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dlh61olds

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Posts posted by dlh61olds

  1. Make sure the leads are sound and have good connections.

     

    The magnets must be almost touching the pickup when the drive shaft is turning.

    This makes for a very touchy adjustment, the pickup will tear the magnets off if contact is made

    (magnets sticking to floor is a good example).

     

    Keep trying, you will get it right eventually barring some other problem.

     

    Make sure the pickup is to the side of the driveshaft because there is some movement up and down as  the rear suspension flexes. .

     

    Good luck, Dave

  2. Have been shopping for something besides cork/rubber oil pan gaskets and came up with site.

    Bob Marx is a knowledgeable guy and helped me find what I wanted.

    He is a distributer for "Best Gaskets" and carries many other gaskets.

     

    Here is the link to his website, checkout his online catalog.

     

    Dave

     

    www.marxparts.com

  3. Have been shopping for something besides cork/rubber oil pan gaskets and came up with site.

    Bob Marx is a knowledgeable guy and helped me find what I wanted.

    He is a distributer for "Best Gaskets" and carries many other gaskets.

     

    Here is the link to his website, checkout his online catalog.

     

    Dave

     

    http://www.marxparts.com/index.htm

  4. Most cars of that vintage called for 30 W in summer and 20W in winter.

     

    I have two 1961 Oldsmobiles and use Valvoline 30W racing oil in both year round.

     

    My cars see very little action in the winter so that suits me fine.

     

    This oil carries a significant amount of zinc (ZDDP) which is good for the camshaft and lifters.

     

    Here is the url for amazon but you can get it at most auto parts stores.

     

    I buy mine at O Reillys.

     

    Good luck, Dave.

    http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV223-6PK-VR1-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FOFA/ref=sr_1_3/187-1955409-2597361?ie=UTF8&qid=1450283012&sr=8-3&keywords=valvoline+racing+oil

  5. The thing that surprised me most was that 3 out of the four I checked had the same "defective" terminal end . I can only guess that it was a manufacturing defect in the harness.

    There are probably a lot of cars out there with the same defect still in operation. I think the convertible top switch is most likely tied to the same terminal but I cannot find it on my wiring diagram.

    Dave

  6. Restoring a 62 olds starfire convertible. Have all the electrical working, but after running the car for a bit, when I go to put the top back up, the motor will stop with the top about 1/4 of the way up and then won't go up or down at all. At the same time this happens the power windows also will not go up or down at all. So far, if I wait a bit after turning the car off, then they will both work again. Anyone have any tips to what I may have hooked up wrong, or ideas of what to look for? Thanks

    I want to re-visit this subject , I believe I have found the culprit involved in many problems.

    I recently had some of the same problems. Windows would quit working and the heater fan would quit. If I let it sit awhile everything would work again for a short time. Going to the wiring diagram for my 1961 Starfire I found the accessory lead at the ignition switch supplies power to the following: Cigar lighter-Air Conditioner-Heater Fan-Electric Antenna and Electric Windows.

    I found the green accessory lead was burned at the connector on the IGNITION SWITCH !!! I went to my parts source and looked at four switches in four different cars before I found one that was not burned. They all had the same connector that looks as though it was not correct from the factory. The green lead (acc) looks as if it has the spring or pressure part of the fitting missing. Looks like it was never there . Top lead in the picture is correct, bottom is the bad fitting. The result is a loose connection that seems to work until it heats up and then opens. Let it cool awhile and it works again. The fuses never blow so its hard to find this goofy problem.

    I replaced the plastic fitting and the accessory lead(green) with the correct end and all is well.

    Look at the pics. Three out of the four switches I looked at had the same burned lead. Makes me wonder how many good cars were junked because of this problem.

    Just thought sharing this info might help someone having any of the problems mentioned.

    I'd like to hear from anyone that finds they have the same burned switch.

    Dave

    post-40107-14314286329_thumb.jpg

    post-40107-143142863322_thumb.jpg

  7. Your 1963 Dynamic 88 should have the 394CI engine. There is no need to "relieve " back pressure, the standard stock exhaust system is more than adequate. The best thing you can do to learn about your car is to buy a service manual and read it. You can probably find one on e bay.

    Good luck with your car, Dave

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