kenmatthews

I'm installing a newly rebuilt carb and the old carb has a stripped nozzle fitting which receives tube from fuel pump (located on rear of carb facing firewall). It threads into the rear and seems to accept (i think) a 5/8in wrench. I'll head over to the hardware store later on but thought I'd post here and see what folks say.

Oh I forgot to mention...this is NOT a motor mount issue. Motor mounts are fine.

Here's an update. Tranny fluid seems to fly out if I really rev the engine which is necessary since accelerator pump fails on me. I know right away of course because fluid drips onto hot exhaust pipe and begins burning off...I've now grown accustomed to the smell and recognize it immediately. I may try to rig something on the outer shaft to keep dipstick fastened in place although that shouldn't be necessary.

You know Willie, I didn't think so. But again (as you know from my other posts), these clowns really did a number on me. Thank God they at least knew to put block back in the engine compartment and not somewheres else like the trunk!! Well it turns out that on the psgr side, there is a nick bending outwards about 1/8in. I'd like to knock it in but don't have body tools. What sort of hammer should I use for something like that? BTW, the rubber spacers (has mitered face) evenly spaced along the length of each fender are there. It's just REALLY tight on the driver side. I'll put that on my wknd TO-DO list.

Mechanics removed my hood when pulling the engine. So now that hood is back on, it continuously pops up as I'm driving. I bought a can of lithium grease and greased all joints including the front latch. i also began studying the shop manual but it focuses more on front-to-rear alignment adjustment and removal. My issues is side-to-side. The driver side seems to have about 3/16 in. more space between fender than passenger side. What gives? I have a repro manual so the photocopying doesn't do justice to diagram.

Yeah JMC...right on the money! They responded and sell a conversion kit. Thanks for the lead, now I have a mini task for the upcoming wknd. Cheers. KEN

I'm looking to replace manual w/ an electric choke for my carb (Carter 4bbl). Who would offer an electric choke that I could install? Thanks...

Ah yes, important information. 4-bbl Carter carb. from a 55 Super (322)

I'm selling three used (good condition) motor mounts that were replaced when I rebuild the motor. Rubber makes good seal on rear mount and all threads are good. No rust, good solid welds throughout. Rubber boot in good condition, no tears or cracks. You can view the posting here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7920682074 Thanks!

Does anyone know where I can find linkage to connect throttle linkage to accelerator pump linkage? Mine bends when I give it a strong foot to the floor (sometimes necessary to get out on the hwy). I'm also looking for the piece which pushes the acc. pump downwards, this is the part that is hidden by a cap on front of carb. Some genius decided to jerry-rig it out of a piece of coathanger. Actually not a bad idea for temporary fix but it creates too much play and no acceleration occurs until pedal is pressed about 1/4 way down. I checked my latest CARS catalog but didn't see anything. Is Buick Specialists (aka BUICK WORLD) in Kent, WA still in business? Thanks!

Dani, I have a 55 Super and the manual states same size (7.6in. x 15in.). For radial tires, that would be a 235/75-15 if you want to stick with the original wheel setup. Check out www.coker.com if you want to stay vintage but expect to pay about $165/ea.

Actually Guy, it has all new motor mounts when I rebuilt the engine. The fluid just seems to gush out on its own and I don't notice any torquing of the engine out of place. I'll keep an eye on it to see if a bit more driving doesn't cure it. Then I'll know it was just too much fluid poured in.

Jaybird, Actually the motor isn't shaking bad at all, I have it tuned to 5 deg. TDC and runs quite smooth. The accelerator however is a different issue (ugh...!!). As I accelerated the engine by moving the throttle linkage, I noticed that quite a bit of tranny fluid jumped out of the dipstick tube. To confirm another suggestion, the tube securely fastened to proper location so nothing is looose. My only thought is that maybe there's too much fluid in there and it's hopping out the only way it can...?

Hey Bob! Boy are you right! I crawled under the small space and tried to pull out the original vacuum wiper button. For some reason, I see wires hooked up...hmm. On a vacuum operating system, interesting. Bob, what year switch did you obtain to do that? I'd like to do the same but the setup of my original switch is a full swinging twist instead of clicking into place like the new switch.

