DDewey
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Posts posted by DDewey
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What year?
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Speaking of rear fenders, there is a current ad for a pair on the DB want ads.
David D.
PS A lot of '17 DBs are running around on the 24" wheels, because they have metal felloes.
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When it comes to painting, "messing something up" is how you learn!! The only difference between a good painter and an excellent painter is the excellent one knows how to fix or hide his/her mistakes!
I have no depth perception, but I can paint, and have painted concourse winning cars in a back yard under a carport--so don't let anything stop you from trying! (yeah, the folks at the show refused to believe that's how I painted the car!). Do be safe though, there are BAD chemicals in paint, so cover up, wear a proper respirator, etc. All the safety stuff doesn't cost very much, but it saves your life! (Safety stuff: tyveck disposable coveralls, head sock, eye protection, filtered respirator, rubber gloves, and lots of ventilation with NO open flames around!)
David D.
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Gee, I don't think your DB wheels would fit in my bicycle wheel truing stand!!
Better get the wheels done before driving up here in it!
Bad rainstorm due too. . .
There is a guy in Ataskadero (sp?) who does do wheel spoking!
David
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When I did bicycle wheels, I would "pluck" the spokes, the sound will tell you how tight they are. Should work with car wheels to, I'd think.
David D.
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Well, you have a lot more there together than I have on my touring, and I'm putting mine back together. (see pics below, those front wheels on mine are Ford wheels welded to the wood spoke wheel hubs; I have wood spoked wheels to replace them. That upside-down piece in the foreground is the back half of the body) If you want to drive yours around, I'd put some used tires on those rear wheels , and drive it until you find authentic wheels. Authentic wheels could be wood spoked, like the ones previously mentioned on eBay (but those will still need the tire rims), or they could be wire spoked wheels, similar to what you have on the front (but I'm not certain those are DB correct wheels on yours). It might take some time to find them, or you might just fall over them one day. Rear fenders show up, and the running board aprons can easily be produced--the running boards are wood, so that's not hard to do either. As mentioned before, not very many roadsters out there!
DB's are known for being durable, and they're fun to drive too. You can get hooked on 'em!
David D
Oh, if you haven't heard, don't worry about a horn, the radiator says right on the front, "Dodge, Bro"! Heh heh heh!
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RE: Outside door locks.
Having only one lock on the passenger's side was common. Reason there and not driver's side is that you could unlock the car from the curb, not in the traffic lane when parked in a city. (Probably didn't matter out in the country where there would be no curb or sidewalk!)
David D.
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Mike,
I'm sorry you think I disrespected your project. That was not my intention--I was giving you advice to NOT register it as a '19-'20, that was all. I stand by that still; maybe because I’m the kind of guy who pulls cars out of junk yards or even ravines and puts them back together with original engines, etc.--I've done it three times already, so don't be calling me a fraud! Here's a picture of my '16 DB project, which was found in a field in many pieces.
In my town there is a '34 Plymouth restro-rod that is titled as '34 and runs on special Historical Vehicle Plates, so it's exempt from all smog and safety rules. The same running gear that’s under that car but with it's original 1990's body has to pass very stringent testing. Is that equitable?? The DMV has become very aware of this, and is trying to create rules requiring ALL cars go through the same testing, which will put those of us with original cars at a great disadvantage.
Jack had an interesting insight that most officers today wouldn’t know what to look for if the car body didn't match the title. Actually, I doubt that many of today's officers would know the difference between a 1920 car and a 1930 car, but it is an interesting idea.
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You are putting a 19-20 body on a later chassis? Then it's not a 10-20 car, it's whatever you are putting under it. Anything else is fraudulent, and disrespects those who have real 19-20 cars. I don't mean to sound hard nosed about this, but this mis-titling of modified cars is starting to hurt those of us who have authentic cars as the authorities start to look at our cars as not meeting modern safety and smog regulations--which they won't, and shouldn't be required to do! For example: comparing my '15 T touring with a fiberglassed bodied, V-8 chevy powered "T bucket" titled as a '15 T is apples and oranges, and my car should not be required to meet standards that apply to whatever is powering that rod--no matter how clever the engineering applied to the rod! Conversely, the licensing exemptions that apply to my T, should not apply to the Rod!
Drivin' in the slow lane,
David D.
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Try to clean the surface, without sanding. Clear lacquer then applied over it should bring back the color in the graining. The new surface can be carefully sanded (don't go through it to the graining!)and then coated again.
Saving the old graining is much better than putting down new graining. Yes, the original was done with rubber rollers (and hand-touching up in the corners), most "home" graining jobs are done with cheesecloth and other tricks to replicate the original. It's not a really difficult job, but it is time-consuming, and does require a bit of artistic talent.
I have "rescued" some pretty bad looking woodgrain where the clear coat was completely alligatored. Saving the original, I think, is much preferred to refinishing.
David D.
