Turbo Loyd

[color:"blue"]Never hurts to start out with a less restrictive air cleaner, exhaust system, and reprogramming the computer. Beyond that things get expensive. One realy weak link in that car will be the automatic transmission.

[color:"blue"]So we get to see The Old Guy drive the Buick Bug Friday at high noon at Milan Dragway. That ought to be a treat . . . and only 32 years later . . .

[color:"blue"]I would imagine rubber isolators have not changed much over the years so should be avaiable. Might even try the isolators for G bodies that use coil springs in the back as well. Just a thought . .. . .

[color:"blue"]You can find the information to calculate your compression ratio at: NHRA specs for engines The formula for compression ratio is: Compression Ratio = (C / N * 16.39) / (H + G+ R + D) + 1 Where: B Bore (inches) 3.8 S Stroke (inches) 3.85 C Cubic Inch Disp. 349.3082208 N Number of Cyls 8 H Head Volume 51.00 G Head Gasket 13.84 R Piston Relief 17.30 D Deck Clearance 6.92 For: Head volume 51cc Gasket 0.02 thick Piston dish 17.3 cc Deck 0.01 from top of piston to top of block Your CR is 9.01 with std bore and 9.2 with 0.04 overbore I would use the 72 heads since they had 50 ccs instead of 51 ccs and the seats were hardened as mentioned above. The stock gasket in 72 was 0.041 inches thick reducing the CR so make sure you use the thinner gasket. I have this formula set up in an Excel file for easy use. For a copy E-mail me. For cams be sure to check with TA Performance, Postons or AMP. See Charlie Evan's cam guide at: Cam tables for 455 This will give you an idea of what is out there. The guys at AMP will be more than happy to guide you. Finally there is a Buick 350 Forum at: Small Block Tech They will help you with lots of great information and tips. According to that group the 750 cfm carb should work out fine. Sounds like a great project. The V8 board also has a Regal Forum for tips for what else to change in that Regal. Hope this helps

[color:"blue"]OldGuy of course. Joe T. was a young man back in 1971.

[color:"blue"] Not that familiar with this product, but looks like quite a bit of cable. Enough to swing to the front of the carb and pull back.

[color:"blue"]An excellent place to look for such information is: NHRA Specifications for 1977 Buick [color:"blue"]Hope this information helps. I always thought the compression ratio in the smogger years was 8.0 to 1

[color:"blue"]According to the NHRA website: http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/engine/index.html The 70 engine had 16cc dished pistons and the 72 engine had 28cc dished pistons, both heads had 59cc of volume except the 70 stage 1 had 55 cc. As Old Guys says the gross versus net evaluation method made all the HP figures look pitiful.

[color:"blue"] A Buick 350 from the 70's would be excellent. For the not so pratical a Buick 455 would even be better. Have seen a 65 Lark at the GS Nats with a Turbo Regal engine and transmission which is an excellent package for this light car.

[color:"blue"]This has been covered in the GN T-Type list. A search revealed: That V6 engine will not bolt to to the BOP bellhousings. That engine probably has the "corporate FWD" bellhousing. With the FWD block, you can use the T5 and bellhousing from an S-10 pickup or F-body with the 2.8 V6, or the 700R4 from the same type of vehicle. Do not have a clue about the motor mounts, but would assume you would have to relocate the pads once you got the transmission mounted in the back. Then custom make the drive shaft. This should not be that difficult and would make a great driver.

