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Pierce66

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About Pierce66

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  • Birthday 03/27/1940
  1. I agree - of course it dosnt make any sense to be historically accurate in the preservation / restoration of old cars. Why stop at the finishes ? Why not use modern materials in the chassis, engine, transmission, electrical systems ? C'mon...be serious...within the context of the AACA and the CCCA, we are supposed to be interested in ACCURATE history and restorations. Many of us, myself included, are ALSO hot rodders and customizers, taking advantage of so much of what modern technology has blessed us with. But...that is not what we do HERE as auto HISTORY buffs! I DISagree with you as to
  2. For Skyking: Of COURSE you are correct- lacquer IS a "thing of the past". Which is precisely why it should be used on cars of the past ! At the risk of repeating myself, of COURSE the modern two part paints, "topped" with a "clear coat", are far more durable and glossy than the finishing materials of the 50's and earlier. That is the POINT ! They are SO much "better" than the historically correct finishes, they are OBVIOUS even to the un-trained eye. Even the untrained eye will notice the difference in the way light reacts to a correct laquer or "synthetic enamel" paint job, than a modern
  3. Here's something to think about. Air conditioner blowers, if they are going to be large enough to push enough air fast enough to handle the incredible heat loads of cars of earlier eras, (especially if they are of darker, as in "radiation absorbing" colors), are going to take a LOT of electrical power. The largest 6 volt generators you normally find in typical production cars produced around 32 amps. That would be the same electrical power as a 12 volt system prodcing 16 amps. Ever seen a 16 amp. 12 volt system (either generator OR alternator...!) See my point ? The solution ? Those s
  4. For B.H: Well-written post - for once, we are in COMPLETE agreement ! Dog Spot !
  5. For Packard V-8: Your information is correct as to the era of generator you are familiar with. Suggest you review maintainence manuals from the era this fellow's car is from. Dog Spot
  6. Will be interesting to see what kind of power you get out of that thing now, what with BOTH your armature and field coils being re-wound. Should be MUCH more durabile with modern insulation; hopefully, the voltage wont be TOO high. If the voltage is much above 7.8, I would suggest you have them re-wire it to take a modern (meaning post 1935) full VOLTAGE AND AMPERAGE regulation. If it is LESS than about 7.8 volts, only thing left for you to do is determine how much CURRENT (meaning AMPERAGE) you want, that is both consistent with your driving habits (obviously, for night driving you'd want
  7. What can you tell us about what was done to your generator ? Were the field coils re-wound ? Armature re-wound ? Modern materials will be MUCH better able to handle higher temperatures, meaning you can run with a higher charging rate than originally contemplated. Any good-sized electronics store should carry an inexpensive voltmeter. You already have an ammeter built into your car, which may or not be EXACTLY accurate - but dosnt matter. To accurately monitor the "health" of your generator, you need to know the VOLTAGE your generator is putting into the system. Assuming a given amperage,
  8. Interesting ! You SURE this is a legit. Packard item ? I dont ever recall seeing ANYTHING like that. Bear in mind there was a lot of "funny stuff" on cars that makes no sense today. For example, how many of you have seen an extra spark plug on an INTAKE manifold. That was a common thing on many cars of that era ( Packard called its version the "Fuelizer"). It was because the Ried Vapor Pressure of the fuel was so low....manufacturers had all kinds of wierd ways of getting a car started on a cold day. One way..was to hit the fuel/air mixture with an extra "charge" as it went thru the inta
  9. For BH and his "followers": I really am sorry you and some of your friends feel so passionately about those issues about Packards that you cant stand to see discussed. Again, I think B.H. has performed a valuable service for those people by publisizing this "ignore" feature. So USE it ! Don't you guys realize, that the louder you make your accusations that I would engage in inappropriate speech, "bashing", vulgarity, etc, the more people are going to become curious and read my posts ? If you dont want conflicting ideas discussed, STOP MENTIONING them and people who provide them! The "wha
  10. Hey Chuck - about that government clerk who wanted to call your classic a "Ford"....you dont suppose...she was on to something....! (ha..couldn't resist that...!) Seriously, Chuck, I hope you dont think your great state has a monopoly on government employees who have limited vision when it comes to dealing with old vehicles...! When I brought my '36 American La France V-12 into California for the first time, the DMV clerk refused to accept the paper-work - let me explain something to our younger readers - the idea of a many-digit "Vehicle Identification Number" on a plate affixed to the top of
  11. I think B.H.'s discovery that there is a mechanims for him and others in his group to IGNORE ideas he dosnt like to hear, is an excellant solution to his problem. Obviously, his attempt to silence those who disagree with him, has failed. His repeated claims of "bashing" and other inappropriate chat-room behavior have only encouraged others to read the so called "offending" posts, to find the only "offense" is disagreeing with BH ! So - B.H. finally did come up with the best solution for all of us. Those who want to silence information they disagree with, now have a way to do it, without int
  12. Hmm...a car whose name rhymes with "FORD"....... Spot
  13. Bill P - Regarding your comment on connecting rod bearings - you might be interested to know that a much wider variety of bearing materials than you indicated, is available for 'insert' type rod bearings, depending on the application. As you may know, Federal Mogul and Packard pioneered the "copper-lead" concept, and this has worked out so well down thru the years, it is still the first choice for long life/high load applications. Many manufacturers have offered aluminum and even silver combinations. I have confidence in Shawn - he has been around old cars long enough to know that each e
  14. Installing an over-drive is not a major problem. You have plenty of space to do it. I recommend you build a sub-frame for the overdrive, then RUBBER MOUNT the sub frame. Bolting the over-drive rigidly to a metal frame WILL transfer gear noise, and that can be an annoyance. Yours is a fairly heavy car, with a motor that is not all that powerful. The "stock" final drive ratio would be just right for modest city driving. With a high speed rear end, you might find the car a bit sluggish. Good luck ! Dog Spot
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