franklinman
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Posts posted by franklinman
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The round step plate was used on the 1903 Cadillac, one on each side for entrance to the front seat. The rectangular plate was used on the rear sides (not on the back) for entrance to the side entrance cars in 1905-08.
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I'm currently starting to plan for doing the top, side curtains and top boot on my '25 Roadster over the coming winter. My car still has it's original top in good condition so we're good to go there. However I have no curtains or boot to copy. If anyone has originals that I could borrow and/or photograph and measure I would be very interested. Thanks. Also need curtain door rods to copy.
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I have driven the Snake numerous times in my son's 2006 Ford GT. Wow what an experience! I have some road racing experience and the GT was a great car for that stretch of road, BUT I wouldn't even think of seriously taking it on in a 'Cuda or any other muscle car! He also has a Shelby Series 1 that I've taken over there, but while it's certainly better handling than a 'Cuda it's still too much of a muscle car type vehicle (supercharged with over 600HP) for serious road racing work.
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Here's one of a 1907 Franklin (supposedly taken in Alaska, I can't confirm that though) with a full set of curtains in place. It's the only photo I've ever seen of a '07 with curtains.
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Appears to be a 1915 model.
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Well, we made it to Dearborn, Broncos unloaded and cleaned up. Now we can relax and start having some fun!
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I’ve always run a gasket, especially with a motometer as it gives that little bit of movement for proper alignment.
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We’ll be there with at least 2 early Broncos. Both are AACA Grand National winners. We will probably have a third along for driving/cruising, my buddy’s Stroppe ambulance. Never been to this before but looking forward to it.
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It appears that you are missing the "pawl" that engages the end of the crank (similar to the part on the end of the hand starting crank) and the round disc-like piece that threads
into the hole where the crank hole cover normally is. I believe there might also have been a sort of cover over the top used during storage but I might be wrong on that one. I'll try
to look up a photo of one in my DB stuff. If you're looking to sell it I would be interested, Please PM me. Thanks
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Don't know what the fan is off of but it's not DB. Looks like someone torched the rear motor mount ring off the frame instead of unbolting it.
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13 hours ago, rocketraider said:
Curious if this is everywhere or peculiar to this area. The old Gray Ghost wagon needs paint badly, just a maintenance thing to preserve it. What I'm finding is that if a job doesn't have an insurance check attached, body shop doesn't want to talk to you. And if they will, they tell you it would be fill-in work and may take months if not years. Or have painters here just never been hungry?
Even the autobody class at the Vo-tech high school is backed up 3 years, so that's not an option like it was in 1999.
The answer to your question is simple economics. Collision work is more profitable for the body shop. That's what most are set up to do, and with good employees they can, and often do, beat the flat rate times paid by the insurance companies so in effect they can make double time on many jobs. Rust repair and all over paint jobs just don't pay as well. Also the restoration side of the game is quite different and most of their employees just aren't trained for it.
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The one on my car is a Trico unit, but it appears very much like those used on later cars so I am still wondering. Does anyone have an original on their car or a photo of one?
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Would it be possible for you to post a photo or two of this wiper motor. Is it electric (as the name implies) or vacume. I've never run across a pneumatic wiper motor. The reason for my interest is that according to various literature on the '25 DB's the special series cars did carry vacume wiper motors. Mine has a Trico brand unit but I am not positive that it is original to the car, although my car is a very original unmolested example. None of the factory literature that I've seen lists the manufacturer of the wiper motor nor it there any photo so I'm trying to document what the correct unit would be. Thanks.
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Another issue for an item as heavy as a radiator will be the attendant shipping cost(s). In the past it wasn't such a big deal but with the ever increasing cost of shipping today it is indeed a major consideration. For some things I've seen recently on eBay the shipping charge was as much, if not more, than the item was. Still, I wouldn't consider scrapping it if it is in any kind of useable condition. Someone will need/want it.
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I can remember the day because my Grandfather had passed away and that night my father, uncle and myself had the "nightshift" at the funeral home. Back in those day, at least down in Tennessee, the funeral home stayed open all night the day of the viewing and some family members were expected to be there. We all took "shifts".
