Erndog
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Posts posted by Erndog
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7 minutes ago, Dave39MD said:
A post above says he is back at it. I had him make one for my Buick and of course it works great.
If you keep trying the puller you are using I would put the axle nut back on your axle to keep it from hitting you if it does get free.
Dave
It's still not coming off. And of course, I would never do this without the nut being installed.
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Word is he doesn't do them anymore.
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What am I doing wrong?? I got the three point puller and 9/16" couplers. I backed off the axle nut. I rigged up the puller and put more pressure on it than I care to admit. Then i whacked the end of the puller with a sledge hammer (not large, but big enough). NOTHING happened. I have been through lots of puller scenarios in the past and they always surrendered when hit under pressure. This one is acting like there is something else holding it.
I am open to any and all suggestions, as there must be more to it than I realize.
I wouldn't be surprised if an official 1930 Buick hub puller would just break my hub. It is that tight.
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Thanks! I might try that.
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Thanks, but the puller for sale is way too small and the article is for '29s, which are a different design.
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Does anyone out there have a hub puller for a 1930 Buick (60 series) that they would be willing to rent out, loan, or sell?? The threads on the hubs appear to be 16 tpi and about 3 5/16" diameter.
I have tried the beating method and it does not seem to be working.
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23 hours ago, Bloo said:
Are you in the US? If so, you could rent a tierod puller at Oreilly or Autozone that would probably fit.
Yes, and I may actually have one of those...somewhere.
Update: I bought a new tie rod puller and got it off. Took quite a few good whacks. I doubt it has been removed in 92 years.
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As I inch my way across the non-wood portions of the car I arrived at the front end. I have removed one of the front shocks and already have an issue/question that I don't see reference to in any literature. Is the bolt at the end of the shock lever a typical tapered shank or is it threaded in? The reason I ask is because I can't remove it. I tried beating it (carefully, of course), and pickle forking, but no-go. Should I try heat? Or am I going about it all wrong?
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That is a really interesting car! I remember seeing it here a long time ago. I would definitely consider restoring it. Of course, I don't know what issues it may have, but it looks like a keeper! Bear in mind that restoring it is no small effort. I have been hacking away at mine for decades and have little to show for it. That is mostly due to procrastination, frustration, and work constraints. I am retired now, so that excuse is gone. On the other hand, it is a very rewarding thing to make small advances in a restoration. A bit like a giant 3D jigsaw puzzle. The only difference is the cost and that you sometimes need to make your own puzzle pieces, often not knowing if they fit the puzzle.
I hope you decide to do it, as I would love to watch your progress.
Good luck!
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That's a great idea, but not currently an option. Bob's no longer carries them. Can't find any other supplier.
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I think I got the front pillars pretty much remade, as well as the cowl crosspiece which was also incorrect. I will follow up with some photos later.
I have been taking a break from the woodwork and doing a lot of removal of 90 years worth of dirt, grease, and unidentified muck. Also, started tackling some engine stuff.
And that brings me to a question regarding the fan. Upon removal, I discovered that the idler gear was stripped and requires replacement. I also found there to be a sheet of some sort between the gears and the fan. It needs to be replaced, but I can't tell if it is brass, fiber, gasket material or what? Any info from any of you who may have rebuilt yours? The reference material is woefully lacking when it comes to that level of detail.
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Well, since nobody could answer my question, I went ahead and test ran the starter. Works fine, so I guess, right or wrong, this is how it shall remain.
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Still hoping for details on how to get that horn button, etc., off.
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According to my Hollander, they are only interchangeable if they are both either an 80 or 90 series.
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I just finished going through my starter and managed to get it all back together with one possible exception. The engaging lever bolt arrangement doesn't seem quite right and I can't find details on it anywhere. From the head of the bolt toward the other end, I have assembled as follows: bolt head, metal shroud thing, felt washer, lever, large thin metal flat washer, casing, lock washer, nut. This seems right, but I don't think there are adequate threads exposed at the end. When I tighten the nut enough to have any threads showing the lever is too tight. If it is correct, should I just back it off a bit?
If anyone has photos or illustrations of the proper assembly of that portion of the starter, could you please post them?
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On 4/24/2022 at 4:18 PM, Erndog said:
I always find myself pouring over your pages! I also have a 30-61 (totally disassembled) and have been doing a little cleaning and painting of various drivetrain components while taking a break from wood creation. Right now I am working on the starter while the water pump paint dries. Upon disassembly I found the insides thoroughly gooked up with oily stuff and other gunk. Interestingly, it still worked when I brought the car home twenty years ago. I am trying to decide how best to clean it out.
I am always seeking info on the actual color scheme for various mechanical parts. As near as I can tell, the valve cover, spark plug cover, generator, starter, fan, and breather are to be semi-gloss black. Everything else should be the engine olive green.
