Erndog
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Posts posted by Erndog
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This is the original one on my 1930-61.
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Any ideas about the 1930 models?
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Have you verified that there is no obstruction in the tank itself? I have had junk in the tank that will get sucked down and block the pick up tube, only to float away after it finished frustrating. Then repeat.
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Maybe put some black paper in there and see what it looks like.
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27 minutes ago, 1930 Kram66 said:
First job back after a short break for the holidays was fitting the rear guards/fenders. I'm undecided about leaving body colour on the inside of the guards/fenders - opinion's welcome.
Next was fitting and wiring up the tail lamp/number plate assembly.
Lastly the spare tyre holder and bumper bar brackets were fitted.
Cheers Mark.
I think I would paint the wheel wells black. It just looks a little odd. Not sure what they did originally.
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7 hours ago, EmTee said:
Not the same.
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4 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:
That's the first place I looked. Either I am blind or they don't carry them.
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8 minutes ago, Fordy said:
I have done similar ones before where they are dismantled by unsoldering the connector contacts that mate and pass voltage to the matching part. I then used new wire and re se soldered them with some help from a pal who kept the spring depressed until it cooled enough to release.
Steve
The one pictured with the springs isn't going to be too much of a challenge. Its the other two I am confused about. As near as I can tell, they are solid, i.e. no springs.
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I bought a couple of harnesses from RIW and discovered that they don't come with the 2 pin plugs at the ends for the lights, nor the metal protector tees.
I either need to replace my existing plugs or learn how to dissect them successfully. The wires really aren't in a condition that I would feel good about splicing to.
Can anyone out there either educate me on these plugs or direct me to some replacements?
The spring loaded one is probably doable...maybe. It's the others I am concerned about.
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5 hours ago, ramair said:
Call Rootleib hoods in Turlock ca. they specialize in antique car sheet metal fabrication, they are well know for their complete model T speedster kits, but they make most everything. A few years ago they made a very complicated louvered inner fender panel for my 39 Packard twelve and they also built me a new hood for my 1936 GMC, it fits perfectly and the price was very reasonable
I would, but I am in Virginia.
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I have tried for years to locate replacement side aprons for my 30-61 with no results.
Does anyone out there know of anyplace capable of recreating a set?
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1 hour ago, keiser31 said:
A reprint I got back in about 1970-71. I think they still print them.
Who made it?
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On 10/28/2023 at 4:00 PM, keiser31 said:
This book would probably be a good one to obtain for the wood work....
Wow!
Is that an original body manual? I bought a reprint decades ago and all the illustrations are so dark you can barely tell what you're looking at.
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Right. I am aware of scammers and do due diligence.
Thanks!
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Looking for one or both side aprons for a Buick 30-61
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Solved!
Disengaging the clutch made zero difference, most likely due to stuck clutch plates or something. However, I talked my wife into giving me a hand by prying between the two sliding gears while I rotated the engine by hand. Remarkably, it worked great!
Thanks for rapid responses and good info. It was right on the money.
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8 minutes ago, Roger Barrett said:
It sounds like you have the transmission in two gears at once. With the clutch released you should be able to pry one and then both of the gears into neutral. Will your engine turn over if you hold the clutch released with a stick, or a helper?
I can turn the engine by hand. Not sure if I can release the clutch and keep it released, but I'll try that. I know the previous owner complained of the clutch sticking.
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I have gotten myself into a bit of a "jam" with my transmission.
Given:
The "car" is in chassis mode right now on jack stands.
Engine is probably runable, but doesn't yet.
Scenario:
I decided it was time to change the gear oil in my transmission, which hasn't seen a road in close to 50 years. When I removed the drain plug, about 1/2 gallon of water came out, followed by a bit of oil. I pulled off the top and found it to be as expected, but no rust. I cleaned it out and refilled it with gear oil. I then rotated the rear wheels to move some gear oil around. I moved the low/reverse sliding gear to different positions and repeated several times. With the low/reverse sliding gear disengaged, I moved the high/intermediate sliding gear and did the same. I then hand cranked the engine to circulate gear oil around the counter-shaft gears and clutch gear. This all went rather well.
However, I then decided it would be good to engage the reverse gear and repeat. Not really knowing what I was doing, I also slid the high/intermediate sliding gear back against the low/reverse sliding gear and over the low counter-shaft gear (not touching, I think).
Issue:
I now have the low/reverse sliding gear engaged with the reverse gear and the high/intermediate sliding gear against it. For some reason, I can not move the high/intermediate sliding gear back to its normal area. I have tried hand cranking the engine little bits in the hope that it will align something, and also tried bumping the rear wheel (one stationary) to no avail. As a matter of fact, I can't move the rear wheel because something is firmly locking up in the transmission.
Any advice?
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Not sure I'm willing to pack it with grease just yet, when it is designed for a liquid. I will keep corn head grease in mind, though.
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I filled my steering gear with 90w gear oil after decades of non-use. Of course, it promptly started oozing out to the floor. Obviously, the seal is old and shot. Does anyone have a source for new seals, or any kind of rebuild kit?
The parts book has the seal listed as Part# 258873 Roller shaft grease retaining washer-1st Type, or 259809, 2nd Type.
I don't see any reference to a seal, per say, other than felt for earlier years. And the nomenclature implies that the part is not really a seal. And I have no idea what Type 1 or 2 is.
There is that spring loaded cork gasket on the shaft outside the frame, but I don't think that does much other than keep out dirt.
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That is impressive. Thanks!
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Wow, thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
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Unfortunately, I have yet to find a source for replacements. They are Hyatt WRA-211, SWOR-211, and SWIR-211.
The left assembly was in pretty good shape. The right assembly would never be used if I had a choice.
My 1931 Buick project- the saga begins...
in Me and My Buick
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Excellent write-up!
And I'm sure your wife appreciates you using her nice countertops.