Fox W.
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Posts posted by Fox W.
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For me, the trick was to use 12337901 as Ronnie suggested above. I found a bag of 9 on Ebay for $13. These fit much better, they have one side that is flatter. I have no leaks.
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I've found various parts (PS cooler, fnt sway bar, etc.) on my 89 that are typically on 88s, I believe my car was assembled in November 1988, and so it may be the 88 design. I'm trying a few other parts I've found and will report back if any work better.
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On 12/11/2010 at 3:29 PM, Don Hudd said:
also wonfering if anyone knows the part # for the o rings, I have fel-rp 35608 for neck and fel-pro 35126 for the seal. the new seal does not seam to fit, too small.
Thanks
I'm having this same problem. I got the recommended original stat and gasket via Reatta owner store and is it those same parts... the fit is impossible, the gasket causes the tube to cock to one side. It seems the gasket should be different (more flat) on one side, and/or the t-stat should have a recess.
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9 hours ago, DAVES89 said:
Wow!
Are there any houses up for sale in your neighborhood? I would like you to be a neighbor and do work like that on the Black or the 'vert [Red is done] for me.
How about pics when everything is back together?
Thanks Dave! There have been a number of houses for sale on my street actually.
It would be nice to have help for sure.
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How did those end up working for you? The version I have work very well.. other than being a colder color, they are very effective in lighting up the way, better than original.
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I started with wanting to just replace my coolant, oil and clean some sensors, but then I went nuts. I couldn't stop digging in further and further, trying to clean up and replace all the gaskets I've never touched yet.. This is what it became:
Drained coolant
Removed throttle body
Removed upper / lower intake manifold
Cleaned upper and lower intake manifold inside and out, as well as IAC and EGR (wire brushes on a drill)
Replaced water pump with new mounting hardware and seal (ACDelco 252-694 + Dorman 902-803 + Fel-Pro 35351)
Replaced thermostat and seals (Stant 45849) + Fel-Pro 35608 + Fel-Pro 35126Flushed heater core and radiator (Prestone AS105)
Replaced heater core and bypass hoses (ACDelco 18118L + ACDelco 14066S + Dayco 71376 + Dayco 88358)
Replaced Upper and lower radiator hoses (Gates 21714 + Dayco 71297)
Replaced PCV valve (ACDelco CV899C)
Replaced intake manifold gaskets (Fel-Pro MS94066)
Replaced throttle body adapter gasket (Fel-Pro 70257)Replaced injector o-rings.
Repainted intake manifoldRemoved HVAC fan and control module, cleaned out debris (surprisingly clean inside)
Inspect Evap. (again, shocking clean on this side.)
Reassembled everything above.
Drained oil.
Replaced oil level sensor (Was acting up.)
Replaced oil pan seal and added copper RTV (warped, prone to leaks)I'll take more pics of it finished soon. I mostly just did all this because I just felt like digging in to see how the top half was doing. I used an endoscopic camera to look down at the valves as best I could. Most things were not so bad, so I can't claim this work was needed.. though I do feel better seeing for myself how things are looking all around.
Those injectors are gen 3 Bosch, and in previous threads I raised questions about why these may be throwing off the MPG calculations and speculating that the volume on these per pulse-width is greater than the originals.. well I've confirmed that is true. I'd need to likely go down to 19lb injectors to make it match. I also verified the spray-pattern is cone, which should be alright for this kind of plenum, so I'm going to keep them.
Thanks.
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Maybe mine is just a bit poorly formed. I'd much prefer the original design, oh well. Thanks.
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Should be an easy one I'd think. I bought the two recommended products (Dayco 71297 (upper) and Gates 21714 (lower) and only the lower one fits. The upper is quite different and doesn't seem to come close to being the right shape. Anyone have experience with sourcing the right one? Attached shows the Dayco vs the original. Thanks.
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On 3/31/2018 at 8:27 PM, Cargirl said:
Hi, it's one of those things that actually takes a fair bit of experience to have a really nice result. I'm very big on doing things myself, but this is one thing my research tells me to let a pro do it. It's very tricky, even for a pro it takes a lot of time. That's right, regarding locations, those would be the most important places.
On 3/31/2018 at 8:27 PM, Cargirl said:I am interested in the XPel process. Do you take it to a shop and get it installed or is this something you can do by yourself? It sounds like you do the whole hood, the fenders and the headlight buckets?
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Thanks! I've really tried over these past 15 years to slowly make it the best I can.
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Did Car Pro Cquartz coating, after intense cleaning, paint correction, etc. It's hard to make it look better in photos since it already looked so shiny in those, but in person the difference is very obvious. This car was freshly painted/restored in 2012, so the paint was already in very good shape.
I did not apply Cquartz to the hood or fenders, because I'm going to cover those in Xpel paint protection film. I did this to my new Miata RF, and the results are amazing.. you cannot tell it is there, and the protection gives such a peace of mind. Unfortunately I had the Reatta painted in California, which meant thin weak water based paint (regulations) ; so it chips very easily.. Xpel is expensive but cheaper than repainting. Once you have it, only larger rocks or anything can do damage, generally.
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20 hours ago, Imperial62 said:
OK that's Steve. Don't do that. He has a SS badge for $1000. Get a very nice set from Marck Barker of East Coast Reatta. You can get what is described as a nice set off ebay - maybe for a little less - but Marck is a Reatta expert and would not chance his reputation, you will be happy.