However, upon removal of heavy gunk on my starter, I found that the armature section is black as expected, but the other half (gear engaging section) appears to be the engine color. I have no reason to suspect that this is not original. But, I have never seen a photo showing this color scheme.
Well, I bit the bullet and painted the rear section black, like everyone else. Then, minutes later, I came across a Buick factory photo of several engines still in their crates. And guess what?? The rear section of the starter is engine color-olive green. I guess I will redo my paint.
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Looks great!
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On 5/30/2020 at 2:11 PM, 38Buick 80C said:
Played with the dash wiring. The harness is older repro, never used. I think it is a Harnesses Unlimited harness and Paul sent me his numbering system, but it doesn't match perfect. I think I have it all sorted and matched the numbers and wire colors up and renumbered his cheat sheet. I have a RI Harness cheat sheet too but it is very different.
I also took the opportunity to do the coil to distributor wire.
I always find myself pouring over your pages! I also have a 30-61 (totally disassembled) and have been doing a little cleaning and painting of various drivetrain components while taking a break from wood creation. Right now I am working on the starter while the water pump paint dries. Upon disassembly I found the insides thoroughly gooked up with oily stuff and other gunk. Interestingly, it still worked when I brought the car home twenty years ago. I am trying to decide how best to clean it out.
I am always seeking info on the actual color scheme for various mechanical parts. As near as I can tell, the valve cover, spark plug cover, generator, starter, fan, and breather are to be semi-gloss black. Everything else should be the engine olive green.
However, upon removal of heavy gunk on my starter, I found that the armature section is black as expected, but the other half (gear engaging section) appears to be the engine color. I have no reason to suspect that this is not original. But, I have never seen a photo showing this color scheme.
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1 hour ago, Buick35 said:
Pictures would be helpfull.I recently removed mine from my 35 40 series and it wasn't too difficult.After I gained access to the large nut securing the wheel I loosened it but left in on enough as to not damage the threads and used a large hammer and brass punch on the shaft while keeping pressure on the back of the wheel with my legs until it moved.My horn button had to first be removed by twisting it counterclockwise while pushing it down along with the wire that's at the bottom of the steering colom.Greg.
Thanks. Yes, pictures would be awesome. I tried the pushing the horn button and turning thing, but doesn't seem to do anything.
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Before I attempt to remove the steering wheel from my 30-61, I would like to solicit advice/instructions on exactly how to proceed, and/or any warnings or experiences. I have seen several topics about steering wheel issues, but not the actual removal from the column, etc. The books don't really address it very well, either, from what I've seen.
Thanks in advance.
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So. looking at things again, if I remove the steering column I am still either going to need to remove the gear shift and emergency brake, or lift it over all that anyway.
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Thanks for the info! Great photos. Your car is quite a bit earlier than mine, but I will assume the steering situation should be similar.
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PWG, that is beautiful work! I am going back through forum entries for reference and "re-found" this gem.
I have been restoring a completely rotted 30-61 for more years than I care to admit. Sometimes I go years without doing a thing, others I go like crazy. I have yet to finish with remaking ALL of the wood (from ash). However, I am 95% done.
I have recently been trying to finish up the front hinge pillars and crossbar. The hinge pillars were extremely rotted, but I believe I made fairly faithful reproductions. I do need to make some adjustments to the curve on the crossbar, though. This is a second go-round. I made all three pieces years ago, quite nicely. However, I noticed last year some major flaws in each and had to start over.
I have a question for you that is really perplexing me.
How did you remount the cowl section to the car?? I assume the best method is to attach the cowl assembly to the main sill assembly and then the whole shibang to the frame. I understand that I can probably finagle the cowl past the pillars without too much damage (?) while "creating" the cowl assembly.
But then, how do you get all this onto the frame without removing the steering column? Or can you? Does the steering wheel need to be removed if you can? And to remove the steering column, it looks like the engine must be removed first. Ugh!
Advice??
I welcome input from anyone else on this, too!
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1 hour ago, Erndog said:
Seems I read somewhere that Fisher used some type of asphalt-based preservative. Having a hard time finding where I saw that.
I found it. In the 1931 Buick Fisher Body Manual on pg 13, under "Installing New Wood Parts", it says:
"The wooden frame work of the body when assembled is sprayed with an asphalt paint. This paint impregnates the wood and acts as a preservative by preventing moisture from penetrating the wood. When replacing any of the wood parts they should be given a coating of good quality asphalt paint."
I would imagine Overland did something similar, if not the exact same.
Hub Puller for 1930 60 Series Buick
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
So I tried leaving tension on it overnight. I tried heat on the hub with tension and pounding. I sprayed with penetrating oil (questionable). Still not a d*m* thing. I am concerned about stressing the lug bolts. Is it better to limit heating to just the hub, the shaft, or both? I am convinced that a proper Buick hub puller that screws onto the hub would either break the hub or strip those threads, considering how tight this ^%@ thing is.