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Everything posted by V.Milke

  1. A 6 volt system, if clean and well sorted out , works just fine. A key element is that all grounds should be perfectly clean, even light bulb bodies versus sockets. It is surprising how well they light up once everything is as it should. I would advise not to change to 12 volts as it will do much more harm than help. Victor
  2. Thanks! I guess I will take your route of polishing and having them painted with some chrome look alike coating. It is just that I read an old article somewhere that showed that some shop or supplier did the work even modyfing the numbers or marks to reseemble the real aluminun heads.
  3. Quite the opposite... thanks for your input! Abusing a bit: This is my choke shaft... does it look correct for the electric choke? Thanks, Victor
  4. Thank you both! By this time, I found an old copy of a second edition of the Authenticity manual and it is just as you both describe. Thanks a lot! In a nutshell, it is just as Mssr. Bwatoe describes! Thanks again! Victor
  5. Thank you, Mssr. Bwatoe! What you describe sounds like what I have,, which certainly makes me feel better, but I have copies of an old Authenticity Manual and it mentions a lever with an A (for automatic) and M (for manual) button or lever that you rotate. It also mentiones a carburator 16H-9505A designed for automatic choke, that apparently has no choke lever and no throttle kicker. Mine looks like the regular carburator for manual choke, which would make sense according to your description. So, I am guessing there were two types of electric choke control. I am glad I can operate mine manually. Victor
  6. Sounds like a great option that I will consider, thanks! But I heard somebody did the job of actually changing the original markings to ressemble the original aluminum heads. I would love to find out who does that.
  7. Thank you, Mike. I appreciate it. And do you recall if the bedford cord you ordered is the fine, medium or wide rib?
  8. Hi, One more question about 1941 Continentals... body and engine bay detailing. The car I just got had a prior restoration not done to correct standards, but the paint is still good enough to redo it, therefore I will keep it as is, and only correct details like painting bumper brackets in body color, same as the rubber between them and the body, fenderwelt and I am not yet sure which other rubber should be painted body color. Any hints? In other words, I am just doing some "patchwork" to make the car look more correct. I know I need to paint the silver lines in the wheels, among other things. While at this, I want to refinish the engine area. I understand that even the chassis, at the engine area, should be painted body color, including the brake lines. Is this correct? What happens with the chassis further inside the engine bay, like under the engine? Should it also be body color or was in only "oversprayed" at the sides when they painted the engine bay sides? I want the car to look as correct as possible. Thanks for any guidance! Victor
  9. Hi, I've heard horrors about polished (or unpolished) aluminum heads, which would be the correct type used in a 1941 Lincoln Continental but I heard about somebody doing the service of converting regular steel heads to appear to be the original polished aluminum heads, even up to disguising the part numbers. Is this the case? Can anybody let me know a bit more about it and the contact ot who does this service? Thanks, Victor
  10. Hi, I've had two 1941 Lincoln Continental coupes with two types of choke systems: My earlier car (light tan steering column) had a manual choke very easy to operate as you only pulled the knob and it directly closed or opened the carburator butterfly. My current car (a later car with maroon steering column), has what appears to be an electric choke installed on the manifold behind the carburator (that so far I don't know how it operates), but it also shows the regular manual control, but in this case with a lever underneath that when you rotate it, it apparently pulls or retracts the choke rod a bit, but I don't understand how this system should be used in conjuction with the electric choke. Can anybody shed some light as to how these type of choke should be used, both the electric and the manual override? Thanks, Victor
  11. Hi, I have a 1941 Lincoln Continental coupe. I need the original cloth and found a link to Bill Hirsch Automotive's cloth page: https://www.hirschauto.com/bedcloth.htm I don't have the original sample... but the car is maroon and had a medium brown leather and tan whipcord interior originally. 1. Would anyone venture to say which is the correct type of cloth? Fine rib or medium or wide rib? 2. And the correct tone for the tan whipcord for my car? I would appreciate any help, Victor
  12. I got the plates from KRK.... great! Beautiful work! Thanks, KRK!
  13. Mike: I got the tags and they are really fantastic. Great work, and a great service you did to the Auburn comunity by reproducing them. Thanks! Victor
  14. Hi KRK, Do you still have these plates for sale? If so, I am interested in a pair. Thanks! Victor
  15. V.Milke

    Barn Find!

    Gorgeous car!
  16. Thank you, Curti. I just sent him a message. Victor
  17. Hi Can anybody reccomend a parts supplier for 1931-33 Auburns? My 8-100A needs all of the ignition parts plus a few other items like interior door handles. Thanks, Victor
  18. Mike, Do you still have any of these tags for sale? I would like three. I will contact you directly. Victor
  19. V.Milke

    Barn Find!

    I hadn't been in the forum for a while. Gorgeous car, congratulations! Take stutzl6 advice and call him. Nobody I know knows these cars better than John!, and he is very kind on sharing his knowledge! Victor
  20. Good to hear from you, stutzl6. I wouldn't know for sure what car is under the cover, but I guess you are right! The profile appears to be that of the 4 passenger speedster. Curiously, the only pics I have seen of 1928 and later Stutz in Mexico is one sedan and a few phaetons... I haven't seen one of a speedster yet.
  21. Well, Edinmass said that "You can tell by only one clue (refering to 1931 vs 1932).........AJ, you own one, so you should figure it out"... and I never found out. So, AJ, did you? Just curious...
  22. That could be! Thanks for the information!
  23. Thank you, Marty! I will make sure to check which one I have and get the correct one, to have a complete and correct set. Victor
  24. Hi Tom, and thanks a lot for your help. Now I know what I need to look for. It appears I have one and I am only missing the other one. Victor
  25. Thank you guys. Here are pics of what my 1934 has now... I not sure if any of them is correct but I would be happy to have them at least matching... and of course very much so if correct for the year/model.