Erndog
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Posts posted by Erndog
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I finally rejuvenated the valve train area and got everything there reinstalled. Looks happier, I think. After I make a couple cork gaskets I will put those side panels back on. Should be ready for the re-installation of the generator/distributor and the water pump, too. Next stop, oil pan territory.
Before
After
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I got the generator cleaned up and ready to go. Bought a new cap and rotor from RockAuto. They will do fine for the time being. Also had to remove the rocker shaft again and all the pushrods. That's because I decided the block really needs to be painted in that area. Minor setback. I have painted the exhaust manifold heat-proof silver, which is better than the 90 year old shade of rust, but am wondering if it should be black, like the 1929 judging criteria states.
Before
After (camera angle makes for a pretty robust distributor!)
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While reinstalling the rocker shaft I noticed the nuts seem to be some type of jam nuts. I tried to verify with the parts book, but no mention of them. Seems redundant since all of the nuts and bolts involved use lock washers. Good place to mention that I am using new lockwashers everywhere. I was cleaning and reusing the old ones to be authentic, but I would rather have something I know will be helpful. I am keeping all the old washers for posterity. They have weird reeded edges.
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While I wait for my head bolt thread sealant to arrive, I have decided to tackle the generator/distributor assembly. Since the car ran when I got it 20 years ago, I don't expect any major issues. I will answer them as I find them.
I started by removing the unit from the engine. Today's project was the distributor. I did a total disassembly, clean-up, and reassembly.
Lots of neglect over the years
The points still look good and only required a little refacing with crocus cloth.
Weights were also in fine shape.
I cleaned up everything as best I could.
And then reassembled.
I forgot to clean up the gear. I'll be sure to do that before I reinstall it.
Looks a lot prettier in person. Close-ups are so cruel.
Next, I shall tackle the generator.
I have also finished cleaning and repainting the engine block, inspected and cleaned up all the push-rod assemblies, reinstalled them, and repainted the valve cover and spark plug cover. Photos to follow after I get the head torqued and rockers on. Next part on engine after the generator and valve train will be dropping the pan. I suspect I will not like what I find. That is because when I was redoing the left side of the engine I tried to remove the Y-fitting for the oil line. After several turns with no progress I researched a little and then remembered that there is an oil line in the sump that is connected to it. I have a terrible feeling that I will find I have twisted that oil line all to hell. Wish me luck.
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2 hours ago, Jim Nelson said:
These need to be a minimum of 'grade 5' for strength. ( 3 pointed star on the top. Grade 8 have a 6 pointed star on top ). I always use 'grade 8' bolts which are the strongest. (With split lock washers. ).
BTW, if the bolt heads do not have any marks then they will be grade 2 which is a no-no. Not strong enough ! ! I use stainless grade 5 min. for the three bolts that hold the water pump. Same on the lock washers.They're grade 8's.
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0I acquired 15 bolts from McMaster-Carr. They weren't very expensive and appear to be an exact match. 5 1/4" long vs the original 5 5/32", but should work fine.
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All excellent suggestions. I might just leave well enough alone, as there don't seem to be any issues with them right now. Just wanted to inspect and clean them up.
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Str8-8-Dave,
That's why I am asking. I removed those retainers and the barrels still don't want to come out. I'll shoot some penetrent and let them sit and see what happens.
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I see a 1930 Parts Book for 50 and 60 series! Is there even such a thing? Or is it for Marquettes? I have the big 1918-1932 Parts Book, but this gem would be nice to have.
On 4/8/2022 at 6:03 AM, Leif Holmberg said:Mark Shaw here are the parts book page with the heat riser.I have some books to look at if I want to search on 1920s Buick.
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Are we talking about the same kind of lifters? These are the ones that are roller lifters, housed in an outer barrel, which by design prevents the roller lifter from being removed by itself.
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So rather than starting multiple threads for numerous Buick engine-related questions, I have decided it would be better to make a topic where they can conglomerate for easier perusal and keep the website cleaner. (after the fact).
First off, can anyone tell me exactly how to remove the roller lifter "assemblies" from the engine? I have all the pushrods out and it seems the assemblies should lift out, but they don't want to cooperate. I have removed them from a 1929 engine successfully, but that was nearly 50 years ago. What am I doing wrong?