Brian, I don't have material to help you but what an interesting idea. You've just given me an idea for side signal lights on my 55 super.

Oh wow, I didn't realize that BUick offered it for so many yrs. Was this an option where you could choose dash switch vs. pedal switch? I never truly found where vacuum is being used to engage the switch nor did I find a switch. All I see is that the accelerator linkage arm connects up to the carb and there are 2 wires on the back of the carb. However, my shop manual states an actual ball in a socket which the vacuum activates and pushes into position to make the contact. Still in search of that mechanism...

I'd like to know a little history regarding when and why Buick decided on having ignition switch engaged by the accelerator pedal. I have a 55 Super with this feature and I understand it was only offered for few yrs. I have a few friends w. 56 and they don't have that setup. I'm also interested in removing contacts from carb and installing a heavy-duty push button switch under the dash. I'm assuming this is possible and I have my eyes on a switch at Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product...iProductID=3192 This seems like a pretty straight-forward install by simply bringing those 2 carb connections indoors and hide under the dash.

JAYBIRD/WILLIE, Both good posts. I'll check next time I fire up the engine if the pipe is loose. If so, will be an obvious fix. Someone else pulled the engine for the rebuild so I'm going through everything and the dipstick is only one of my action items. I also have to deal with the hood constantly popping up where they improperly installed it. There's more gap on one side than the other. I forgot to mention that the dipstick is really two parts: the stick itself plus the the cap which has come loose and flops around up near the curled top. Of course I could buy a new dipstick, but that's the easy way out. I'll check the pipe next time and check in with you. Things are getting crossed off my list...slowly. KEN

Ok so I'm a dipstick...hehehe. Recently I noticed my tranny dipstick will come out of its place resulting in fluid flying out the chute and landing (& burning) on the exhaust manifold. I've tried clamping together with a pair of plyers to tighten the fit but still will pop up. My next step is to find a weasher and super glue it in place to grab the chute. Any bright ideas out there?

Hi BJR, Look about 2 posts up in this thread. I purchased from Newport Engineering. They sell a bolt-on model that works specifically for my model. Their list is pretty extensive and you can find out what fits your Buick on their website.

Jim, I just installed an electric wiper motor this wknd in my 55 Super. Piece of cake since the drive receives the motor and you bolt down 2 screws and you're done with the vacuum hoses. The whole process took about an hour's worth of work. Just make sure to run the positive wire through at least a 10A fuse. Good luck to ya. KEN

Jim, Check out Newport ENgineering at www.newportwipers.com as I just bought an electric motor for my 55 Super. Cost was $180. There is also a delay intermittent switch you can buy separately if interested. Good luck.

Whew...well that's a relief. Another bit of info to go along with this is I get a response from the engine at higher RPMs, usually beyond about 45-50mph. Engine will hum at me and I can feel vibration through the steering wheel. This is not to be confused with a PS issue. There are no PS leaks, and I only get the noise when I accelerate or have foot constantly on the accelerator. Does not happen at idle or when coasting. Two things come to mind. Either the engine has not been broken in yet at the high speeds or there is no coolant running through the manifolds/block. I ran the engine with radiator cap off and didn't see the coolant moving at all. Will it only start flowing once the engine is warmed up or should it flow right away?

ENGINE: 322 V8 (rebuilt) I just had my engine rebuilt and it runs pretty good now that I have adjusted hte carb, but I notice a reading of high oil pressure when driving. If idle or just starting up, the pressure is somewhere between just below "N" to normal. BUt as soon as I accelerate, the needle heads over to H. What would this be an indication of, assuming the gauge works properly? KEN

Well here's the result. - fuel pump port closest to radiator was left unplugged - tube coming out of front intake manifold went nowhere and was plugged off - no connections to vacuum wiper motor I took the plug from there and capped off the open port on fuel pump and started her up. Ran a little rough so I started adjusting the carb (idle screws) and adjusted the throttle rod and VOILA! Much better. ...until it started overheating...hehehehe. The fools had not reassembled the coilwinding spring on the butterfly valve so of course I had the left side smoking like a chimney. WILLY, I'm ordering an electronic wiper motor to install. May have some vacuum/connection questions for you regarding intake/fuel pump and Mason jar. That's all for now...