V.Milke

I know this sounds like a dumb question but I really have no idea as to where it went originally... Can somebody tell me how the throttle return springs looks like and from where to where is it supposed to go? Currently my throttle pedal sits very close to the floor and I "adapted" a spring as I cannot locate where the original is supposed to go. I found a piece of something that may be it, but if it is, it does not look like a regular coiled spring that when pulled it returns, but more like a spring that when turned, returns. Any help? Thanks Victor.

Thanks Bill and Peecher. Locksmith just left. He already cut the door key and he took the glove box lock to make key, and the ignition switch (I got the switch from another car) to make it's combination the same as the door key he just made. He says it looks tough to dismantle, so he took it with him to his shop. Victor.

I just got a set of original key blanks for my 1941 Continental. Both fit all of the locks, but I need to know which one is for what. I'm lousy at descriptions, but I think whoever has seen them will understand if I say one of them has angled lines and only one curve on top, while the other one is made entirely of curves, and sort of looks like a flower petal. Can somebody tell me which one is supposed to open what locks? I'd like to cut them correctly for what they were meant to open. Thanks, Victor

Thanks Bill. Got it. Victor.

Thanks Bill and Rolf for your responses. I have heard very good words about the Melling pump, but I will try to do my homework and ask around before I decide myself for it.

Bill: Thanks for your response. According to your description, I don't need to be too concerned, as oil pressure rises as soon as I step a little on the gas to about 15 pounds. However, I would feel better if oil pressure at idle would show at least 5 pounds or so. You mention the high volume pumps. Are there any high pressure pumps? Thanks and Merry Christmas Victor.

My '41 Continental's gage shows almost 50 pounds of oil pressure when I start it, but they gradually go down as the engine heats up. After a good while, oil pressure at idle is cero, but as soon as I step a very little on the gas pedal, it goes up again to about 15. Is this something to be concerned? A second question would be: I just took the oil pan off and cleaned everything, including the fuel pump, which looks fine but shows a little wear marks. I remember reading in the past of a replacement for the oil pump which would rise oil pressure in the engine. Can somebody tell me if such a replacement exists and where to find it? Thanks, Victor.

Can anybody tell me how to do it? I am going crazy trying to remove the steering wheel on my 1941 Continental, and I can't even remove the horn ring. Thanks, Victor

Thanks everybody for the answers. Apparently my pump feels as it is backwards, in other words, but I made the lines according to the pictures I got. The vaccum line goes out from the manifold front part, and down into the upper part of the pump. The other side of the pump has a long line that goes near the engine, all the way back and up along the firewall, to be connected by a rubber hose to the wiper motor. Is it possible my upper part of the fuel pump has it's check valves inverted? Just guessing, as I don't even have an idea if it uses checks as in the fuel part. Thanks, Victor.

Ok, I know, I know... but if by any chance anybody knows of one for sale, please drop me a line Victor. vmilke@paniplus.com.mx

I have a problem with my 1950 convertible wipers. The wiper motor used to be connected directy to the manifold (incorrectly), and I guess vacuum was great and they worked decently. I just made the new lines as they were meant to be, manifold to fuel pump and fuel pump to Wiper motor, and now they don't work. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, victor.

Hi: Can anybody help me with iformation as to how this accesory was fitted? Type of glass bottle and cap, where on the firewall was it installed, where was the button etc? Pictures would be of course very welcome, but any information would be greatly appreciated. Victor.

Come on guys! I can't believe nobody has any of these parts available? Any offers? Thanks, victor.

Jim: If it helps in any way, or better say, to reinforce what you've found, I have two cars with timing control on the steering column. First one, a 1928 Stutz, has no other timing thing, that is, only the control on the steering column. Second one, a RR 25/30, has centrifugal advance and also a steering column control. Both cars run better with the manual control in the most advance position. The RR manual states that you can start it with the timing retarded but then pull it up almost all the way for regular driving. The Stutz also starts better with timing retarded, but as soon as it starts, I push it all the way up to full advance, as the car is much happier this way, even at low speeds. Of course, I have no idea about a Duesy, but it has been and will probably remain my whole life's dream to find out and... Victor.