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I figured that while I'm waiting to have my hub puller manufactured I should go ahead and swap the head out with one I had in California. The existing head has several cracks in the floor under the rocker shaft. I have never seen cracks in that part of a head before, but figure it can't be good. I have a 29-46S on our ranch in California that I will probably never get around to restoring, so after verifying it uses the exact same head, I crated it up and shipped it to Virginia...about 7 or 8 years ago. While sitting it seemed to have acquired a bit of surface rust that required cleaning up. After that I was lucky enough to have my son visit and put him to good use. I had an old NOS head gasket that I cleaned up to use, even though the old one still looks pretty good...especially considering the current price of same! I haven't bolted it down yet, as I still need to order some new bolts from McMaster-Carr. The originals are 7/16x5 5/32-14, but I think 5 1/4" should be fine.
Replacement head in crate
In Situ
Slightly improved
Cleaned and reinstalled valves
Recipient Subject
My son chasing threads while they are still accessible. (Big son/tiny engine is an optical illusion. Looks like a model of the engine.)
Head in place. Now on to the next project!
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Thanks for the rapid response! I agree. Much of the engine remained the same for several years.
One more question:
Are the valve lifter assemblies (whole part that contains the roller lifter section) removable via the side panel access? Seems like they should be, but not cooperating with reasonable persuasion.
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I have some updates to make, but first I have an important question before I ruin something.
Is the generator removed with the drive gear attached, or does it need to be removed first??
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Does anyone sell the mating gears for a 30? (the ones on the column)
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How does one remove the lifter assembly, i.e. roller plunger and assembly?
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Interesting way to do the roof. Might have to try that if I ever get that far.
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Well, I got a little further today. I fixed my overpainting mistake and got things back together. I need to take care of some stuff for a couple weeks, so it's going to have to be enough for now.
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Does anyone out there have a good source for head bolts?
I have a 1930 Master engine that needs new headbolts. They appear to be 7/16 x 5 1/4 14 tpi.
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So, yesterday I removed and started in on the Front Brake Cross Shaft. I took it all apart, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Unfortunately, I was over-zealous with some of the paint and had to sand it down to reinstall some of the parts. Therefore I will not post the finished Cross Shaft at this time. I still need to clean up and repaint that area of the frame before installing it anyway. Today's project will be "cleaning up" my garage a bit before my machinist comes over to take some additional needed measurements for the hub puller.
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Today's project was the Handbrake Crosstube. I took it all apart, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Before I reinstall it I will need to remove and do the same to the Front Brake Crosstube, and clean and paint that portion of the frame.
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Update:
I did the only things I could think of: heat and mechanical agitation, and lots of it. I actually sprayed penetrant at the base of the head in the hopes that it would find its way down the bolt to the threads. Totally useless, of course. I finally got about 1/2 degree of rotation, so I cycled back and forth repeatedly, took a tiny bit more, repeated several times, ran back in, started over, and repeated the whole process over and over.
I think I dodged a big bullet here! Take a look at the photos. It sure looks like the bolt has some stretch in it, nearing ductile failure. Might be erosion, too.
New question: Anyone have a good source for new head bolts?
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Thanks. I appreciate the suggestion, but yeah, it's a long bolt and it would probably make it tighter. The only thing I was thinking with the heat was that it may expand the two parts differentially enough to break things loose.
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I have one head bolt that is not happy. It feels to me like it is a strong candidate for breaking. All the others seem to have popped loose, though I haven't completed their removal yet. The one bolt makes me pretty nervous, as I have been down that road before.
Any suggestions for removing the bolt without breaking it? I have struck it numerous times, end-on, with a small sledge hammer and a 1/2" drive extension upside down as a drift (hugs the contour of the head nicely). Obviously, that is in the hopes of jarring rust loose on the threads. I also applied heat to the head with little effect, but didn't expect much, since the bolt is pretty long and the issue is not at the head. Should I try an air hammer on it? Or is that too violent?
Update:
1924-45 Engine Colors
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Should the 1930 Engine Compartment/Engine colors be the same as the 1929 colors? Those are listed in the judging material, but I can't find any info on the 1930's and it seems every one does it differently.