ronm10

Is if flooding or starving. I had a similar problem with mine. It was a starvation problem though. When I would get to high I was getting using more fuel and was collapsing the flex fuel line going to the fuel pump. check yours by shifting to high on a down hill slope where it is almost coasting and see if you still have the problem. As an aside I did not totally understand why you were going through all 4 gears on a gyromatic. For most situations not involving pulling just put it in high and drive way, lifting to allow it to shift into high-high once comfortably underway.

your tractor fluid could be one of two wieghts. Some do not specify but some do. Those that do will have a letter and then a number. A number 32 is the equivalent of 10 wieght oil. A number 64 has the same viscosity as 20 wieght oil. Although I have never seen it in writing, in comparing the two numbers, any I have seen with no code seemed the same as 10 wieght oil. Thus number 32 hydrolic fluid (which is what tractor fluid is) and 10W non-detergent oil are equivalent as far a weight.

Just a little update. I went through all the rod bearings and had from .0018 to .0023 inch of clearance. I went looking for shim stock and found out none of the local auto stores carry it anymore. So in a conversation with my father, an old shadetree farm tractor mechanic, he mentioned that standard weight aluminum foil is about .001 inch. So armed with that info I put a strip of aluminum foil between each rod lower rod cap and the bearing, except for the #1 bearing which had the .0023 inch clearance. On #1 I put two strips of foil. Plastigage of each bearing came up just under .0015 inches clearance. I called it good and buttoned her up. She still has a slight knock until for a minute or so until she starts to worm but I think that is a wrist pin. I am not going to worry about it no more miles then she will see in a year. Now to find the oil pump gasket as mentioned in a seperate post and I think her fuild leaking will be solved. Thanks to Jon for his good advice. Ron

Anyone have a cross reference or source for just the gasket for the oil pump? It is for a 50 Windsor with the l-head 6. The gasket is for the end of the pump, not the pump to block gasket. The pump clearances are all good but the gasket was old, brittle and leaked. If I can find that and rebuild a couple of brake cylinders I can still get in a little cruisin before the snow flys. Thanks, Ron

52er, Where did you get the window channels and fuzzies? Mine are mostly gone and I would like to replace them although it has been rather low priority. Thanks, Ron

Next question. I checked the first 3 rod bearings and had the following clearance results. #6 - .0018 inch; #5 - .0018 inch; and #4 - .002 inches. The bearings all look very good with no wear other than number 4. #4 has two stripes around it like a grain of sand or something got in there. The stripes are about as wide as the mark made by a medium point pen. Should I go back and use some shim stock to get the clearance down to .001 or so? And will the stripes on #4 bearing cause any harm? Thanks, Ron

I have a knock in my 50 Windsor. I think it is a rod bearing. So I am planning on pulling each cap and checking the clearance with plastigage. Does anyone know the spec that I should be looking for? Thanks Ron

Anyone have a source for the flex fuel line that connects to the fuel pump intake? I checked napa and autozone with no luck. One place could make one for $35 but that seemed a bit high so I thought I would check here first.

What is the best way to repair the script emblems on both my 50 Windsor and 68 Imperial? On the Windsor one of the "Windsor" emblems is broken so the "r" hangs down. On the Imperial the emblem is fine but the pegs on the back that attach it to the car are either broken or corroded off. Will an epoxy such as JB Weld work or is it better to solder them? All opinions and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ron

Thanks for the ideas. I will see about finding someplace with steam. I like that idea. I chipped, scrapped and scrubbed to where I could at least see all the zirks, but bright and totally clean would look great. My next project is a 41 John Deere B with even more accumulated crud so having something lined up may have future benefits.

Sorry if I ask a lot of questions. I am rather new at the restoration of old cars. What is the best/easiest way to remove 50 years of dirt, oil and grime from the suspension parts? (they are still on the car) Yesterday I spent a couple of hours with solvent, a wire brush and a tooth brush for the small places. Although it eventually does the job it is messy and slow going. Just hoping to find an easier alternative. Thanks, Ron

Just thought I would relate an experience I just had, perhaps save someone else a little hair loss. My 50 Windsor had been in storage for almost 10 years. Finally, I bought a place with shop and parking facilities to be able to play with her once again. She had ran fine when parked, having taken me on several 1000 mile plus trips. So after trailering her home I put in a new battery, took out each spark plug and put in a little Marvel's, drained the old gas and replaced, cleaned the sediment bowl and all the other little things to get her ready to spring back to life. After a little hand cranking to help lube the cylinder walls and such I primed the carb and turned her over. She would start and run for 5 to 10 seconds then act like she ran out of gas. I could see that the accelerator pump was pumping gas in so I should have been able to keep her coughing along just by that even if the float or something else in the carb where gummed up. And thanks to a sediment bowl (wonderful things) I could see that she was getting gas so the gas pump was indeed doing it's part. After a dozen such tries and stops at starting her some raw gas must have made the way to the exhaust as she popped. I tried one more time to start her and she kept going and purred right along. When I looked underneath I found what had been the problem. There was mouse nest stuffing all under the car (the tail pipe is rusted off just back of the muffler) and a couple of holes in the rusty muffler where the exhaust is coming out. I had been getting enough back pressure after 5 seconds of running that she would quit. When I heard the pop it had blown out some stuffing and blown a couple of holes in the old rusty muffler. I watched for the next half hour to make sure I didn't get a fire started in the mouse material that was undoubtedly still in the pipe. The moral of the story is to think about a plugged exhaust when she won't run but you know you have spark and fuel. Now I am off to remove a rusty exhaust system and undoubtedly a little skin from my knuckles. Ron

Thanks for the info. I found a drain plug on the lower part of the canister. I appreciate all the help

Is the canister on the full flow oil system supposed to stay full? Even if my car sits for long periods when I go to change the oil filter oil spills all over because the canister is full. It would see me that the oil would drain back down into the pan after the engine is shut off. Do I have some plugged passages some place. Regards, Ron

Can anyone tell me the correct white wall width for the tires on a 50 Windsor? I see that Coker offers several widths in there brand and BF Goodrich. Thanks Ron