ogster

I agree with Dave. The spring is usually removed/installed with the weight of the vehicle on the frame. The spring housing and control arms are not designed to accomotate any type of spring compressor. You are experimenting no matter which type you use, does anyone have any personal experience here? You could secure the frame or otherwise weight it down to allow spring comperssion or use some type of clamp to compress the lower A-arm with the spring installed. Careful though, compressed springs are dangerous things!!!

I can't really imagine why you would want to. Deviating from original will do nothing but create problem for you and successive owners of the car down the road. Unless you are building a totally custom car and have performance issues I would stay with stock. the carb linkage will have to re-engineered, the mounting, fuel line, etc. And, the stock air cleaner won't fit. I would rebuild or replace the original Rodchester 4GC. Just my two cents

Hi, Just my two cents. The hesitation/back-firng is an indication the the engine is starving for fuel. You suspect the fuel pump (a definite possibility) also verify that the accelerator pump is installed and functioning properly.Ray

If (as you say) you charged the purchase on your credit card you do have recourse. Simply contact your bank or CC company and dispute the charge. They will charge back the fraudulent charge and you pay nothing. If you used a debit card it will be a bit more of a challenge (now it's your money) but still doable.

Go to www.fusick.com and download thier catalog for your car. They have the most comprehensive parts offering that I have come across. Get your wallet out though! Ray

Lead fuel additive was one of the greatest hoaxes ever pulled on the American public. Initially lead was added to gasoline to up the octane and was also touted as an upper engine lubricant. Hooey!!! What lead did was poison the environment(think about it) and cause the automobile engine to wear out sooner(neccessitating frequent replacement). The function of oil is to create a barrier between metal parts to reduce wear. Let's add metal to the fuel to lubricate the metal engine parts(yeah, right)! By example, modern vehicles do not use lead and can run easily to 200K miles without major repairs, the spark plugs last longer and the oil is changed less often(another ecological and economic benefit). Cars of yore ran 100K(maybe), they needed to be tuned every 6,000 miles or so and a 3,000 mile oil change was a ritual. So my advice is to keep lead additives out of your tank and run a high octane fuel if you need to. Ray

I did, thanks Steve!! Give me a call or email me at "ogster@starband.net" when you are ready for me to have it picked up. Ray

Hi, The 324, 371 up to the 394 use the same block, and yes, the intake manifolds are interchangeable and the bolt patterns will line up. But, you may encounter other problems and God knows whay you would want to. Ray

Steve, I'll call you this week-end to discuss this further, but, maybe you can tell me a little more about it. What do you consider to be a short block? Any idea how many miles were on it? What is the cylinder taper? Do you have any plan on how to ship. pallet, etc.? Ray

I actually have the GM shop manual for the '56 Olds. I anslo have one for the '67 Ods Cutlass. Not Chilton but the real McCoy. Ray

Very Kewl indeed. I will get back with you in the AM ( after I can read the #)

Hi, Well do you still have it? I seem to be collecting this [@!#!$]. Ray

Hopefully you are not in too big of a hurry and this information reaches you in time to do some good. My book says: (It's called a safety pad, by the way) "The safety pad trim is cemented to the instrument panel at the front and rear edge. The cemented areas are covered by the windshield garnish molding. To remove the pad and trim, it is necessary to remove the windshield garnish molding, radio, speaker grill, and instrument panel molding." Sorry, but that is what it says. Good luck!

I am check my 1956 Olds shop manual and I could use a more accurate description of the holes. Are they on the side of the block or the front. I inches where are they located?

Thanks a heap!! I think this is the way to go, post war machines fetch $59 for a rebuild where fusick was wanting $89 to replace it and said there were two styles and would have to see mine to determine which I needed. And, what are the chances that I'd get mine back? Ray

Thanks for your help. I have already had the unit apart and regreased it maybe 5 - 7 years ago. Now, the (leather?) seal around the wiper is cracked and worn beyond repair and I am basically ready for a "new" one. I can't believe that Schucks doesn't have these! Ray

I need a wiper motor for a '56 Olds. If not the whole motor, I at least need a new wiper for same. Any leads or referals? Ray

My needs are simple and few. I just need a vacuum wiper motor(that works). Email me with any comments, availabilty and price. "ogster@starband.net" Thanks, Ray

My curiosity is piqued! What are the 10 worst cars? Do I have one?

Spencer, I am in Rogue River. That is just east of Grants Pass on I-5 towards Medford in Southwest Oregon. Shipping is not a problem for me. I listed the hood set on eBay last night with more and different pictures than the one provided here. Have a look, it is item number: 2493443684 As for price, I haven't got a clue as to what these are worth. I started the bidding at $100, but, I may be totally out of line. They might be worth $50 or $500. I guess market forces will prevail. Ray

Whew, It sound like quite a project you have taken on! I have never tried anything where I don't get a complete car. Good luck. Lemme know if you want me to hang on to the hood for you. I have attached the picture to this reply (I think). Ray

I have a hood set to fit a 1934 Chevy. If I wanted to sell these do they have any value? What should I ask and where would I list them? For those of you that might be interested, I have listed the hoods on eBay. Item number: 2493443684 Have a look!

Hi, An alternator is really simple. As long as you are using one with an intenal regulator then all you need is supply a battery connection to the alternator. Yes, all the generator stuff can be removed. The dash light can be made to work, but that is much more complicated. Good luck, Ray

Hi, I have a hood (both sides) for a '34 chevy. Do you need anything like that? Ray

Hey, You guys are good! 1934 Chevy it is!!! Thanks, Ray