DodgeSavesUMoney

Is it supposed to be Jon Engle? http://www.automotiverubberparts.com/

When you say you have been unable to effectively downshift, are you saying that it will not allow you to shift into the gear or are you saying that it grinds? Will it not downshift only when you are moving or does it still not downshift if you are stopped with the engine still running?

Can you post a photo of the engine and the tag? I'm not sure how easy the tag is to read so I'll just ask....is it clear that it is 219 or could it be D19?

Hi, That may just be the body number. The serial number will be on the right front door pillar and the engine number will be on the left front of the cylinder block. Post the engine number and we will be able to tell if it is at least still a 1936 engine.

Humpbacks, Please see my reply on your previous post for instructions.

Humpbacks, While you are signed in to the forum, go to the "My Home" link, located at the top on the same line that says, "Welcome humpbacks". Once you select that and are taken to the "My Home" page, select "Edit" link to the right of the option "Personal information, email, password, etc." near the bottom of the page. When you get to the personal information page, down at the bottom you will see the instructions for loading and setting your avatar. You can either load one or have it point to a URL to get one, but there is a size limit.

My Fast Four was a standard and only had the rear shade with no tassles. It also didn't have the hand pulls on the sides near the door. The Deluxe had mohair on the seats, which the one in the photo looks like it has, plus the Deluxe had a fancier handle on the back of the front seat.

Reg, There is a current, active listing for a coupe headliner on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE-HEA...078734849QQrdZ1

Reg, I have seen these guys list a headliner on ebay, covering the years 1936-1956. I don't know anything about them, but they may be worth an e-mail. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE-HEA...sspagenameZWDVW There is also a temp gauge out there, looks like NOS: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-NOS...sspagenameZWD1V You may be able to get the choke and throttle cable from Mitchell Motor Parts: http://www.mmpar.com/mmpars/default.aspx or Andy Bernbaum: http://www.oldmoparts.com/ As for the tire bolt and bracket, the knobs for the choke and throttle cable, the gauge clusters, glove box latch, etc, that's where the search begins. Sometimes they show up on ebay, but it may take awhile before they do. Doesn't the 1938 Dodge have an automatic choke?

There is a 38 speedometer out on ebay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1938-Dodg...sspagenameZWDVW

Rob, From a safety approach, I would go for a safety glass replacement from your local glass shop. Some of the others on the forum can correct me, but I believe, even in serious judging, that no points are deducted if you have safety glass.

I agree with Rodger, with the oil gauge pressures shown, it looks to be from a fast four. I have seen this gauge arrangement on a 1927 Business Sedan that my Dad owned, which was built late in the 1927 production run so it should fit right in with your '27.

I haven't taken the tail light lense off of mine, however, I have taken the headlight lenses off. I found the process to be to loosen the screw on the bottom all the way till it is completely loose, then cup both hands on the face of the lense, fingers down and thumbs up. Push in on the bottom with your fingers and sort of peel down or rock downwards, like you are trying to shift the bottom in (meaning into the light body) and the top out towards you. If you do this bit by bit, it becomes easier to shift. The lense sort of curls out of the light housing from the top. The hardest part seemed to be to initially loosen it from the housing. Once it began to move, it became a job of going slow to understand what was happening.

Hi, what engine do you currently have? What year, make, model of car are you thinking of the swap for?

And another.

Here's one of my 1936 4-door sedan.

Ken's right, this question is Deja Vu. I have always used the water pump grease that Snyder's Ford Parts sells by the tube for $3.75, item number A-8500. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ModelAParts/WaterPump/1932 I also heard the Lubriplate product is pretty good.

The 1936 Dodge sales brochure lists the Touring Sedan as a "Two-Door with a Built-in Trunk", The Two-Door Sedan as a two door sedan without the trunk, and The Sedan as a "Seven Passenger with Built-in Trunk". At least that's how Dodge marketed them back in 1936.

Hi, I'll try and answer the questions that I can. All the models in 1936 were called "D2", not that they didn't have names like sedan, touring sedan, etc, but their official model designation was "D2". When it comes to the 4-door sedan, Dodge just called it "The Sedan" in their sales brochures. The serial numbers (or VIN today) for the 1936 production run started at 4015051, which would put yours in the earlier part of the run. The engine looks like it came out of a 1954 Plymouth. A 1936 Dodge motor would start D2, not P25. This was not an uncommon practice since the old L-heads remained basically unchanged for so many years. Posting a picture of it would help the forum here identify what is original, etc.

I use the water pump grease that Snyder's Ford Parts sells by the tube for $3.75, item number A-8500. Just don't tell your Chrysler product where it came from! http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ModelAParts/WaterPump/1932

Can you post a photo of it?

This will help you get started with tracking down the build sheet... http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/dbcwebsite/mod.php?mod=userpage&menu=903&page_id=2

Hi Pete, If you're interested in trying the repair yourself, the website Plymouth: The First Decade by Tod Fitch has the steps needed to do it. The temp gauge repair page is http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge Regards, Lee

Dave, Thanks! I've always assumed that #1 was at the radiator end of the block. Is that your assumption too?

Dave, I'm slightly confused. The MOTOR's Auto Repair manual lists the firing order as 1-5-3-6-2-4.