Willhelm Reichert
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Posts posted by Willhelm Reichert
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My dentist disappeared after working on my teeth today. I threatened to use a 5 lb. hammer on his TC if he hurt me.
The hanging tonque is what I looked like when I left.
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Congrats on the car and doing the right thing asking about experienced mechanics. Someone with a rare TIII Dodge Spirit in St. Louis is suffering great financal loss right now because he had all the expertise in the world 50 miles away and didn't use the right shop. (Not me) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> The machine shop has wasted $5,000 of his money and the engine is a mess and the 16 valve head may not be salvageable.
If you decide to cut your losses <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I can come down with a trunk load of parts and reimburse you and drive it home. (My home) Just joking.
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That is normal. The engine pumps more oil when it goes faster. Make sure the oil warning light goes on before you start it. The engines have low pressure at idle. The pressure is higher when cold and goes down when the engine warms up and the oil thins down a little.
I think somebody is used to idiot lights and relearning the use of gauges?? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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I'm redoing the originals and adding the air bolsters for the leg and lumbar support.
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If this is an 8 valve head and the mechanic didn't know about the hairline crack at the valves being normal, make sure he knows to use liquid teflon to seal the manifold studs. They go thourgh to the water jacket.
Post a good pic of the cracks here.
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I'm speechless...........almost. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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If it is the 8 valve automatic, they are a dime a dozen. There are currently 3 for sale on Turbododge.com for $75 plus shipping. If it's the 16 valve, there are some pros on welding them. Someone in Germany is shipping his 16 valve to the US to have it done right.
I'm sending one of my 8 valve heads to Ohio for a custom reworking with oversize exhaust valves. 8 new stainless steel valves. They are pretty. Too bad I can't show them off once they are in the car. A good rebuild of the 8 valve head ran me $350 last year by a shop that knows the heads. Triple valve grind, new guides and seals, resurfacing, pressure test. The one that's going to Ohio is going to cost $950 with all the mods possible. It should be near the flow of the stock 16 valve. If you overheated the engine, you also need new bearings on the bottom end.
One note on the 8 valve head. The cracking between the valves is problably just surface cracking and doesn't matter. Be sure to use the MOPAR xxx006 head gasket for a replacement. It is only listed the Mopar catalog. Not the dealer computer database.
Add another ouch for the mechanic's labor costs. I do mine myself after 19 years of driving the Chrysler turbos.
Did I mention that my Christmas present this year is a toaster from Germany that brands the toast with the Mopar Ram's head:::??? I'm serious!!!! My wife just about killed me when I told her what she was giving me.
If your wife doesn't read this, tell her reworking the head is going to cost the 950 plus labor. Then just act surprised when the front tires smoke when you floor it. It's worth it. Tell her she will appreciate the increased value of the car when you die. As long as she doesn't help you along.
Heck, the cpi index went up to $11xxx this year on the TC. It was $4,200 last year. The should ease your pain somewhat.
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Hemi mentioned that the halfshaft is larger diameter and has a different radial bearing. NOS. You can have your drivshafts rebuilt locally. St. Louis is $80 for the axle rebuild. The half shaft, I can probably find the bearing for you. I would need the axle diameter where the bearing is pressed on.Actually the inner and outer diameter of the bearing. I found one for the 8 valves that is for aircraft. Works great.
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http://www.caswellplating.com/
Actually has the directions and materials to apply real plating on their site.
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runswithscissors Blaine Minnesota sounds like a good place. Here is the link for the supplies
http://www.caswellplating.com/
Should be a nice hobby. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
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That center console has to be BETTER than new if you did it right. I hav4e a link about diy plating but never checked on the plastic. I'll dig it up and you can do it for us.
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???????????The only way I can think of them all being connected is ???The feed to the fuse box from the ignition switch??? I run with the hardtop on so I don't know if the tonneau release and pull down only operate with the ignition on. The switches do go bad. I think the electrical part is down the steering column and accessible. The key just moves a rod that activates the switch. the headlight switch is only connected for the radio illumination as already mentioned. So playing with that is coincidence. You might get the same results playing with the wiper switch.
