Willhelm Reichert
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Posts posted by Willhelm Reichert
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print out the engine codes for him on minimopar. Better yet take him the service manual, and email the links to turbododge.com and turbomopar.com. It's just a matter of logical troubleshooting and good luck.
I don't think these things ever have vapor lock with fool injection.
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Cliff Ramsdell in Ct. is the pro for 413's that can handle extra hp.
He starts at $600 and goes up depending on what you want. (exra clutchpacks, differentials, and so on.) It costs about $100 to ship in a Rubbermaid container. He can give you all the straight info. I think I listed his site on the Yahoo group under links
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89 auto trans levels I need better glasses or a better brain. I'm afraid it's the latter.
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Which automatic!
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The REAL qestion IS..................................Do THEY want somebody nicknamed fat tony!!!!
Great group for help. I haven't been able to go to a meet yet but the newsletter is great to read, and the tips are worth the price of gold.
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Do the 2.4 dohc 16 valve conversion on the 2.2. Parts are plentiful and it's not that hard. The Stratus head is plentiful and cheap.
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now it's time to go junkyarding to look for a car with the same parts. Preferably because it got hit hard. spare parts are great when they cost $50 instead of 320+labor.
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And the blackout of 2006 begins...........
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C'mon we won't tell any of the TD guys and they never look over here
Alan
Don't bet on that. AKA the Looneytuner TC #1295 SL # 268
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Payment being resent. That is some new aggravation with paypal.
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Why did you snip the wire?!?!?!?!
If you use the kit PROPERLY it works great.
The right kit has an alcohol swab and sealed glue. I use a razor blade first to get rid of the original glue. And CLEAN with windex after the razor.
and read the directions on the kit.
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Mount to the inside of the rocker panel. It looks like something left over from the Booklyn Bridge.
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I still think the moisture got in something. There are plenty of those engines on the street. A loarge dealer should be able to pretty well guess over the phone what is wrong. I couldn't get any answers for you since my connections are all four cylinder people.Maybe allpar.com can help.
You surely are not the first person to have this happen. Just leaving it out with the hood up facing south in Texas should get rid of the moisture. They warn not to power clean the engine unless you have free tow service. You accidently did this. The affected wiring is under the hood. Good luck. Cook it for a week in the sun.
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If the clutch is engaging and disengaging properly, try pulling up on the clutch pedal. There is a built in adjust that operates that way. If it's whirring when the pedal is released, it's probably just the throwout bearing not having any force on it. It should not be left that way. That's what the pedal adjustment takes care of. Let us know if that works. The clutches seem to be more picky on the 16 valve engines in the mopar cars
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That is probably what I will do soon. I don't care for ANY abs system. Her is the link mentioned.
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Explain what happened better. If the brake went all the way to the floor, it could just be a bad line. If the brakes locked up, it could be grease on the rotor.
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Needless to say don't drive it till Hemi or Larry check in. You can get grease on the rotors and pads that will turn to "contact cement". I had it happen yearws ago and went off the side of the road following the rear of the car where the locked brake was. The only way this can happen on our cars is if the?????????? I'm guessing you had driven for a while? It takes the grease a while to cook to the right temp. Could be with our Teves brakes also.
Just be glad you don't have variable ratio steering as in the Mercedes like Pricess Diana. I saw one of these cars with the front wheels locked at 45 degrees at 60 mph. Mercedes will prove it is not possible, but I saw it. The driver could not believe he was still alive when he stopped. he did a complete 360* turn on 5 lanes of interstate in traffic and was only hit once.
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I like the way the red car looks, almost Tuner-Esque. I've thought about getting a TC Shell, and going all Ricer with it. Drop the Neon Turbo drive train in it, and have some fun! Probably never happen, but fun to think about.
You don't have to switch engines. If you have the money.....LOTS....SMP Performance had the 16 vavle puttin out about 900 hp this year. About 180 mph at 9,300 rpm. Oh, that's just in a quarter mile. i don't think the TC body would be too stable at those speeds though.
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turbos uknleashed is the retailer for the Dawes now.
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=57
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Good advice. One easier idea instead of this part.."the hanger brackets on the TC will have to be cut off the old exhaust system and welded to the new since they aren't available anymore."
Is to just get a rod the same diameter at the hardware store and take it with you. It was easier for me than cutting the old ones off and rewelding. The lip on the end isn't necessary. The engine controls forward backward movement of the exhaust. And as my son proved, you can still remove the exhaust from the hangars by pushing cobblestones with the tailpipe when in reverse.
As far as 300 hp, start shopping for an egt(exhaust gas temp), fuel pressure, air fuel mixture, and boost gauge. You will be on the ragged edge of melting any pistons cast or forged.
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Speaking of which,,,,how many knew that the original yacht America wound up the the Confederate navy as the Camilla???
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Don't drink. Did my share in the Navy though. I'm just weird? AKA the Looneytuner on TD and TM
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I have a FLEET of six Chrysler turbo cars. I was also in the NAVY. I was on the FLAG SHIP in the Gulf of Tonkin. I was the VOICE of Alpha Whiskey (the admiral's flag ship) on the radio nets.
The only part I don't like is deciding which type of ship each car is. The admiral's and captain's yachts were called barges. I don't think that befits a TC. How about a cruiser. They are sleek and fast and deadly? They are often the flag ship in small task forces.
Alas, my once proud ship the CVA 66 USS America is now but a fish reef off the Carolinas. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Motor stopped
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted
Going at it without a brain is hopeless. He needs to do 2 test first. Is there spark, and is there fuel. That cuts the possibilities in half. No spark and no fuel means the asd (automatic shutdown relay) circuit. This loops you back to is the asd bad or is the computer getting a failed circuit response (Injector circuit or hep circuit)on checking the components. And so on for 20 pages.
I'm resurrecting a car that sat for 7 years. So far I have repaired wiring to the fuel pump(mouse ate it). Replaced the hep and ignition parts. Lm was fried from lightening strike. Now the car fires with a deep woomp sound but won't run. Off to the timing belt replacment. Also had to replace two connectors for the J1 J2 circuit that were corroded through. Then don't forget the Z1 circuit.
If he knows the mopar turbo engine, no problem. If he doesn't.........................