bhclark
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Posts posted by bhclark
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I have used Uship several times, always with positive results. Just read the reviews and you should be able to tell the bad from the good.
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Sounds great! Thanks Roy!
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Best of luck. Not currently reproduced. NOS show up occasionally on Ebay.
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So theoretically someone could drive an all original car to a meet and come away with 3 awards... Cool...
Sounds like a great idea to me!
The big obstacle is getting more judges and getting judging administration done in time. There are options here. In Ames, I believe Driven cars were judged on Friday, allowing for those cars to be 400 pt judged on Saturday as well, but that's not necessarily necessary.
Also, the new standard for the Saturday awards ceremony has been set at about 2 hours. Multiple awards on 1 car would jeopardize that swift event.
Looking forward to Springfield!
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I have been particularly absent from the forums for the last several months. I am just returning to work from a difficult shoulder surgery and haven't spent much time in front of a computer period for the last few months.
I do plan on getting back into the swing of things now that I am on a more regular schedule (and off the pain killers).
Not allowed to work on cars for at least another month or two...which keeps me out of the freezing cold garage.
12 ounce curls are my current limit...which has led to another problem. I need to spend some time at the gym!
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I will substitute a different 12V battery next time I have a chance to work on the car. Only 1.5 weeks until my surgery, plus I've got a "new to me" car coming over. My Mom's 1992 Acura integra Hatchback with under 40,000 miles. It will need some basic attentions. All fluids changed, new tires, etc from sitting the most part of the last 3 years. I'm hoping for no fuel issues. I've kept it topped off with fresh gas and stabil.
The boots on the '96 rav are shot. This one is torn wide open on the big end, the other is cut on the small end. At about $20 a boot, it doesn't make any sense to replace them since I have to pull the axle to do it. (I've never done that). The bearing was replaced as a safety issue. I'll keep an eye out on the u-joint and be prepared next time with the new axles. They are only about $45, so it doesn't make sense to repair them, just swap them out.
The Rav4 is my 16 year old daughter's car, so 90% of it's driving is 2 miles each way to school and 4 miles to her boyfriends house. Plus, it burns (valves) and leaks (timing cover) a quart of oil a week......so there' is limited money I'm willing to invest to fix it.
It needs about $4000 worth of work to make it a $2000 car. (complete exhause, shocks, struts, axles, engine rebuild). On the plus side, it's a really cute 2 door Rav4, so I'll do my best to keep it running safely for now. -
Not yet. Time is not on my side. I did buy a new starter relay but have not installed it yet.
I do have new flooring throughout the first floor of the my current project.
I'm in the middle of replacing front hubs and bearings on my daughter's Rav4 at the moment. It's always something...
Brr, it's getting cold in the garage.
Got the hub back from the machine shop and reinstalled. I'm beat. It's snowing....
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Thanks Guys. It will probably be next monday or Tuesday night before I get a chance to work on it again. I'm in the middle of a home improvement project as well.
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I will recheck those wires and possibly replace them.
The main starter wire (2-4 gauge maybe?) appeared to have a cloth like coating that was still completely intact, but was overwrapped with another cloth layer. It may have been rubber with the imprint of the cloth overlay? I removed the layer that was falling apart and wrapped only as an extra precaution. The 2 smaller wires were standard rubber coated wire. I thought I checked those for continuity as well, but will recheck them.
Installed the new starter solenoid last night. No change.
I'll work on it again Wednesday, although I have a lot of house repairs I need to get to in the next 3 weeks as well.
I am going in for rotator cuff surgery on 11/25 and won't be able to do much of anything for months. That's part of my frustration...I am on a tight timeline to get this car back up and running.
Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm doing the best I can to follow it!
I'm sure what it really needs is a second set of eyes.
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As a last ditch effort for the night, I pulled the voltage regulator.
I found that it was missing the rubber grommet on the bottom, possibly allowing a short.
I reinstalled it with the grommet and no dice. No change.
The Voltage regulator I have as a spare is questionable.