(I cojldn't resist that.) Try gently moving the key back and forth to simulate the problem.Potholes?????????????? I went through there a couple years ago with a trailer. The trailer averaged 12" altitude going down the toll road with new pavement. Do as in the Phillipines. If the plowed field looks better, use it.
With Lake Michigan there, you need to buy my 24'Venture/McGregor sailboat.
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Nope you have to upgrade with the Quaife or OBX. they are torque biasing differentials? the fwd doesn't like the normal type used for rwd. Alabama Man makes the friction type for about 250 The quaife is 450 plus $100 for an adapter for the turbo trans. They are really for the Mopar SRT line.I don't know what kind of dif the 284 has. It might not even be possible. Hemi would have that answer.
It sounds like you need to get the front end checked.
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Click on the link above. He has photos there. He is just going full time on this. He has been at it for years and really does remembers Hemi's write ups in magazines.
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Well I decided on a reworked head by http://www.powrehaus.com/
Still trying to beat Hemi's 33 mpg. This guy's nickname is MPG Mike!!!!!
He also remembers reading Hemi's articles back when he was in grade school.
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url of Performance specialties???
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I'm 100% German and so is Getrag. I know the German piano factories. They don't care if you buy the merchandise, as long as it's the best. Yes it wold be a nightmare in the worst German sense probably.
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Now you did it. I'm stupid, stubborn and crazy (Looneytuner on td and tm.com). You want to ship me the parts???
I have restored reproducing grand pianos and 150 year old grands with no documentation. For fun.
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I believe it's a just a mopar switch. It's not a common problem but quite a few Turbododge owners have had the problem. Time to hit the stylish Junkyards for a Chrysler of similar year. While you're there pick up some of the gas levers for other members. Hint you can break parts on junk cars to save time. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Also pick up some of the switches for the console seat controls. They are on the door side of the front seat. The contacts inside are what get bent out of shape in the TC.
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There is a possibilty of rebuilding these if enough are interested. It would not be cheap since the tools were trashed by Getrag and there are no service manuals.
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Twin cam I missed your post till now. His Neon blew the headgasket the same day.Both our cars got towed by the same company. He was trying to figure out wether to replace the gasket or just drop a spare race engine in. He still has a fleet of imsa cars and lots of neat parts. The TD's was/is his passion. Unfortunately or not the "pay the bills job" has had him working 70 hours per week for quite a few years.
Kinda cool when you can call and have the parts dropped off. I have to sell Hemi on the advantages of Mo. now. Then I would REALLY be in TD heaven.
Hey Hemi, you can borrow my new 25' sailboat.....
Lynn Travers that did the NADA advisor bit for TD's also lives here.
BTW the CPI (cars of particular interest) index for the TC is $11,000 for 06 and plus 10% for the 16 valve. I think that's an insult to the Masi head cars.
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it turns out Bill Lambros of the LRE fame blew his headgasket yesterday also. It's kinda cool having 5,000 sq ft of spare parts in the neighborhood. Now I have to get Hemi to move..
Hemi, I'll sell you a lot and you can walk to work.
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do youj know about the http://www.backesfamily.com/TCProjects/ ??
There is a step by step on how to do it for repairng the switch mount. I have learned since then, if the rocker/joystick switch doesn't work, you can grab a similar switch(left side of driver seat) from the late 80 chryslers and switch the brass contacts. There is ONE contact that is different from the other 3. Make sure you replace one at a time so they don't get mixed up.
the switches are the same except the prongs are smaller on one, so you have to open them up.
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Now I have an excuse to upgrade the head <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
(I cojldn't resist that.) Try gently moving the key back and forth to simulate the problem.
His TC was gone when I left
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
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I'm safe. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I'm just the Looneytuner. The dentist and I go back many years. Sorry for your trauma over yesterday. I'm left thinking what or why would this happen. Just like everyone else. Living near the St. Louis airport, I think how wonderful it is to know the planes are ours and not carrying bombs.
I didn't hear about yesterday till last night.
PS You should meet the dentist!!!;0