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I am definitely leaning towards your problem being in the carb. Whether it's the float leaking or the needle sticking or just dirt, you need to go thru it. I would also strongly suggest that you go thru the vacuum tank and at least clean it and install new gaskets as well. All the parts you will need are available. Finally at least flush your gas tank and lines. Dirt in this system can be your worst nightmare. If the inside of your tank is dirty/rusty you need to have it cleaned and sealed. None of this work is rocket science nor expensive. Once you are done you will never have to worry about your fuel system. Another suggestion would be to try to always run ethanol-free fuel in the car. I know there have been numerous discussions on this forum and others regarding the problems with this stuff so I won't go into it here. Trust me, it's junk and you don't want it in your car. I have been forced to run it at times when touring in an area where it wasn't available, but the first thing when returning home is to drain the tank, refill with non-ethanol and run the car enough to purge what is left in the lines and carb before putting the car away. You've got a nice DB there, good luck and enjoy!
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It definitely looks DB!
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18 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
Nearly 50 years ago I was in my very early 20s and had 3 cars in a local show - fund raiser that was judged and the cars were roped off.
I was closing the right hand door of my 38 Chrysler and was asked to get away from the car.
May be five minuets later the same official saw me open the trunk on my 41 Dodge and politely asked me to follow him.
I was led to the gate and was told not to return. Holding a fist full of keys out. I told him to bring my cars out and return the $45 in entry fees
I was 12 when I joined AACA and 14 when I purchased my first antique car (a 1920 DB Touring needing full restoration, lots of lawn mowing, leaf raking and snow shoveling went into that first purchase). When it was finished it won a Senior, no Grand National at that time. Some years later I was in my early 20's and on an AACA national tour with my '13 Jeffery. One evening a bunch of us were sitting out in the parking area enjoying an adult beverage or two and discussing the days tour when another tour participant walked up and asked who owned the car. I said I did. He said he heard that the car was driven to the tour and asked if it was true and where I was from. I told him I did and it was about 100 miles. He just muttered that young people didn't have any respect for older cars and started to walk off. I stopped him and asked if he had a car on the tour and if he trailered it... I didn't know the man. He pointed out a Model A Roadster parked nearby and said "of course I trailered it". I asked where he was from and he named a town less than 25 miles away. I made no reply but one of the gathered gang made the remark that if the car wouldn't make 25 miles to the tour site how did he expect it to make 5 days touring at 100 or more miles a day? Hey, everyone has their own opinions. I wasn't about to let some narrow minded individual spoil my good time.
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Are you asking about the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the muffler or the tail pipe from the muffler back? On my ‘25 the exhaust pipe is 2” and the tailpipe is 1.5”.
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It might help if you state what kind of car(s) you're looking into. I would certainly help qualify someone that could possibly help you out. Not everyone is fully versed on all cars, but just about everyone if fairly knowledgeable on certain makes/models.
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Hi John, Could you post a copy of the flyer, or at least the date and contact info for this meet? I live about 20 minutes from G-burg and it might be something interesting to drive down to with one of the older cars. From my house I can drive to G-burg without hitting a traffic light or a 4-lane road... just all beautiful orchard country. As far as the cash prizes go, it is a different idea and I can see both pro and con. Personally, I gave up trophy hunting with my own cars years ago. They're all in boxes packed away. The only time I'm concerned with awards anymore is when we're showing one of our client's cars.
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Check with Myers Dodge Parts. They have the complete exhaust system available and they're really great folks to deal with!
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2 hours ago, edinmass said:
Time is running out on the stuff from 1 to 98 percent. I see an incredible amount of cars that seem “cheap” to what I would consider normal market prices of the recent past. Good stuff.....85-98 percentile is “ok” or soft. The top two percent are on fire. It’s interesting to see how the market is adjusting, and making valuation judgments can be difficult today. Crazy high prices are just as common as crazy low prices. Only thing for certain, my cars seem to be on the short end of the stick.........since I will probably die with what I have, I’m not overly concerned.
Like Ed, with whom I generally strongly agree, I will probably die with most of what I currently have. I have noted pretty much the same market condition(s). I attribute this mostly to the ever increasing costs of restoration, both materials and labor, we are seeing today. The cars that are in the top 2-3% will bring the money, with more buyers waiting in line. Cars needing any significant investment are generally hard sells, and won't bring the price they would have 5+ years ago. This is also why truly great preservation examples are continuing to climb in value. Owning a restoration shop, I am seeing this happening and don't see any foreseeable change for the near future. The cars that are being restored today are generally those in the top tier of the market or those being done for some sentimental reason for the individual owner who has the funds and no real need to be concerned as to the car's finished value.
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Why not show photos of what you are REALLY selling?
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I like it.
in General Discussion
Posted
I'd take the Shelby Ser. I before the Zcar! I've enjoyed quite a few miles in our son's and I can say it's a lot of fun to drive.