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John,
Have your friend drop the pan, and the rod and check the crank for damage. If it's OK, put in new rod bearings and go. While you've got the pan off, check the oil pump and pickup screen. You might be able to get it back together pretty easily. I have one I did that to, and it's (so far) running fine, and now has good oil pressure.
David D. (In Oroville CA)
BTW, Huss Bros. should be able to get the bearings--although my "quickie" job was about 10 years ago.
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I tried to convert a '41 Packard-Darrin to Dot 5. It had an entirely new brake system, lines, cylinders and it never worked right. Thought I had it right, but the owner kept having problems. Later he had a shop put Dot 3 in her, and the problems went away.
I did successfully convert my '46 Chev. to Dot 5, although it took a few purges with alkehal (no, not in the mechanic, in the car!), but drove it for years with no problems--it was my everyday car at the time!
David D.
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Jack,
I think you'll find that the V-12 is a Pierce Arrow engine with the heads modified for dual plugs. I'm pretty sure that's where ALF purchased the patterns. My hometown had a truck like that, still might--it was in service 10 years ago at least. When I was a kid they had a chain drive truck they used for parades only. Someone decided it was way too old and they sold it off. The nearby town still has their 1914 T fire chief's car!
Umm, somehow I "dodged" talking about Dodges! (required Dodge content!)
David D.
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Gee, that's kinda hard to respond to without more info--pics, price, etc.
David D.
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Larry,
Terry mentioned the one thing you may need to do--besides putting a straight edge on the mating surfaces to insure their flatness-- take the copper washers, heat them a dull red and quench them in water to anneal them. Now they can conform to the surfaces of the banjos and cylinders.
David D.
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Yes, Growling (metal buzzing) is bad! Indicates internal shorts.
David
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Ah, Chocolate town,
Sorry, One LITTLE detail missing! If the metal is attracted to the armature, it will buzz against it, indicating an internal short.
Did that help? Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you, I didn't get a notification of the posting.
David D.
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I see it listed for Friday. Unfortunately, I haven't figured out a way to go to the meet, even for a few days. AAUGH!!! Y'all have a great time, I was so looking forward to it.
David D.
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You put the armature in the growler "cradle" and turn on the growler. Then take a thin piece of steel (I use a hacksaw blade, and see if it is attracted to the armature (growls), turn the armature a little and check again, until you have turned it a whole revolution.
At least that was what I was taught many decades ago.
David D.
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1930,
YOU BAAAAD!!!
I needed that laugh!
JMF,
There might still be the data plate on the floorboards near the firewall. After decades out in the weather, my car still had it.
If the tops of the doors are a seperate piece, then it's pretyy early ('16 or older I think)
That list of changes in the new mag is GREAT!!!!
David D.
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It's also called "egg keep" as it keeps eggs fresh longer.
Worth a try!
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It's now relisted at $5,000. We'll see where it goes now. Wish my '16 looked half that good!
David D.
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Rodger,
It looks like it has just an "Off-On" sequence. I have it apart to fix the fiber back which has spread where the three screws hold it to the body. This looked pretty nice on ebay, but is covered with paint, and suspicously looks like it might be pitted under that. I still have to strip it. Internally it looks great. It appears the ignition switch grounds the mag for "off"--but I don't have it together to electrically test it!
With the number 14, that would fit inot the B&S series--was that used with magneto?
I'm about 98% certain it is not Ford--I don't remember ever reading about a dimming coil ON the switch itself for ford.
Any idea of the switch "handle" that's in my dash right now? I need to take a pic of it and figure out where to post it!
David D.
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This is a new thread, from the Clum key thread. A bit ago, I bought a switch off eBay--intact, and the fiber back lists "Mag" "heads" "rear" "bat" and "ground" (which is why I bought it, figured the Mag indicated it would be correct for my car). It also came with the usual dimming resisitor.
The cylinder has "14" on the front, but the key slot is a very flattened out "W" shape. I went to the local key shop, who does have Clum keys, but the usual one is not right, and I did not find anything that would fit from looking through his book. We did pick out a stamped steel key that is very close, and with a little bit of press work, I can make it fit--but what is this I bought? the headlight part is basically a straight cylinder that is tapered with two fins, and one fin has a pointed edge, so there is a "top" and "bottom" to the switch. The remains in my car are a bit differeint, the switch has two "fins" that from the side are a chevron shape--sorta like looking at a stubby wing airplane diving into the dash. And who knows if this is original, might be an early replacement. I haven't pulled the switch out to see if the guts of this switch would fit into that one.
So what do I have (boat switch?) and what is correct for my May '16 car?
Thanks All!
David D.
PS Hope to be in Bakersfield next friday!
Butler Finish
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Butler Finish is a satin nickel finish. I have replicated it on chromed parts by buffing them lightly with a wheel loaded with black polish (about 180 grit, I think). One has to go very easy with it! I think in the day it was just unpolished nickel--as the nickel they used then required polishing to be shiny--modern nickel comes out of the vat shiny.
David D.