Sounds good, thanks!
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That price is not unreasonable when you consider how rare they are, but it's Steve and now as he's banned I can freely say, I hope, that guy thinks he is always right about everything and I won't do business with him.
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Yep, only so many of those around anywhere... I know this will cost quite a bit.. I have a restored 1989 that is gorgeous.. check out my other threads to find what I had done.. The only thing that doesn't look really nice at this point are my wheel center caps. A big contrast to my restored wheels which look like new.
Name your price if you have them, thanks!
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Yep that's it. Barney let me know where they go, up above. So I am all set. Thanks y'all.
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I actually did send him the photo, and he seemed to just ignore it, and continue talking about how I said I have a Reatta S. heh heh.
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19 minutes ago, Fox W. said:
Hm, bought these, I should have checked the picture better because only realized on arrival that they are incorrect. The seller is ok taking them back, but is asserting relentlessly that I am wrong and that these fit the 1989 Buick Reatta. Baahh? I do wonder what car these -do- go to though.
Picture of mine on the left, vs theirs on the right.
His message to me "OURS IS A 1989 REATTA IT SHOULD FIT !!!!! I KNOW I BEEN IN THE BUSINESS FOR 35 YEARS AND IM THE OWNER, i not going to argue with u OVER SOMETHING I KNOW ... just send it back NO PROBLEM or double ck and be suere u are installing it right.. FYI yr case open says S in the description"
What he means by 'S' is that I had said "It is very different and larger than the Reatta's" ; but the Ebay messaging system wrote it as "It is very different and larger than the Reatta s" stripping out the apostrophe.. so for the rest of the conversation he was convinced I own a "Reatta S" and that it is my fault for buying a part for the wrong model.
Hehehe.. What can ya do.
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10 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:
I have some and they will fit.. Email me if interested lemke1044@aol.com
Thanks, will do.
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Hm, bought these, I should have checked the picture better because only realized on arrival that they are incorrect. The seller is ok taking them back, but is asserting relentlessly that I am wrong and that these fit the 1989 Buick Reatta. Baahh? I do wonder what car these -do- go to though.
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7 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:
Thank you. It didn't used to look like that; when I first bought the car, brought it home- it was a basket case for a while, got it running and daily driving- then the nose of the transmission cracked- because of a bad support mount.
A Slideshow-video of all this is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssjslu9xdWg
Since I rarely make "videos" the photos are all before & after, and annotated, explaining all work done.
Reminds me of my rear suspension support frame repair:
Afterward, I had it sent off to be blasted and then powder coated. I've been tackling the front now, as my car spent most of its life in MA. Somehow I've been lucky, it seems oil protected a lot of it.. all 6 cradle bolts came out without issue and minimal evidence of rust.
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7 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:
Thank you. It didn't used to look like that; when I first bought the car, brought it home- it was a basket case for a while, got it running and daily driving- then the nose of the transmission cracked- because of a bad support mount.
A Slideshow-video of all this is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssjslu9xdWg
Since I rarely make "videos" the photos are all before & after, and annotated, explaining all work done.
Fantastic video, very helpful. I never would have figured the body would rust out that badly where the cradle subframe bolts up.
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Surely you've seen that I attach good pictures to many of my posts, such as the turn-signal polishing one.
Canon 80D is what I usually use. And I've certainly noticed and appreciated how much you make use of images and sideshows, it's a huge benefit and very helpful.
However this is a standardized term, as I learned just yesterday. Google will show many results. It's basically a nut with an integrated washer that is on a sleeve bearing and can spin independently of the nut.
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I tried finding this specific bit of info to no avail. I replaced my passenger headlamp motor recently, and I didn't torque down the nut that holds the bell crank to the motor output shaft well enough, so it came loose and now I'm back in there again. This time I realized that I have a spare 'free spinning washer nut' that was in the wrong place (holding painted cover on) ; I am pretty sure one of the two belongs on the top-end of the crank-arm. But where does the other go? I checked around and I see people using what looks like a normal nut/washer (new and bright silver) to hold the bell-crank to the motor shaft..
Thanks.
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On 3/7/2017 at 5:27 PM, bgl said:
Hello
Does anyone else's Reatta feel like when you want to turn, that the car wants to go straight. I know it does want to go straight, but I mean that the feel is a bit more than normal to turn. Is this a trait of the car, or possibly some type of mechanical issue?
Thanks!
I used to get this sensation when coming down a highway quite fast while it turned quite a bit.. Every since having almost all of my suspension replaced it has been noticeably better. In the end, it's a really heavy car with a suspension that has a lot of travel. I guess it's hard to answer if this is normal unless I knew what you were comparing to, what sort of roads/driving and speeds. I used to feel the Reatta was 'floaty' but again it has improved a lot and now I think it's pretty darn good for its weight and comfort.
It would be nice to have help for sure.
89 Upper radiator hose replacement?
in Buick Reatta
Posted
I was mistaken, the Dayco 71297 does indeed fit, it just, as people noted, runs a more direct path over the exhaust manifold shield. Nothing wrong with that from what I see, it's just maybe somewhat aesthetically less pleasing. I used my original because it was still in good shape. The Dayco 71297 will work though, and I'm keeping mine for future use. Thank you Ronnie! You help us so much and I hope you know that it's highly appreciated.