Hi: I have a question with which I am hoping somebody can help me with: wiring harness. Is there somebody reproducing it? My car, a 1928 BB phaeton, has an adapted one, made in color cotton braided cables, wrapped in black electrical tape. Not tremendously ugly, but I am not sure if it was supposed to go cotton covered or in metal covers. It only has metal covers going out to the lights. One other thing would be, how and where is it supposed to go through the firewall? In my particular case, in the past they grinded or made bigger one of the holes where the bolts to support the vaccum gas tank should be, and they passed the wiring harness through it. I want to install the vaccuum tank where it should but I need to move the harness, and I would like to place it where it should be. Could anybody shed some light here? Thanks. Victor

There were only two "options" regarding transmissions in 1948 and early 1949 (22nd series): 1. Electromatic clutch (described elsehwere), which used a red rubber pedal. 2. Overdrive. As far as I understand it, you could order either of them separately, or both together. Starting on middle 1949 and 1950, you also had the Ultramatic option. V.Milke

Thanks Pete. I guess that solves my doubts. I'll make the new line and conect it accordingly. Victor.

Pete: Going back to my original post, thanks for your reply. If I understand correctly, the other part of the pump not used for fuel should be used as an additional vaccumm boost for the wipers, meaning that on one side, it should conect to the line going to the wiper motor... question here is: What about the other side. The line comming into the pump should be comming from...? Thanks Victor.

If I am right, 1927 and 1929 Stutz use very different braking systems. The 1929 one has a faily modern and common hydraulic system, while 1927 uses a more complicated system with bellows and a mixture of alcohol and ?... don't recall correctly. Are you a member of the club? If so, they can put you in touch with John Grunder who is the technical advisor and a very knowledgeable guy. He has a 1929 himself. Victor.

My 1950 Super Eight has double fuel pump. The bottom part picks the fuel from the line and sends it up to the carb. My doubt is the upper part. I have no lines in or out now. Can somebody tell me what and how to do connections there? Also, where does the winshield wiper motor vaccuum line picks the vaccuum from? Right now it is conected directly to the manifold, but I am not sure if this is correct or not, and I cannot find this information on my shop mahual. Thanks for any help Victor

Can somebody tell how to take appart these knobs which you screw in to help fix the trunk rack in it's upper position? I am enclosing a picture. I am rechorming all of the trunk rack hardware and cannot take these things off. I've tried it without luck and I would not like to damage anything. Thanks for any help Victor.

Confirmed... I was finally able to see the movie "Boulevard du Rhum" filmed in 1971 and it shows a 1933 1001 Eight convertible coupe driven by Brigitte Bardot, first by itself and then on a funny car persecution. The movie is not worth much, though. Victor.

Thanks for the advice Diz. I just posted it. victor

Hi: I am looking for the following parts for my 1941 Lincoln Continental coupe: Headlight rims Turn signal lense Taillamp lenses Window crank plastic knobs Hood emblem Hood emblem V12 moulding Front bumper center small bumperette Front bumper left side bracket Front bumper left side bumperette Dash Heater Underseat heaters Tools, Tire wrench and Car Jack If anybody has any of these that could sell me, please email me directly at: vmilke@paniplus.com.mx Thanks Victor.

I absolutely agree about the 1971 and 72 Rivieras. (73 theoretically is outside the "scope" of the club) I think there are several omissions in the Packard line: 1. 1949 and 50, series 23rd, Super Deluxe Eight. Exact same looks as the Custom (save for one outside moulding around the trunk and the chrome panel on the glovebox), same long wheelbase but even better performance (due to reduce weight and the possible lack of Ultramatic transmission), and same build quality... and the leather and cloisonne hubcaps were optional equipment. 2. 1953 and 1954 Caribbean Convertibles. Top of the line convertibles with limited production. 3. 1955 and 1956 Caribbean convertible and hardtop ('56 only). Gorgeous styling. Top of the line status, modern V8, torsion bar suspension, etc. My opinion only... Victor.