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dlh61olds

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Posts posted by dlh61olds

  1. An old friend has this for sale. I hope someone might like

    to save this car.

    Dave Holt

    1957 88 J2 4 door sedan, 83000 orig miles, Very good condition. Runs good.

    Interior mint except staining on the headliner. Exterior very good, needs wax job.

    Repainted 1985 in orig colors all manuals included.

    1957 4 door hardtop parts car, 6 orig hubcaps and new windshield go with the deal.

    Bob Metzger, Colorado Springs 719 495 4161

    Asking $7500 for all.?auth=co&id=258906∂=1.2.2?auth=co&id=258906∂=1.2.3?auth=co&id=258906∂=1.2.4?auth=co&id=258906∂=1.2.5?auth=co&id=258906∂=1.2.6

  2. I know I will draw a lot of flak.

    Before spending 2K on an overhaul which is usually of questionable quality

    on the "slim jim" I would try this sealant.

    White Shepherd Transmission Sealer Fixes Transmission Fluid Leaks | USA SEALANTS | Stop Leak for Oil Leaks, Blown Head Gaskets, Transmission & A/C Leaks

    I have used it in both my transmissions and it works fine.

    You will hear " fix it right" from the chorus, but, in my mind fixing it right is stopping the leak without damaging anything and at the least expense.

    I also sealed a head gasket on a Ford Ranger truck with this company's Blue Devil sealer and two years and 15000 miles later it is still sealed tight.

    If you are happy with your transmissions performance why would you want to overhaul it and risk compromising that performance??

    Good luck, Dave

  3. Try setting the timing to factory specs. It sounds like you don't have enough advance at idle.

    My 1961 Starfire manual calls for 7 1/2 degrees BTC with premium fuel. At my altitude(6500) feet I am running at 10 degrees BTC. Runs great at all speeds and gets good economy @ 16 MPG on the Interstate. The car has pertronix installed.

    Good luck, Dave

  4. I am thinking an external, replaceable fiter would be a good investment.

    My tranny guy has them for $15. Why not, but, he says not to use a fuel filter

    because the filter ( microns) are too large.

    This would be easy to do if I knew which line to the oil cooler was the return line.

    This filter is so small it would be hard to see as far as judging goes.

    Besides, a couple of points off would not matter to me if the tranny(slim jim)

    is protected. There are many new cars that use an external filter.

    Any comments ???

    Thanx, Dave

  5. You might also check the jet sizes.

    Stock 1961 Starfire 394 used # 56 mains and # 80 secondarys.

    You might have to tweek the mains for your elevation

    but the stock setup seems to be fine except for running rich at

    Colorado Springs altitude. (6350 at my home).

    I am running #57 mains and get 16 MPG here. However at

    Dallas Texas altitude it would barely pull itself onto the showfield.

    Good luck, Dave

  6. Hold on a minute. How could the fuel pump fill the crankcase with fuel unless the needle and seat were stuck open , (your first problem) ?????????. I would be looking at the needle and seat for debris that can jam the needle in the open and in the closed or almost closed position, your second problem.

    I have had both happen to me so that's where I would look first.

    Good luck, Dave

  7. Here is a pic of the heater switch from the left side as it would be installed.

    Notice that the vacuum source connection is the rear most, #3.

    # 4 the top most is defroster

    # 2 the bottom most is the indirect position

    # 1 (you can't see the number behind the filter keeper)

    Is the heater (hot water) valve

    I know working upside down and backwards is a pain.

    Maybe this will help get it straightened out.

    Good luck, Dave

    post-40107-143138353167_thumb.jpg

  8. Make sure the ventilation switch is in the off position. Now, just switch the indirect and defroster hoses. See what works and what does not. I have , in the past, cut and spliced the hoses rather than try to connect directly to the switch. Just too hard to get to. Plastic nipples work fine. Also, make sure the outside air diaphragm is O. K. I test mine with a hand held vacuum pump and a short piece of hose.

    Try that and tell us what the results are. It's also possible to have the vacuum source on the wrong connector at the switch (experience talking here). I can not remember what that did

    to the system but it was goofy. Trial and error will get you where you want to be.

    Dave

  9. Re check all your connections. The vacuum source (black line) on the diagram supplys vacuum to both switches via the "T" in the diagram. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the black line to the heater switch was knocked loose while installing the switch. If you have vacuum at one diaphragm it should be available to all of them through the switches. If not, it's probably a poor connection or a wrong connection at the switches. The numbers on the rotary switches are hard to read especially in place behind the dash. The other thing to check is the lines themselves. After 48 years its possible to crack a brittle line just through normal handling.

    I hope this helps, remember, if you have vacuum to one diaphragm it should be available to all and if you have vacuum to one switch it should be available to both switches.

    Good luck, Dave

    Dave

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