DDewey
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Posts posted by DDewey
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First get some Kroil and let it soak down the studs, rust on the studs is likely keeping the head on. PB is OK, but Kroil is much better! You may have to order it online from Kano Labs. Kroil also comes in an orange aerosal (sp?) can as AreoKroil. The stuff ain't cheap, but it's GREEEEEAT!
David D.
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Ah, I was right--that doesn't happen to often!! Yes, AFAIK is internet short for "As Far As I Know" sorry for the confusion (both! heh heh heh)
I believe the term "broadcloth" comes from the carriage days (yikes, I shouldn't make such a comment--I was right once, this is tempting the fates!)
Vern, this mill sounds most interesting! The only other sources I know for yardage are; Le Baron Bonney Co., Hampton Coach (did they merge?), and Bill Hirsch. There may be others though--but all "back east." A supplier out west here would be great!
David D.
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Ah, once infected, forever susceptiable--you'll be back, maybe after the house, but someday! Hope all goes well with you.
David D.
16 DB Touring
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AFAIK, not all Broadcloth is ribbed. I understood it is a name for a heavy cloth material. I've seen it as a solid color, a patterned color, color striped and as a ribbed material.
David D.
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Hmm, I'll reword my response: These are made of unobtainium. Why, I don't know. You might try a "wanted" posting in the Model A websites. One place that might have then is A&L Parts Specialities. It seems like a fairly simple item to reproduce, compared to the part that is currently available--which must be used someplace else, where the demand is large enough to keep manufacturing numbers up.
David D.
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Yep, that's what was ORIGINALLY used on Model As--many models, with carpets. However, what is available nowadays is a ring with pointed tabs that goes on the top of the capret, and through a stamped with snap ring base the fits over the body mounted "studs." Very similar to the orginal, but not--high point restorers look for these and as they aren't common!
David D.
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John,
What 25" wheel do you have? I need one rear, wood felloe
David D.
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Ed,
That looks fantastic. Wish I could find a pic of our old '36--but they're somewhere in storage--film--remember that stuff??
David D.
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brad,
Just noticed this on eBay. It's not in great shape, but looks like lots more is there than on yours.
Hmm, that's a long url, the ebay auction number is:
180322232250
Right now it's at $75 US
good luck!
David D.
PS, your grill and hood look exactly like what I remember on our family's '36 Dodge Truck 1-ton with pickup bed (had 20" Budd wheels--sad story why it's still not in the family).
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Agreed, thought that was what I was saying. Most platers doing custom work (re-chroming or nickeling antique car parts) won't eliminate the copper strike because they don't want the work coming back on them.
Nickel was/is put directly on brass too, I don't know if adhesion is better or worse than copper.
David D.
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While I'm not a plater, I have read and talked to many folks about the process.
Nickel can be put over bare steel, but adhesion is not the best, it's just a cheaper process--and in the case of the nuts, is thinner and less likely to chip when wrenched. The copper strike is used for both adhesion and a filler to make the surface as smooth as possible. Back in the day, the nickel layer had to be polished to make it shine--today the process uses other chemicals and "bright nickel" that doesn't require this process. Our cars were plated with "grey nickel" (not a technical term).
Chrome plate itself is a nearly clear finish, with a bluish cast. It is used over nickel to prevent oxidation of the nickel. the bit of blue is why it looks different from straight nickel.
Now, if you've been reading between the lines, you may have picked up on why many interior parts were done in "Butler Finish" which is a duller finish than polished nickel. The finish is final polished with a fairly course buffing compound. Today we do this to gloss plating to dull it down, back then it was done to provide a texture to an already dull finish.
Between the lines also tells you that many itmes were only polished on the visible surfaces. A good example of this would be the Model A ford bumpers. Although chromed, the nickel was only polished on the front faces, and halfway around the rounded ends, the back,and top and bottom edges were not. Today, if one wants that effect and is using a bright nickel, then media blast can be use to dull the nickel before applying the chrome. This is seldom done except by the really finicky, blue ribbon judged restorers--the labor cost is too much!
David D.
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Hmm, I beg to differ with the statement that the year models matched the calendar year. The chart I have clearly shows the year model starting on July 1 of the preceeding year (July 1, 1915 for the 1916 model).
BTW, 104,xxx and 106xxx both show as "1917 model" on this chart (Late Oct, early Nov '16)
David D.
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Hmm, my car has the Magneto ignition, but the dash is set up for the combination switch--so would the Clum switch be used between the individual switches and the Briggs switch?
Thanks!
David D.
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Are the Briggs switches used only during certain production periods, or just an optional supplier?
David D.
May '16 Touring
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Rodger
Thanks!! That should help my friend, I'll forward this to him ASAP.
David D.
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Hi,
I have a few "extra" dash assemblies with glove boxes. I understand that in the cars, these were dropped about 1918, but seem to remember being told that the Screensides had them much later. Also understand that the screenside dash is taller? These dashes all had the ignition/light switch combination. Any dimensions etc. that could help me ID these?
Thanks!
David D.
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Sorry to steal your thread, Bill!
I have a JM white faced dial type speedo to replace this one, but all the ones I've seen, including this one, have the speedo drive connection centered at the very bottom of the speedo body. The speedo case that's left in my dash (vandals took out the rest of it decades ago) has the connection offset to the passenger side, also pointing straight down. Has anyone seen another one like this? I'd post a pic, but it's buried under tarps.
Thanks!
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While we're on the subject of '16 speedos, my car's speedo remains (housing only, pretty much)have the cable coming in on the passenger side of the housing, straight down, like the others I've seen, but they're all centered at the bottom of the housing. Anyone have any clues as to what the original speedo in this car was?
thanks!
David D.
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Steve,
Guess I'll keep lookin' Another factor is likely the liability issue too. I have plenty of time to look for a wheel, it'll be years before my touring hits the road!
David.
BTW, I was figuring the market would be more than just DB folks & Hot Rodders would probably buy them too.
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Adam,
We are all assuming that the 10L tank is below the lever of the vacume tank, and the hose runs DOWN to it, so you aren't accidently creating a syphon. Otherwise, I'd suspect that you have some dirt in the vacume tank or a rusted out spring on the float valve.
You might consider taking the original gas tank off the car and seeing about cleaning it, if it doesn't have pinholes in it. Might be easier than modifying something else to work--and the electric pump is likely to have too much pressure for the carb.
David D.
PS: Don't worry about the horn working, the radiator plainly says on it, "Dodge, Bro!"
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At the prices these are now going for, I would think someone would be reproducing them?
David D.
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Bob,
MORE PICS!! I can't be the only one here who'd like to see more details.
David D.
16 Touring
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Reg,
Wow, that's what I was talking about. IMHO, it look like the rest of your dash may come out as great. Don't go overboard on the cleaning, sometimes the finish's bond to the metal isn't great, but a new coat of clear really helps there too.
David Dewey
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Sometimes original woodgrain can be brought back by careful and thorough cleaning, a light sanding of the top clear coat, and re-applying more clear coat.
Note SOMETIMES! I have seen some amazing results!
David D.
Looking for a clum key
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Back to my switch question:
In my dash right now are the remains of a switch with a "knob" that has two "wings" top and bottom, identical--they're about a chevron shape from the side The "new" switch has "straight wings" although one end tapers, like a point. The new switch has connections for "GROUND" "MAG" "HEADS" "REAR" "BAT" and "A11" stamped on it too. The lock cylinder has "14" stamped on the front.
Would this one be correct for my car? is the one in the dash (missing cylinder and all electrics) the correct one, or a replacement?
Thanks!
David D.