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Found 9 results

  1. Please follow the "Old Carb Doctor" hyperlink below to read all about our services. Link includes: -- Detailed description of services; -- Starting prices; -- Current estimated trun-around time; -- Important information about ethanol and other fuel additives; -- And more!
  2. 1955-1956 BUICK 1956-1958 CHEVROLET TRUCK V8 FUEL VACUUM PUMP 4304 MFRS. NO. 5594304 Will sell for $85, plus shipping or best offer.
  3. can I get an opinion on what brand of fuel pump to buy I don't want to do this replacement a third time....... Thanks
  4. Greetings from sunny Sacramento Calif. Started up my 64 yesterday and was tinkering around. I noticed the clear in- line fuel filter was bubbling like an aquarium! The car was running OK. I checked the clamps at the fuel pump and filter and followed the line back to the metal line at the passenger door. Everything looked fine . The rubber between the fuel pump and the metal line just mentioned is old but nothing looked cracked or leaking. The line and clamps at the gas tank are new as I had the tank re-done about 8 months ago. Before I pull the gas tank and replace the fuel line leading up to the fuel pump, can anyone tell me if what I'm seeing is normal or has had a similar problem? Thanks. John.
  5. I'm dealing with a much newer Buick than most of you are talking about but if you can help I'd sure appreciate it. I let gas sit too long in my '87 Park Avenue and the fuel pump plugged up. I have a parts car with a beautiful gas tank and very nice-looking fuel pump-sending unit. I'll put the parts car's tank in my running Park Avenue. Before doing so, however, I hooked up the nice-looking FP-sending unit to my car's wiring harness to test it. Well, according to my factory Buick manual the FP is supposed to operate for 2 seconds when I turn on the ignition. It doesn't - or at least I can't hear it from the driver's seat. And I'm not so sure about the sending unit. When I place the float in its lowest position, my dash gas gauge reads 1/4 full. When I move the float as high as it will go, the gas gauge needle buries itself far to the right of the "F" mark. Do I have a FP and bad sending unit? Does having gasoline in contact with the FP, the sending unit - or both - produce different results? Am I completely goofy in conducting the tests I am? One other question regarding the fuel pump: The manual says that by sliding the FP upward on the fuel line to which it's attached you will free the bottom of the FP from its mount and thereby be able to tilt it outward, bottom first, to remove it. True enough. But I can't move the FP high enough for the mesh filter on the bottom of it to clear the metal ring that anchors the bottom of the FP. I want to install a new filter. Any secrets here? Thanks & cheers, Curt
  6. I have a nice fuel pump that is an AC 9651(stamped on flange). It will fit 51-54 Chrysler V-8 and Desoto V-8, 52-56, also some 56 Plymouths. Check an interchange book. The pump is complete and original, but due to the new gas I would rebuild it with modern seals. It also has the air chamber( looks like a CO2 cartridge). Price is $22 + shipping. Ron Sotardi E-mail rsotardi@yahoo.com Or 520-749-8659 .<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  7. is there a thermostat and gasket i can get from a local store for my 37 plymouth sedan? i'm sure stant has to make one. the only other one i've found is from the andy biernbaum site... and that's $20! and apparently he doesn't even have gaskets, either. maybe someone can supply me with stant (or similar brand) part numbers that i can order from a local store. also, the fuel pump. is there a rebuild kit for it? i'm not sure of the condition of mine since i haven't even tried to start the car yet (it's been sitting for 2 years and i just bought it). i'm sure i'll need a bowl gasket, but i guess that's fairly easy to find. plydo has new pumps for $75, but i'm putting enough money into it right now as it is. i've also heard that 6v electric fuel pumps are not recommended. opinions? and what's a good way to clean out the fuel system before starting it? i'm already going to rebuild the carb and wash out the gas tank with fresh gas.
  8. I recharged my battery and tried to turn over Truckula yesterday -- and I am still of the opinon that the fuel pump (INSIDE the gas tank) needs to be replaced. The gauge registers a negative amount (even though I have 6 gals in the tank) and the familiar "click click" of the fuel pump (when I turn the key in the ignition before I try to start the car) is ominously SILENT... Can I install an an INLINE (near engine) fuel pump - WITHOUT removing the old fuel pump from the gas tank? I really need to get Truckula up and running. I still have the original engine (now sleeved) and 2 bbl Holley carb. Thanks
  9. I need a right rear fender for a 1931 Studebaker model 54 and a fuel pump for the 1931 205 six cylinder (rebuilable core okay)