It's a Duralast VR699. According to AutoZone's website, the correct one is VR1199. I'm sure they sold it to me for my '59, which uses the same one.
The visible difference is that it has 2 resistors on the bottom instead of 3 and it's half the price.
AZ lists it as correct for a Canadian emissions car???????
I'm considering trying it...not that I expect a change, but....
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I'm changing her name from Snow White to Christine....All I wanted to do was take some pictures for an Ebay ad.....AAAARRRGGGHHHHHH!
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And I'm running out of light. And patience.
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It was the negative battery terminal that sparked and got hot. All gauges are currently all the way to the left, except the ammeter which is sitting dead center regardless of ignition key location.
The center contact on the voltage regulator appeared stuck. I just popped it loose.
Contacts on points are not stuck.
I have hooked the generator back up for these continuity tests, but not the starter solenoid. I took it apart to see if anything was melted and I have a new one coming as I don't trust it put back together by me.
. Everything appeared ok, all wires were connected. I think I may have overtightened it when I put it back together and twisted a wire off. As a baseline, the negative battery cable is hooked up, positive is not.
Negative terminal did show a 7.7, but now it's only showing .6
Positive cable started at 200 (that's the ohm setting I'm using) and counted down?
Terminal block shows nothing with the three wires disconnected.
black wire shows 145. I think this goes to the ammeter.
Negative side of the terminal block shows. 1.2
I tested the actual starter wires earlier when I rewrapped them and confirmed continuity of the wires themselves.
I don't know if I did these tests correctly.
I think I'm going to just put everything back together and call around and see if I can find a mechanic who might know what he's doing on this.
The generator was reading a high charge the few times we drove it after the new wiring harness was installed and has been getting hotter than the one on my '59. Same "professional" rebuilt it. I wasn't sure if the issue was the generator, NOS ammeter, or voltage regulator. The car was only running yesterday long enough to pull out of the garage, then back in. Not long enough for anything to overheat. Maybe 10 minutes total.
The generator is not showing any signs of the core melting and disconnecting the generator being connected/disconnected was not making any difference in the electrical status of the car.
I'm getting continuity to the headlight connectors and horn wires as well....just no functional power. Ugh.
I've got a spare voltage regulator, but someone else said a bad one wouldn't affect lights and horn....but I can put it on and try?
The one on the car has a sticker that says not to ground the "F" terminal...does that mean it doesn't need "polarized" after power has been disconnected?
I've wasted all day on this.....and gotten nowhere buy dirty.
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I've got the generator and starter disconnected at the moment.
Voltmeter reads 12 volts from positve block to both sides of the coil and to both sides of the carburetor ignition switch.
I only get 12 volts to 2 of the terminals on the relay adjacent to the battery distribution block.
Does that make sense?
What should I disconnect next or is there something I should jumper to try to isolate the problem?
This is the diagram I am working from.
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no change with all 3 wires removed from the starter.
The 12 volts at the starter solenoid was from pos to S and Pos to R, not S to R.
I've checked the body harness, the wires to the headlight switch, the wires to the ignition, wiring to the generator. I can't find anything wrong....but still no power anywhere.
I'm hoping it's something very simple that I'm just overlooking.
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No resistor.
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Is there a fusible link on the main power feed from the starter solenoid to the fuse block?
Sure sounds like a blown fusible link...
They typically look like this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]277416[/ATTACH]
You're looking for evidence of melted or damaged wire and/or insulation.
You would still have battery voltage at the positive solenoid post, but there will be no conductivity to the main fuse panel if the link is blown.
To repair it, you remove the blown link and replace it with a new one of the same rating.
If it immediately blows again, you're going to have to do some investigative work to find and eliminate the short that causes it too blow.
It appears to be a solid strand wire, no fusable link? Can anyone confirm that for 1958?
I cleaned terminals and installed a new battery ground wire.
I removed the 3 wires going to the starter, removed the last of the original cloth wiring, cleaned, verified continuity and rewrapped.
