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RobertWS

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  1. Ok, I owe all of you an apology. I truly believed that I had the very last Reatta tail light lens in the world. I stand corrected. We know now that there are at least five more. If anybody out there has any interest, I'm open to offers.
  2. Ok, I owe all of you an apology. I truly believed that I had the very last Reatta tail light lens in the world. I stand corrected. We know now that there are at least five more. If anybody out there has any interest, I'm open to offers.
  3. You're right, this isn't for Reattas that are driver for pleasure, rather for ones that are painstakingly restored and kept in a climate controlled storage area until displayed in a car show.
  4. Marck This is exactly part " 16507512 which is the outer clear lens.
  5. NOS Reatta Tail Light Lens for sale. New - Never Installed - Perfectly Clear Lens Fits 88,89,90 and 91 Reattas This is the focal point of any Reatta. This is not for a daily driver. This is for a "show" car. Firm price of $5,000 plus shipping. There is probably not another one of these in existence......
  6. NOS Reatta Tail Light Lens for sale. New - Never Installed - Perfectly Clear Lens Fits 88,89,90 and 91 Reattas This is the focal point of any Reatta. This is not for a daily driver. This is for a "show" car. Firm price of $5,000 plus shipping. There is probably not another one of these in existence......
  7. can I get an opinion on what brand of fuel pump to buy I don't want to do this replacement a third time....... Thanks
  8. I had a problem with the door check mechanism. It was very noisy and creaked when opening and closing. I didn't fix the problem, but I found that the bearing in the mechanism that rolls against the slotted follower that stops the door at some point before max open had rusted and there was no bearing left. My description of the parts may not be correct. My temporary solution was to remove the bearing by forcing the spring away and lifting the bearing off of the pivot. If anybody has a source for the bearings, I would appreciate knowing. Robert
  9. What are the physical differences in seat appearance and mounting characteristics? Can I put an 89 into a 90 without any mechanical problems or cosmetic differences?
  10. I diagnosed the problem to the point where it appeared that an ABS control module failure could be the only other conclusion. With the help of a replacement from Jim Finn, the yellow light problem has been fixed. Thanks for all of the help from the discussion group. Robert
  11. I diagnosed the problem to the point where it appeared that an ABS control module failure could be the only other conclusion. With the help of a replacement from Jim Finn, the yellow light problem has been fixed. Thanks for all of the help from the discussiob group. Robert
  12. There is no contact in the pin G hole. There is a contact in the pin H hole connected to a tan wire. When following the procedure, the antilock light never goes out, never blinks, never does anything but stay on continuous. I have also observed that the main relay is never energized. Any thoughts...... Thanks Robert
  13. Do you mean that after I jumper A & H with the ignition off, that I read the codes without ever turning the ignition back on????? The diagram in the FSM shows a 4 second delay with the antilock light on after turning the key on before the codes begin to readout. I'm confused. Thanks, Robert
  14. I'm trying to get the diagnostic codes, but the antilock light stays on continuously after entering diagnostic mode by jumpering pins A and H. The diagnostic info suggests that I can't get the codes if I have a continuous light. How do I get beyond this? Thanks Robert
  15. Computer in the trunk is there and connected..... Tried jumpering the brake fluid level switch - no effect.... I looked at all of the fuse descriptions and could find none marked ABS, Are there fuses somewhere other than the fuse blocks? The delay in the red light going out has not reoccured lately. The only problem is a continuous yellow light. I'm confused about reading the ALDL codes. In one place it says to jumper pin "B" to ground to get the ALDL codes. In another place it says to jumper pin "H" to ground to get the ALDL codes. It appears like jumpering pin "H" to ground will give ALDL codes for ABS diagnostics....Is this what I should do? Thanks again for all the time and effort to get me straightened out Robert
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