[color:"blue"]What you are looking for is the Buick Power Source Book. Last I knew they were still available at Tuar Corporation at (810)239-5552

[color:"blue"]Still cannot wipe the smile from the fun we had at the GS Nationals, but it is time to plan for the 100 year anniversary at Flint. Has everybody pre-registered before the June 1 deadline when the cost to show goes from $25 to $40 How many will we be seeing at the track on Friday (July 25th)

[color:"blue"]The Q&A had started out covering "A" body differentials. Now that it has expanded to "B" bodies a great resource is: V-8 Buick - A boat load of fun Hope that helps <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[color:"blue"] You might try seeing where the local enthusiasts go: Minnesota Grand National and T-Type Association (MGNTA) 12054 Robin Road Maple Grove, MN 55369 Newsletter Editor E-mail: curtc@attbi.com

[color:"blue"]I'm thinking you need to fix the internal fuel pump, and remove the external pump. Whatever you do a pressure gage that attaches to the fuel rail would be helpful to make sure your repair affords enough fuel to properly operate the engine. The internal pump may be OK with the sock filter internal to the tank collapsed and stopping fluid flow. These can easily be replaced, after dropping the tank of course. If the pump is dead it needs to be removed, and it would be easier to replace than figure out how to place the pick up filter on the end of an extender tube at the bottom of the tank.

[color:"blue"]First of all I'm glad to hear that Sonny Seal is alright, but maybe a bit sore, but Tweedy is not so good. Will really miss the yellow flying 350 powered GS. Nobody on this board went to Norwalk??

[color:"blue"]Do you know the fuel pressure? Did the car ever run right with the external pump? Did you remove the internal (to the fuel tank) fuel pump or are you trying to suck fuel through it? The car starts on the ignition module and turns over control to the ECM at about 400 RPM. When it starts does it get past this point? I know lots of questions, but these may lead to us to what we need to know.

[color:"blue"] Eleven days to go . . so many things to prepare so little time <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />

[color:"blue"]Hopefully somebody will post some news on what is happening at Norwalk this weekend. Thursday May 1st is the BPG's track rental day. [color:"green"]Friday May 2nd Buick Time Trials and Fun Races [color:"red"]Saturday May 3rd Buick Car Show [color:"orange"]Sunday May 4th - The 13th Annual Buick Race [color:"blue"]Have not been able to make it, but it would be great to hear what is going on

[color:"blue"]Indiana GSCA member Darwin Larsin at their March technical session was showing us his plastic intake and the area that eventually fails adjacent to a water passage. This allows coolent to accumulate in a void and eventually either get pulled into the intake change or into the crankcase. Neither is good. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> The supercharged intake is not plastic so is not subject to the same failure.

[color:"blue"]Roberta, have you anything new to report on dragracing at the BCA Nationals.

[color:"blue"]Try a 2 amp. It that does not work out a 3 amp should not hurt anything, but erode the factor of safety built in.

[color:"blue"] To maximize the gain you should get out of this combination you should raise the compression ratio from 8.0 to one to at least 9.0 to one or higher. Buick 350s like a lot of carburetor so the 600 cfm Holley carb will limit your output and definitely lower you mileage

[color:"blue"]Do not know if they would physically fit, but generally the larger displacement engines would have a larger combustion chamber. This would lower the compression ratio and probably lower the output. There may be issues with the size of the valves clearing the limited cylinder diameter as well. I would assume you should be able to port the heads for the 322 to obtain the goal of increased air flow in and out. You are limited by the small valves after all with all nailheads. There are new porting tricks to increase velocities through small valve heads thought. Would assume 401 and 421 engines use the same head with slight variations. Off hand I do not know of a good nailhead engine shop.

[color:"blue"]There are so many variables that it is very difficult to estimate the effect of going from 10.25 to 9.9 to 1 compression ratio. Some head work probably would off set this change. Good things to do would include: 1. Have Stage 1 valves installed 2. Perform some mild porting and polishing on the heads. 3. Select a cam to go with your objectives, and of course your gear ratio, weight of car and stall of torque convertor. 4. Open up the exhaust (headers or interior honing of manifilds with larger diameter exhaust system) and intake (aftermarket intake or interior honing with less restrictive air cleaner) to enhance the porting of the heads. A rule of thumb is 93 octane generally will support 9.3 to 1 compression, with variables such as good heads, and choice of cam allowing higher ratios. Done correctly these changes should more than offset the slight reduction in compression ratio.