I reinstalled all connections at the positive junction block and the starter.
I reinstalled all 3 connections at the starter solenoid.
Is it ok that I added a touch of dielectric grease to ensure good connectivity? Or was that a bad idea?
When I reconnected the negative terminal, I now get a spark and if I leave it connected, the negative terminal heats up and I get a bit of smoke from the positive junction block. I did put a layer of electrical tape on top of the original block to ensure no grounding there. This shouldn't get hot enough to melt the electrical tape should it? I'm afraid to leave it connected due to the smoke.
I could remove the electrical tape and dielectric grease and try again?
Could the starter solenoid be fried inside causing the issue?
Could it be the (negative?) relay (manual calls it a solenoid relay) next to the positive relay that is causing the problem? It looks original, but could be a NOS replacement. I can't go by the "professional" that rewired it as they billed me for new starter cables and battery cables, but did not replace them......
I've got the shop manual out, but the wiring diagrams in it are so tiny and sparse that they aren't helping me much.
Attached is a before and after pic of the junction block. I'm certain I reconnected everything the same way I took it apart. Also a shot of the starter solenoid now.
I can't try to trace current with the current problem....
Update:
I removed the positive lead from the starter solenoid and have the same issue.
I removed the positive junction block from the fender and no sparks? I assume this is supposed to be completely isolated from the body and might be shorting? Would a piece of rubber between the block and fender be appropriate to isolate this, at least temporarily?
Okay, it looks like this block is both positive and negative. I bolted the positive leads together separate from the block and athe ignition showed some signs of life when I turned the key, but nothing from the starter. I initially got a little reaction from the gauges, but now nothing. Still no lights, etc...
I am now getting 12 volts at both terminals on the starter solenoid.
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Thanks guys! I'll jack her up and take a look, probably not until Monday though.
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After pulling the '58 out of the garage and washing the top and underside, I went to drive it around the block before putting her back in the garage. When I hit the curb at the end of the driveway, the car quit.
Now I have no power anywhere. Battery shows 12.5 volts. 12.5 volts at the starter.
I have no lights, no crank, nothing.
It's acting like a dead short. I've checked all the visible wiring, body harness, dash wiring, etc and I don't see anything that could possibly be shorting out.
This is the car that had the entire wiring harness "professionally" replaced, including most switches and gauges attached.
I checked the coil wire, starter wiring, generator wiring, etc.
I've got an inclined driveway, so I've given up for the night and called AAA to come put it in the garage for me.
At this point I'm thinking voltage regulator or ignition switch. Would either of those cause a complete loss of power to the entire car, lights, ignition, etc?
HELP!
Electrical is a weakness of mine, so please be thorough in any explanation or ideas.
I've got to work all day tomorrow, so it will likely be Monday before I get a change to do much more troubleshooting.
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Best wishes for a speedy recovery John!
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Awesome solution! Mine was leaking badly but luckily I had a spare on the shelf. In these Cincinnati winters, no telling how long that one will last. I may pick up one of these at my local pull and pay just in case! Wish I'd saved the bad on now for that needed bracket.
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By wobble do you mean it moves up and down? Mine does that....
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I was thinking that the national BCA is in charge? Just wonder.
Dale in Indy
Actually, the National Meet Committee is in charge of virtually everything National Meet related. Jerry Courson is Meet Director for Springfield, MO.
Volunteers for the meet are welcome from any and all chapters, not just the chapters in the local area. Meet profits are shared with the volunteers' local chapters.
Question about collector car insurance
in General Discussion
Posted
I tried to save a few bucks by switching away from JCTaylor (no claims). After a bad claim experience with American Modern, I switched to Hagerty after shopping around. I felt they had the best value for the best service based on feedback I have seen. Heacock would have been my second choice.
Only complaint I have about Hagerty is that they wouldn't insure my 1992 Acura on an agreed value policy due to the old average age of my daily drivers. (1990,1996,1997 and 2005). My DD policy won't insure it as on an agreed value policy because it's not 25 years old.