on differences in manufacturer engine designs and possible variances in cylinder and head castings. So based on that, am I correct to assume that the pressure should be anywhere between 90 - 130 lbs.? Can anyone tell me if I am even close to correct, what they think the compression pressure should be, or what their current compression pressure is on their engine of the same size? Any information anyone can provide will be more than appreciated! Thanks!

I'm thinking that Bob is probably right. The "T" engine is probably a 1934 - 1935 Dodge Truck, one of the KC models and the "L", if it is a "P", is a 1951-52 Plymouth, according to the engine numbers in "Motor's Auto Repair Manual".

Hi, I was wondering if someone could help me out... I'm trying to determine a correct compression pressure for my 1936 Dodge 217 cubic inch L-Head. I know the compression ratio is 6.5 but what I'm trying to find out is what that means in pressure when it comes to reading a compression gauge. The last page of "Motor's Auto Repair Manual" states that if your ratio is 6.5, then the pressure should be around 110 lbs., give or take up to 20 lbs based on differences in manufacturer engine designs and possible variances in cylinder and head castings. So based on that, am I correct to assume that the pressure should be anywhere between 90 - 130 lbs.? Can anyone tell me if I am even close to correct, what they think the compression pressure should be, or what their current compression pressure is on their engine of the same size? Any information anyone can provide will be more than appreciated! Thanks! Lee

I'm not sure who you have tried and who you haven't. Have you tried Andy Bernbaum? www.oldmoparts.com

Mine has the metal insert also. I'm not certain when the change to a metal insert took place but "The Dodge Story" by McPherson states that Dodge went to all all metal roof (meaning no insert at all) in 1937.

Sorry, can't help on the headlight, as a matter of fact, I need a new beam adjustment screw and the bottom bucket parts, for bottom of one of mine. I have two places you may want to contact for instrument related items. The first is Bob's Speedometer in Howell, Michigan. http://www.bobsspeedometer.com I purchased a new speedometer for my 36 Dodge because the previous owner replaced the original with a 38. Bob's wasn't cheap, but the speedometer was restored and looks fantastic. They do the gauge restoration work for The Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan. The other company I spoke with when hunting down the speedometer was D & M Restoration in Greenville, South Carolina. http://dandmrestoration.home.mindspring.com/ They were not able to help me, but were very responsive to my inquires and even gave me suggestions as to other people to contact. I believe I found both of them in Hemmings. As for the temp gauge, I'm not thinking that $169 is too bad of a price. I purchased one last year from Valley Vintage Auto Parts on the store on ebay and paid $110 for a NOS. Even at that price, I had to swap out my original faceplate with the one that came on it because it was stained. At that time, $110 was the best price I could find. I hope this helps a bit.

I use Brasso too. It has worked really well from car parts to old telephones.

Thanks Ken. I would certainly trust Ken. He has done a beautiful job on his car.

Adcap, I'd be happy to send you pictures. If you would please send me your e-mail address, I'll send you an assortment since we can only add them one at a time on this board. Like I mentioned in some of my previous posts, my car is a driver, not restored. It is pretty much complete but the previous owner gave it a pretty poor paint job. I have not had my running boards redone. The only company I know of is Street Rods, Parts & Memorabilia at http://srpm.safeshopper.com/, who sells much of their stuff on ebay. I'm not suggesting that this is the only place to get the running boards from, just the only place I know of. Just a warning, they are a street rod company. The only reason I know of them is from ebay and I have never done business with them. I am NOT a street rodder! I'm one of those guys that winces when I see a Ford chopped up and crys when I see a Mopar mangled up.

Sounds like something is broken in the latch mechanism itself. Looks like you may need to remove the inner panel to get a better look at what is going on.

I can't say if all models were chrome, perhaps someone else has a '36 where the rings are painted? Hopefully someone will respond. I believe that all of the light switches had the small high beam light but again, if anyone has a different answer, please let us know.

Mine are chrome. See attached photo.

Rob, Can you explain what the handle is doing? Does it just spin, is it frozen, does it move at all? The mechanism may be bad and you may need to take the interior panel off to investigate.

Rob, Ask away, that's what the forum is for! The Serial Number plate would be on the hinge pillar on the passenger side front door. To see it, you would need to open the door and it will be on the pillar the hinges are on. You can't miss it. If you do not see it right away, it is probably missing. By the way, have you joined the Dodge Brothers Club yet? If not, I would STRONGLY recommend it. They are a great bunch!

Rob, like Ken, I do nothing to the gas I put in the car. With the hardened valve seats, there's really nothing to worry about. Even at the altitude I drive it (8,000-9,000 feet), I notice no pinging, knocking, etc. I would appreciate everyone's thoughts on transmission and rear end gear oil weights!

Rob, Jim makes some excellent points, along with everyone else that has added to your question. The suggestion I would add to Jim's comments are that I have a 6v Optima battery in mine and I am very happy with it. I personally have stuck with my 6 volt system. I'm happy with the system the way it is, even the lights at night. While they are dimmer than what we are used to, it reminds me to keep more on my toes at night and not over drive the headlights (and the brakes) at night. I live in the Rocky Mountains where there is almost no street lights and I still get by at night with the headlights the way they are, however, I really do not do that much long distance night driving.

Another view of the dash...